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Posted
I'm wondering, did all the dye wash out? If you can rinse it until the leather runs clear, couldn't you mold it, the re-dye it with spirit dye once it dries? Then apply your finish?

Yes, you can redye, assuming you have the other types of dye on hand. I think the OP was miffed that after dyeing he went back to finish the holster and it bled on him so he had to redo that step again. I'd be kicking myself too! lol

The idea behind these water-based dyes is they're easy to work with and nontoxic so they're very easy to get/ship. However, depending on what projects one is using them on, you have to think long and hard 1) will I be able to use this dye effectively? and 2) how do I change my process to accomodate it? I think that's the toughest thing since once you have your process down on how you make your projects, it takes some thought to catch yourself instead of just proceeding forward with normal. Have to change things up after setting a regimene.

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Posted

I agree with ABN, wetmold first then dye after its dry. then use a finish to waterproof it. neat-lac or saddle-lac if it needs to be flexable. better yet, use the vinagar and rust trick that was posted on here a few weeks ago. from what I understand, that doesnt bleed.

Duke

When I stand before God at the end of my life, I would hope that I would not have a single bit of talent left, and could say, "I used everything you gave me." ~Erma Bombeck

  • 5 months later...
Posted

dying black oil dye.this works ,on clean lea surface oil, dry ovnite,neatlac surface, dry .then black oil dye, dry, buff ,dye agin if needed,then lac agin.little or none rub off,this put new hope in me fer sure adios peter john

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Posted

Never tried Eco-flo. I would only use Professional Oil Dye if I can get it. But I can't.

I have since made my own dye. I can buy the dye powder and disolve them in spirit. The same dye powder will disolve in water as well as thinner.

Dye + thinner = the worst problem with bleeding I have encountered.

Dye + water = will bleed but not as bad as dye + thinner.

Dye + spirit = the least bleeding but it will still bleed.

To stop the dye from bleeding, I would either apply a thin coat of shellac or a wax mixture that contains lanolin.

The dye that is produced with spirit is very much like the Professional Oil dye. I think there might be some other mixture in it that prevents the dye from bleeding. I am thinking it could be shellac but I am not sure.

singteck

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Posted

I just told my hubby to never let me buy Eco-flo black again, I made the mistake of dying a knife case first and then lacing, my hands and my clothes are both black. This dye has been on the leather for over 3 weeks, so I know it's dry. I have sealed it once and am going to seal it again before I send it to it's new owner. It's really embarrassing to have to explain to someone why the black dye has transferred to everything it has touched. No more eco-flo black for me!

I have also used the vinegar method and it works great, no transfer at all even without sealant. But why you ask did I used the eco-flo instead of the vinegaroon on the knife case? Well, vinegaroon smells like vinegar but I have also noticed from the tool cases that I made for myself, even after rinsing well, the tool tends to want to rust after being placed in the case. I usually oil up my pliers and then place them in the case (one time has been enough) and that seems to take care of the rust problem, I just didn't want to chance it on a clients favorite knife. :)

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Posted

Full strength Resolene seals well. I haven't had a holster come back nor had a complaint about rub off. I use Coal Black Ecoflo without worry. Unsealed, it will rub off. Sealed with Resolene, it is good. The type of sealant matters. Search a post "Resolene vs Tan Kote" here in the Dye/Finishes forum for explanation

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