Members Columbiar Posted February 28, 2017 Members Report Posted February 28, 2017 Hi all Been reading this forum for a while and the info here has helped me to get the tools I need to get started trying to make holsters. No tooling or carving yet. Im down to figuring out what glue, coloring, and finisher to pick up. Any suggestions for a beginner? So many different options...... Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted February 28, 2017 Contributing Member Report Posted February 28, 2017 If you want straight forward and simple, then I'd get Fiebing's dyes and reducer for color, renia glue (barge is very good, at the cost of brain cells), and finish with diluted resolene (dilute with pure water). Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Columbiar Posted March 1, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 1, 2017 1 hour ago, JLSleather said: If you want straight forward and simple, then I'd get Fiebing's dyes and reducer for color, renia glue (barge is very good, at the cost of brain cells), and finish with diluted resolene (dilute with pure water). Thanks! For the Fiebings dye, would you go for the oil dye or one of the others? 1 hour ago, JLSleather said: Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted March 1, 2017 Contributing Member Report Posted March 1, 2017 Either way. I have some of both. Now that the oil dyes are becoming available in more colors (they weren't always) i do use 'em. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Brianm77 Posted March 1, 2017 Members Report Posted March 1, 2017 I have been using weldwood. I know some of the seasoned guys on here don't like it. But I have to say, I had to take a piece apart the other day and I almost could not salvage the half I wanted to keep. I have had pretty good luck. Maybe someone can say why you shouldn't use it. But it is readily available from the hardware store and has worked well for me. By the way get some stainless spatulas or I have seen guys use a piece of a credit card to spread with. It is easily cleaned up with a little mineral spirits and a paper towel. Quote
Members JD62 Posted March 6, 2017 Members Report Posted March 6, 2017 get the weldwood its so cheep if you don't like it just leave the top off {out doors} and toss it in the trash when its hard. But I bet you'll like it ! Quote One day at a time my friends John
Members Columbiar Posted March 8, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 How do you apply the glue from a smaller container without a glue holder with a brush? Cheap foam paint brush? Quote
bikermutt07 Posted March 8, 2017 Report Posted March 8, 2017 55 minutes ago, Columbiar said: How do you apply the glue from a smaller container without a glue holder with a brush? Cheap foam paint brush? Get you some cheap art brushes. A little blue tape never hurt a clean line either. I found on laminating bracelets that wax paper comes in handy as well. I will be using it for belts too. Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Members Brianm77 Posted March 8, 2017 Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 I found a set of these for like $6 at hobby lobby with the model car stuff. I did not like the crappy brush that came on the little weldwood bottle. They work great. A dab of paint thinner or mineral sprits on a paper towel and they come clean even after several days. Cheap brushes I have always been afraid that the brush will come apart. Hope that helps. Quote
Members Brianm77 Posted March 8, 2017 Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 I have also seen guys use a pice of an old credit card. I have been looking for some that are aluminum or plastic, so they won't stick to a magnet. May wind up cutting up an old card myself. Quote
Members Columbiar Posted March 9, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 9, 2017 Tks guys. When using glue like barge or weldwood do you just us a very thin layer? Should a little push out when the two sides are squeezed together Quote
bikermutt07 Posted March 9, 2017 Report Posted March 9, 2017 28 minutes ago, Columbiar said: Tks guys. When using glue like barge or weldwood do you just us a very thin layer? Should a little push out when the two sides are squeezed together You let it set up for a bit. It will not be liquid when you bond the two pieces together. When applying close to an edge brush towards the edge, not from it. This will keep globs from forming on your edge. Just like when painting a piece of trim. Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Members Brianm77 Posted March 9, 2017 Members Report Posted March 9, 2017 The flesh side should have two coats. The first let it dry tales 20-30 minutes. It does not hurt to do it on the skin side also, but mainly the back side. Ooz oh out is not the end of the world but I would at her not have it. It can be difficult to sand away sometimes. Quote
Members Thornton Posted March 10, 2017 Members Report Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Bondo spreaders, cheap at harbor freight, can be trimmed to size to fit any project. Glue peels off easy enough. I like the looks of the metal spatulas also. Edited March 10, 2017 by Thornton Quote
Members Sheilajeanne Posted March 11, 2017 Members Report Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) I save popsicle sticks to use as spreaders. You just throw them out if they get too messy! And Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye is LIGHT YEARS better than their regular dye! I found the regular stuff very very hard to apply evenly. It did help if the leather was slightly moist, though. Didn't have that problem with the oil dye. The regular dye also dried out the leather and made it curl. Edited March 11, 2017 by Sheilajeanne Quote
bikermutt07 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Posted March 11, 2017 Since we are talking colors I will throw this in for information's sake. I emailed fiebings about the difference between pro oil and pro dyes. Fiebings is getting rid of the pro oil dye moniker. All the dyes that are marked pro dye are the same formula as the ones marked pro oil. You will see the pro oil marked bottles disappearing as stock sells off. Yay, a little less confusion. Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Members JD62 Posted March 11, 2017 Members Report Posted March 11, 2017 Bikermutt07 Thanks for the heads up Quote One day at a time my friends John
bikermutt07 Posted March 12, 2017 Report Posted March 12, 2017 No worries Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
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