pricking iron questions

[Sanch]

Okay so I have never used or actually held a pricking iron and I'm wondering about the spacing between the teeth. Is the measurement that's being given for instance 3.8 is that from tip to tip? Or is that the space in between each tooth? Also how long should the teeth be ? So  for those of you  that have them  can you please give me some dimensions  metric would be fine ! Yes you guessed it. This will be my next challenge to make a set of irons out of the L6 that I made my other tools from. My plan is to make the blade out of the L6 and to make a handle out of half inch square iron which I believe to be wrought iron. I plan to mig weld the blade to the handle after I heat treat and temper the blade. I also plan to put a Twist in the handle both for ornamentation and better grip I figure the handles would probably be good at six inches in length. So any information shared on this subject would be greatly appreciated I'm having so much fun making tools and I'm wondering what the outcome of these will be thanks for any and all replies.

[bikermutt07]

I would just order a set from Amazon. I got 2 sets for less than 30 dollars.

Then just copy them, but better.

I hope you are really good with a file.

Another option is....

Nigel has the dimensions for the new crimson hide (name may be a little off) pricking chisels\crossbreed that seemed really cool. All of the teeth taper down as they turn (he mentions the tapering widths).

They actually produced a set of irons that behave like a row of awl teeth. Really neat concept. Watch the video.

Edited April 1, 2017 by bikermutt07

[Sanch]

9 minutes ago, bikermutt07 said:

I would just order a set from Amazon. I got 2 sets for less than 30 dollars.

Then just copy them, but better.

I hope you are really good with a file.

Another option is....

Nigel has the dimensions for the new crimson hide (name may be a little off) pricking chisels\crossbreed that seemed really cool. All of the teeth taper down as they turn (he mentions the tapering widths).

They actually produced a set of irons that behave like a row of awl teeth. Really neat concept. Watch the video.

Thank you for the reply. You wouldn't happen to have a link would you? Also as far as buying them I prefer to make a set myself. Call me frugal. Plus I have plenty of Steel that I know will outperform the cheap stuff I would rather spend the time making something that I can be proud of and proud to say that I made my leather goods with a tool that I made. I do all of my stitching by hand and so I know how an awl acts in my hand and if I can reproduce this in a pricking iron then I will be golden.

Edited April 1, 2017 by Sanch

[bikermutt07]

Here ya go. Jump into about minute 6 for teeth info.

Edited April 1, 2017 by bikermutt07

[Tugadude]

You can probably borrow some and take the measurements you need.  Trouble is you kind of need experience with them in order to make a decision on what to make.  Otherwise you have to trust the opinion of others or just take a chance.

Do you want a true pricking iron that is intended mainly to mark holes, not to punch them?  Or a stitching chisel?  What shape holes, slits or diamond?

Mainly you need to figure out stitches per inch and that need tends to vary depending on the article.

[Mattsbagger]

A round nurled handle like on the black oxide Tandy one are more comfortable than the flat style IMHO. 

[Sanch]

8 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

Here ya go. Jump into about minute 6 for teeth info.

tankx

[Sanch]

4 hours ago, Tugadude said:

You can probably borrow some and take the measurements you need.  Trouble is you kind of need experience with them in order to make a decision on what to make.  Otherwise you have to trust the opinion of others or just take a chance.

Do you want a true pricking iron that is intended mainly to mark holes, not to punch them?  Or a stitching chisel?  What shape holes, slits or diamond?

Mainly you need to figure out stitches per inch and that need tends to vary depending on the article.

going more for a stitching chisel

 

30 minutes ago, Mattsbagger said:

A round nurled handle like on the black oxide Tandy one are more comfortable than the flat style IMHO. 

knurled handles are fine but this is taking place at my forge no lathe available so hot twist it's gonna be. 

@bikermutt07 I watchwatched the video about the same time you posted.  

to all replies thank you this will be fun I mostly am doing it just for wallets so the bar is set high cause the tines need to be pretty dang good biggest hurdle here.SPI will be dependent on my cutting wheel so many variables! gotta make sparks to make the goods.

[Tugadude]

If I had the ability and the tools, I would attempt a set like these.  I would go for 8 to 9 spi for wallets and keep the width of the tines on the small side.  You will notice they don't taper.  They are meant to penetrate through the leather.  These are diamond shaped, but don't need to be.  They could be more like slits, but keep in mind they have to be strong enough to work properly.  Bikermutt is right when he talks about filing.  Polishing is also important so that you can get the chisel back out after punching.  Wax helps but is no replacement for a properly prepared tool.

I would do a 2 prong, 4 prong and 8 prong.  2 prong is sufficient to go around corners.  8 prong is great for long, straight runs (could get by with 6 probably) and 4 prong is helpful for going crosswise on straps, etc. where the 8 is too wide.  Learned that through experience unfortunately.

[Sanch]

looks like the idea I had was on track so far except I'm gonna do 2, 4, 10 and try for 6-8 SPI. but it's gotta wait till stitching clamp is worked on...but here is a pic of the parent steel 

Edited April 1, 2017 by Sanch
added pic

[Tugadude]

6 spi is too few for wallets IMHO.  I'd shoot for 8.

[Sanch]

3 hours ago, Tugadude said:

6 spi is too few for wallets IMHO.  I'd shoot for 8.

really hmm. we'll see what I can do 

[slipangle]

This is another cool idea, Sanch. One I contemplated myself. Wanted to make a set much like the Crimson Hides irons, after looking at the pictures of them. Then I actually looked at what was involved. I have a small milling machine but still, the complex cuts and grinds are beyond my capabilities. So I just bought a set. Very nice tools.

making some out of a saw blade is a novel idea. But, what is the kerf, or thickness of that saw blade? Are you planning on adding handle scales, much like a knife? That would look cool. 

[Sanch]

1 hour ago, slipangle said:

This is another cool idea, Sanch. One I contemplated myself. Wanted to make a set much like the Crimson Hides irons, after looking at the pictures of them. Then I actually looked at what was involved. I have a small milling machine but still, the complex cuts and grinds are beyond my capabilities. So I just bought a set. Very nice tools.

making some out of a saw blade is a novel idea. But, what is the kerf, or thickness of that saw blade? Are you planning on adding handle scales, much like a knife? That would look cool. 

The blade thickness is 1/8" the handles will be twisted square stock I believe to be wrought iron. even if it's just mild steel it'll do not knife scale type but that's a fine idea. if my "blades" come out good I may just do that. I failed to mention that's no regular circular saw blade. it's a saw mill blade 20" diameter 

Edited April 2, 2017 by Sanch