Eco-flo dye error (Eco-Flo Coal Black)

[TwinOaks]

Alchohol based....doesn't alchohol mix with water? Could you leave a bottle of eco open and let some of the water evaporate out of it then add isopropyl back to it? Hmmmm....experiment time. :alarm: :alarm:

[bcurrier]

The problem is that the dyestuff itself is water soluble. So even if you dry it out and re-dissolve in alcohol for application, when the dyed goods get wet, the dye will run.

Bill

[AlcoveShop]

Yeah, I understand the basic syndrome, which is that the dye has to be soluble in water in order for water to act as the carrier into the leather. As a result, re-wetting just re-dissolves the dye and it runs all over. What I meant by a "fixative" is a curing agent that changes the dye into a non water-soluble form. There's a number of problems in delivering something like that, not the least of which is that it exchanges the solvent dye problem with a curing agent problem.

Hmmm - maybe the answer is to figure out how to make your own alcohol-based dyes???...

Bill

If you think about it, Fiebings already has the process down pat; if you cant buy them directly, seek out a distributor (as some have mentioned). Problems of this nature tied to the finicky nature of some "ahem" leathers made me dump that line completely, and just distribute for Fiebings and Dyo. Fiebings has a water based line as well if you really need it.

[steveb]

This is all very true. I'm a big proponent of the Eco-Flo dyes and Satin Shene, but I'm only making belts, wallets, covers, etc. With a couple of coats of Satin Shene on top, Eco-Flo dyes are water resistant -- which means occasional exposure to a few drops of rain, etc. I've never had a problem with Eco-Flo under those circumstances.

BUT, if I was building something that might get significant exposure to water like a holster or a motorcycle seat, etc., I think continuing to use spirit dyes makes sense. But I still wouldn't dye before molding. If you want the inside of the holster to be black, I'd either use a dauber post-construction, or I'd think about a dip-dye method...

Just my 2 cents! (If it's even worth that much!) :pirate2:

Alex

well i dont think it is appropriate for belts either...I dont know about you -

but in the summer - when on my bike in the heat or when workign outside,

i've sweat through my jeans many times...i dont think id want a black stripe around my waist!!

steveb

[David]

I don't see why the same old Neat Lac solution wouldn't work here too. And it might be a project saver for you. Neat Lac is flexible, soaks into the leather and binds the dye to the leather.

Give it a try.

Better yet....dont use black....ha ha I know that sometimes you just need it.

Dave

[abn]

well i dont think it is appropriate for belts either...I dont know about you -

but in the summer - when on my bike in the heat or when workign outside,

i've sweat through my jeans many times...i dont think id want a black stripe around my waist!!

steveb

I don't finish the inside of a belt. I've never really seen the need, and I like the soft knap of the flesh side anyway... So that's not really a problem for me.

[Shorts]

Well, if you don't have a California address, you should still be able to get ahold of the old alcohol-based Fiebing's Leather Dyes. Tandy still sells them, as do others...

The problem is that the dyestuff itself is water soluble. So even if you dry it out and re-dissolve in alcohol for application, when the dyed goods get wet, the dye will run.

Bill

Well I'm currently going over this predicatment now. Ecoflo was only dye I could get ahold of so I'm stuck. I suppose one could combine the dye and mold process here, which would work fine for holsters which haven't been built, molded and dried waiting for a dye and seal.

It is with these holsters that are still raw, yet formed that I'm wondering if the suggestion by abn would work. Would denatured alcohol work as the medium for the dye application which would leave the molding in tact?? Possibly application by an airbrush?

[Rawhide]

The problem is that the dyestuff itself is water soluble. So even if you dry it out and re-dissolve in alcohol for application, when the dyed goods get wet, the dye will run.

Bill

That's one of the problems as well, it's not dyestuffs like spirit dye, it's pigment power.

And, you can use solvent to dilute it, this will help it dry faster between coats. However, it will still run when wet.

Marlon

[Shorts]

That's one of the problems as well, it's not dyestuffs like spirit dye, it's pigment power.

And, you can use solvent to dilute it, this will help it dry faster between coats. However, it will still run when wet.

Marlon

Is that including after a top coat is applied?

Anyone familiar with the mix ratio to use with denatured alcohol?

Edited April 20, 2008 by Shorts

[Ian]

I'm wondering, did all the dye wash out? If you can rinse it until the leather runs clear, couldn't you mold it, the re-dye it with spirit dye once it dries? Then apply your finish?