Adler 105-64: how light can it sew?

[Matt S]

I'm in the market for a cylinder-arm machine. I have a design in mind for mens' wallets which requires a cylinder arm machine. Thickness is between 2 and 4mm. Reverse is essential for this job, as access is very tight. Fairly straight-forward then -- so long as I use thread no larger than TKT20 (V138) I can use any number of Singer 153W or Pfaff 335 type machines. However, since workshop space is limited I would love to be able to use this machine also for sewing gussets into heavy satchels -- 4-8mm thickness of hard bridle leather should be easy enough but I want to use TKT10 (V277) thread or thicker, which elmiinates the usual cylinder-arm machines. I do not have the budget for a 441 or 205 type machine and was tempted to get a Singer 45K89 (cylinder arm snapping-foot with reverse) as I can deal with dog-marks. However some Adler 105-64s have come up, which seem to be a generally more refined product with more parts and accessories available off the shelf. Plus, I like needle-feed! :-)

 

So to my question. The manual for the 105-64 recommends needles as small as 22/140, which will work well with TKT20 (V138) thread. I realise this is at the lighter end of the machine's comfort zone. Will I encounter problems forming a neat stitch in 2mm total of veg-tan leather? I am hoping that a 105-64 will prove to be a very flexible machine for a variety of jobs where my BUSM #6 is too much gun.

[Diyer]

You can only get smaller sizes than 160 needles in non leather point. I have used a normal round point needle for years on my Seiko STW 8B, sewing mostly clothing leather, but occasionally 3mm bridle butts. I think your problem is going to be that the needles for the 105 in thin sizes are going to deflect more easily, and also break. My personal opinion is that a 130 is the smallest I would go to.As I have now dismounted my 105, as it is for sale, I cannot do any experimentation for you. I did buy some 130 needles, but as I now have a 205/370(new toy) I never got round to trying it out.

lt is going to depend on how fast you are wanting to go. Industrials are designed to go flat out, so manufacturers´recommendations reflect that.

[Matt S]

Hi Diyer, I think your machine is one that's tempting me ;-)

I take your point about deflecting thinner needles, I used words I didn't even think I knew as I turned size 160 331LR needles into shrapnel when I couldn't use the needle steady on my #6. Running flat-out is not something I intend to do, which as you point out will help with any deflection issues.

Have you done much sewing around 2mm with your 105?

[CowboyBob]

Unless you glue everything you want to sew you'll have a lot of problems with slippage trying to sew real thin #1 since it's only a needlefeed you 'll need to loosen the foot pressure up & also work (loosen) both the top & bobbin tension  to be able to use the thin thread & then you'll have to re-adjust everything when you go to thick thread.I always tell people there's no machine that does it all & if you want or need to sew such a wide range of thickness you should get 2 machines.The 4oz would be better suited for a good old Singer home machine than a 105.I would also say that 138 is too thick for 2oz of leather,you need #69 or 46.

[Diyer]

I have not used the 105 for anything thinner than 3mm-as I have a Seiko STW8B for thin stuff. I bought the Adler many years after  the Seiko.