Dye problems

[bakdrft]

Untitled by bakdrft, 

Untitled by bakdrft, on Flickr

Having problems with the black. It was put down first (3 coats) then satin sheen then burgundy then the antique,, Why would black fade?

Edited March 1, 2017 by bakdrft

[Mattsbagger]

More info needed. What brand and style. ie: spirit based or water based. Fiebings or eco flow. 

[bakdrft]

Untitled by bakdrft, 

 

4-5 Veggie Tan

 

[Mattsbagger]

I've never used eco flo dye. Never needed more than one coat of Fiebing's pro oil. Have to buff well to get any pigment off surface. For multiple colors on same piece might wanna look into cova colors. Acrylic paint by eco flo.

[Ed in Tx]

Using something like Fiebings Deglazer prior to the dye might help. The Deglazer will remove the glaze that occurs during the finishing processes at the tannery.

[bakdrft]

I have used the black as a solid single color on a knife sheath 2 coats and then the sheen.   Turned out well. Not sure which messed it up, maybe the combo of satin sheen and eco flo Hi Lite together...

Thanks for your replies

 

John

[bakdrft]

OK, so I purchase Fiebings Pro Dye,,,,, No problems.   Eco Flo in the garbage

 

[Mattsbagger]

Make sure you stay away from the US MC from Fiebings apparently you will have to spend days buffing the excess off. Love the Pro dye never needed more than one coat. Good luck.

[Grihm]

Question. Do you remember if the Eco Flow felt " stringy " or  " slimy " when you applied it to the sponge?

[NVLeatherWorx]

13 hours ago, Grihm said:

Question. Do you remember if the Eco Flow felt " stringy " or  " slimy " when you applied it to the sponge?

You should be applying it with a dauber, sponges don't give you the right application surface to get a good penetration.  This whole thing of using sponges for applying everything and the constant failure of researching a question before posting it (because these issues are rehashed over and over again on just about a daily basis in one place or another here) are the biggest reasons why these issues continue to plague everyone.

If you want a solid application of product then use the proper application tool:

Dye/liquid stain = dauber
Top Coat/Finish and Oil = synthetic/sheepskin pad
Antique Paste = sheepskin pad
Fine/Detail coloring = proper sized paint brush
Edge finish = modified dauber (should know how to do this)

Products that get proper results:

Spirit based products give best, and most consistent, results without question.  These products have been around much longer than any water-based products and have a proven track record the world over.  Water-based products are just somebody's "feel good about themselves" idea of trying to make people think that they can do their part to "save the world", well, it doesn't need to be saved because there is nothing wrong with it and these products DO NOT provide a quality result (as is repeatedly addressed within this community).

If you are looking to make quality finished goods then you need to use quality raw materials and supplies to do so, trying to create quality from garbage has already been tried and has failed repeatedly, it is what we call "mass produced" and is found everywhere that our client base THINKS is out to help them better their daily lives by bringing them "value" when all they are doing is bringing them stuff that fails quickly and needs frequent replacement.  A professional should be striving to bring change to that thinking by providing a product that is intended to outlast that crap that is typically purchased.

[Grihm]

9 hours ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

You should be applying it with a dauber, sponges don't give you the right application surface to get a good penetration.  This whole thing of using sponges for applying everything and the constant failure of researching a question before posting it (because these issues are rehashed over and over again on just about a daily basis in one place or another here) are the biggest reasons why these issues continue to plague everyone.

If you want a solid application of product then use the proper application tool:

Dye/liquid stain = dauber
Top Coat/Finish and Oil = synthetic/sheepskin pad
Antique Paste = sheepskin pad
Fine/Detail coloring = proper sized paint brush
Edge finish = modified dauber (should know how to do this)

Products that get proper results:

Spirit based products give best, and most consistent, results without question.  These products have been around much longer than any water-based products and have a proven track record the world over.  Water-based products are just somebody's "feel good about themselves" idea of trying to make people think that they can do their part to "save the world", well, it doesn't need to be saved because there is nothing wrong with it and these products DO NOT provide a quality result (as is repeatedly addressed within this community).

If you are looking to make quality finished goods then you need to use quality raw materials and supplies to do so, trying to create quality from garbage has already been tried and has failed repeatedly, it is what we call "mass produced" and is found everywhere that our client base THINKS is out to help them better their daily lives by bringing them "value" when all they are doing is bringing them stuff that fails quickly and needs frequent replacement.  A professional should be striving to bring change to that thinking by providing a product that is intended to outlast that crap that is typically purchased.

 

The question was more in relation to a problem i have had with bad quality antique. We bought a black antique, but when pouring it out from the bottle, the consistency was slimy and a bit rubberbandy, and not fluid as it supposed to be. The result of the color was as described in the first pic. 

 

PS: Much appreciation for the tips of materials to use. Thumbs up!

Edited March 12, 2017 by Grihm
Added thank you!