Members shoepatcher Posted March 4, 2017 Members Report Posted March 4, 2017 Very Nice job so far trash treasure. Love to see it when it is done!!!!! glenn Quote
Members VanRhodes Posted March 5, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 5, 2017 I love how much time you are putting in to restoring that old beast. I'll see if I can get you of the rocking shaft tomorrow when I'm at the shop again. Quote
Members VanRhodes Posted March 6, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2017 I got the parts from Gregg @keystonesewing today and I wasnt really expecting the tapered pins to be this big and for a moment I thought he had sent me the wrong pins. However, I guess youre supposed to drive them in and then just cut to size wich is kinda neat Thank you for the super speedy shipping! Yetibelle: I also included a picture the shows the approximate angle between the two sides of the rocking shaft. Quote
Members Yetibelle Posted March 6, 2017 Members Report Posted March 6, 2017 The front part is fused to the rocker bar and has no play in it so I left it for now. The back part had a bent set-pin. I managed to get the bent one out of the back and re-pin it so now it is tight again. I also found one that was slightly longer so It does not get lost in there. Once they are set they are not easy to remove. I will eventually replace that setup once I find a new rocker-bar. Quote One day I hope to learn how to sew..... Singer 111W155 - Singer 29-4 - Singer 78-1 - Singer 7-31 - Singer 109w100 - Singer 46W-SV-16 - Adler 20-19 - Cowboy CB-4500
Members VanRhodes Posted March 6, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2017 If all else fails you can always buy the new style rock shaft from Keystone sewing. That is said to mitigate the broken-pin-syndrome and I gotta say the NSRS is looking pretty darn sweet. Quote
Members Gregg From Keystone Sewing Posted March 7, 2017 Members Report Posted March 7, 2017 Glad things are looking on the up and up on this thread. On the rock arms in the back we want a 10 degree angle. Quote Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com
Members VanRhodes Posted March 7, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2017 Yeah. Cant thank you enough for all your help Gregg! Now I just gotta figure out how to get the shuttle race moving to adjust the needle to shuttle relation. For some reason I cant get it moving closer to the needle. Also somewhat worrried about the amount of sideways play in the shuttle hook. I can push it closer to the needle and make it shift a few millimeters but I'm not sure if this will actually be an issue while sewing. I dont have any play even close to this in my Adler 20. Quote
Members sandyt Posted March 7, 2017 Members Report Posted March 7, 2017 With a paper shim, you could move the shuttle race to the needle. I have read this in an old adler manual. Don't know how many play you have to the needle though when you push the hook sideways to the needle. Is it almost touching already? Looks like it. I did this a few years back with an Adler. When I pushed the hook manually towards the hook, they would touch. But when sewing, I never had a problem. They didn't touch. But this was in my case though. I wouldn't recommend it to someone else, but it worked for me. Sandy. Quote
CowboyBob Posted March 7, 2017 Report Posted March 7, 2017 If you look underneath,just to the right of the race(what the shuttle rides in) you'll see a large slotted screw,towards the bottom,you can loosen this & move the race left to right. Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Members VanRhodes Posted March 8, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 CowboyBob: I did loosen the screw in an attempt to slide the shuttle race closer to the needle (just like I did on my adler 20), but this one is properly stuck for some reason. Its not even budging. Quote
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