resolene on top of supersheen?

[Boriqua]

Has anyone ever tried applying resolene on top of supersheen? Is it destined to crack? I am working on a holster and it is a fade from dark blue through purple and to oxblood. With most of these types of things I give a good spray of resolene, wait a day and apply stain if the design calls for stain. As most of you know supersheen resists stain and keeps the original cover better than does resolene. You can then use that knowledge for effect but ....

Since this is a fade I was thinking of painitng out some of the blue with supersheen with a small paint brush and allowing it to dry. Then spraying the whole design area with resolene and allowing that to dry and then applying my acrylic stain. This should keep some of the blue area very blue and allow the rest to fade and be affected by the overlay colors. But .... I have already spent a fair amount of time on the piece and am afraid that I may not get good adhesion between the supersheen and the resolene on top of it. Any thoughts or experiences most welcome.

Alex

[Mattsbagger]

Got a lot going on there Alex. Lol I read it a couple times and got it worked out but can't help you.

[billybopp]

I haven't tried it, so can't say for certain .. but super sheen and resolene are both acrylics and should be OK together.

Bill

[Boriqua]

27 minutes ago, Mattsbagger said:

Got a lot going on there Alex. Lol I read it a couple times and got it worked out but can't help you.

LOL !! yea what the hell .. the older I get and the more time I spend alone the more I tend to babble!

Simplified version ... will resolene stick to supersheen and not do freaky stuff??

[Mattsbagger]

Sounds lIke experiment time to me.

[JLSleather]

I'm with him ↑  no help here.  But for those who like the video version, here's what I mean, in other words...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur1SJo5ZcpI

 

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I always thought that Resolene and Supersheen were the same thing, just different brands.  I have nothing to add to the above, but I would sure go through all the steps on a practice piece.  After all these years, I STILL do not have the perfect finish sequence/combination figured out.  What works on some things is a train wreck on others. Nothing pisses me off more than putting days into a project and ruining it with a poor job of  finishing. Makes for a bad day.

[Boriqua]

Maybe I wont do it for this project but I am going to do some experimenting.

Quote

I always thought that Resolene and Supersheen were the same thing, just different brands

No they are different. Its covered I think in a blurb in "coloring leather" as well. If I want white to stay white when I do an antique I cover it in Supersheen. Its not perfect but it is FAR more white than when I use resolene. Try it .. it can open up some creative ideas. Usually I preplan how much I want the base color affected by overlay colors or antiques and want some impact from the subsequant applications so the resolene works great. It allows just enough mucking up to blend nicely but still resist.

Here are some pix of a not great holster but .. the design area is black, cordovan, Mahogany, and oxblood dye then sealed with just enough resolene and overlayed with antique. If I used supersheen you would see the transitions more but with just the right amount of resolene I keep most of my color and blend edges.If  I wanted and planned for harder edges then supersheen. I'm babbling again!! 

http://www.boriqualeather.com/CZ Compact/

 

I will report back with pix after I experiment.

Alex

[NVLeatherWorx]

In essence they do the same thing so using one as a second coating over the other is not doing anything that can't be achieved by two coats of one product.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I've recently tried using Weaver's clear Tuff Kote, in place of Resolene.  So far, I like it better than anything else I've tried, which includes RTC, Neat Lac, Resolene, Tan Kote, Bag Kote, and years ago, Super Shene.  A couple days ago, I used it as a resist under some Tandy Antique gel stain, and was very pleased with the results. However, I haven't put a final finish on yet, so there's still time for a disaster:-) I did use it on a dark saddle as a top finish and didn't have too much trouble. Applied with sheepskin, about anything seems to lift some antique.  I'd had both the clear Tuff Kote and the Tandy stain around for I don't remember how long and kind of forgot I had them.  The Tandy stain was a color I needed for this specific project.  I'm sure Tuff Kote is an acrylic, but it doesn't smell anything like Resolene.  I've been using the black Tuff Kote for years as an edge finish for black harness and also as a top coat, if I use one at all.  I like it better than the other harness dressings I've tried.  More often than not, I don't top coat finished black harness, as in a year or two it all flakes off due to the high wax and oil content in the harness leather. Then the customers freak out because "the finish is peeling off my harness". Anyway, I digress.  Anyone else tried the Tuff Kote?