BrownChicken Report post Posted February 22, 2017 I just recently bought a 111w155 for $40 (score) 1. Motor belt: It's too small I've got the servo motor I replaced the other with all the way to the top like a dummy and ordered a 38" belt. I need something longer for sure (if anyone can provide a link to a belt that's an inch or so longer!) but could it be causing some of the issue: when I barely engage the motor I hear it turn on but it won't spin. When the belt is off it'll spin at that very slow speed. 2. Timing Belt: it seems tight to turn by hand anyways, too. I blasted the needle bar and presser bars and mostly everything in that area. Even without the bars on the machine it's still ... stiff. I have the bobbin component completely dismantled too so I know it's nothing to do with the bobbin "stuff" - love my terminology? Could by chance I need to clean inside of the head in no man's land or all that scary stuff down below? Could it need a new timing belt? Belt looks Ok visually. Am I just not used to a machine like the 111? I'm confident taking apart anything to do with the bobbin and needle bar/presser bar but that other stuff.. yeesh. If anyone also has any manuals or videos for dismantling more than what I'm familiar with by all means please share! It's much much more stiff than my portable sailrite (anyone want that POS?) and my other antique machines obviously... they're made totally different being a 78-3 & 31-20 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted February 22, 2017 The timing belt if old may have formed a set somewhat. My 111 had a old belt on it and when it turned over it was very stiff, the belt eventually snapped and I realized how old and brittle it was. New belt made a world of difference. For the motor you can get the thinner belts in various lengths at the auto parts store, they usually have a large selection of the outdoor equipment belts in various lengths or do what I do and order a bunch of link belt and you can make any length you want and it gets rid of any vibration. Others will have more advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted February 22, 2017 Some servo motors have a built-in brake pad that will keep the motor from spinning unless you depress the pedal a little bit to release the brake. This brake also makes it hard to turn the handwheel unless you depress the pedal. If your motor looks like this: it will have a break pad that looks like this: When I use one of these motors, the first thing I do is remove the brake pad. Just remove the plastic cover on the left (three screws) and then you'll see an arm with that curved metal+cork brake pad that presses against a wheel. Two screws hold that pad in place. Just remove those two screws and the brake pad. If you have a different motor, the tightness may be due to gummed-up bearings from dried-up-oil-turned-varnish glue or general crud in works. I've had machines that barely turned when I started working on them. A few thorough oilings often help: drip oil everywhere you see (or suspect) parts moving against each other as you move the hand wheel. Work the hand wheel back and forth to let the oil get pulled into tight spots by capillary action. Let it sit for few hours to soak in and liquify dried up oil varnish, then repeat. Things often improve dramatically after a day or so. I sometimes spend a few days just oiling and moving the hand wheel whenever I walk past a project machine I plan to work on. If it does not improve, there may be something physically worn, or something's rubbing or touching that shouldn't (like teenagers.) For belts, try an non-big-box old-school hardware store. They sometimes have a rack of general purpose V-belts in one-inch increments. Look for size 3L (3/8" wide) and then the length you need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chuckgaudette Report post Posted February 22, 2017 Uwe, is there any downside to removing the brake? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yetibelle Report post Posted February 22, 2017 17 hours ago, BrownChicken said: I just recently bought a 111w155 for $40 (score) 1. Motor belt: It's too small I've got the servo motor I replaced the other with all the way to the top like a dummy and ordered a 38" belt. I need something longer for sure (if anyone can provide a link to a belt that's an inch or so longer!) but could it be causing some of the issue: when I barely engage the motor I hear it turn on but it won't spin. When the belt is off it'll spin at that very slow speed. 2. Timing Belt: it seems tight to turn by hand anyways, too. I blasted the needle bar and presser bars and mostly everything in that area. Even without the bars on the machine it's still ... stiff. I have the bobbin component completely dismantled too so I know it's nothing to do with the bobbin "stuff" - love my terminology? Could by chance I need to clean inside of the head in no man's land or all that scary stuff down below? Could it need a new timing belt? Belt looks Ok visually. Am I just not used to a machine like the 111? I'm confident taking apart anything to do with the bobbin and needle bar/presser bar but that other stuff.. yeesh. If anyone also has any manuals or videos for dismantling more than what I'm familiar with by all means please share! It's much much more stiff than my portable sailrite (anyone want that POS?) and my other antique machines obviously... they're made totally different being a 78-3 & 31-20 Is the machine hard to turn with the motor belt off by hand? Could be a set screw on the bottom - or the safety clutch could be popped? Anyway this is a good video about the clutch. Here is the guide for the 111 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8SsIFb6Bqz7bjBSb2Y2cjlMNGs/view Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted February 22, 2017 3 hours ago, chuckgaudette said: Uwe, is there any downside to removing the brake? None that I can see for us slow-sewing folks. If you're using the motor without the brake to drive a racehorse garment machine at 4000 stitches per minute, the machine's momentum may cause it to run on for a few stitches after you let go of the pedal. High-speed machines that need to stop on a dime the instant you let go of the pedal will need the brake pad on this motor. My count-along sewing pace does not require a brake pad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coryleif Report post Posted February 23, 2017 I've also removed all the brakes from my motors. On some, this'll cause the lever to move up, increasing the amount of pedal movement needed before engagement. I slap a piece of wood on there to tighten up the action. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
