Starting and finishing the stitch at a specific point (machine stitching)

[jakc3]

Heya,

I come from hand sewing world and am just beginning to really learn how to use a sewing machine. 

Currently, I am trying to make a watch strap and am having difficulties lining up the stitching perfectly at 3 crucial points (start, tip, end). Starting stitch should be perfectly parallel to the ending stitch and the tip directly in the middle. How on bloody earth do you do this (see the image below)?

I am trying to sew at somewhere around 10spi.

Also, what is the best way to start and finish the stitch so it won't look messy and the thread will stay put/secure?

Many thanks

 

 

[Gregspitz]

I crease a line to stay parallel to the edge. Visulalization of your needle is key. I modified my walking foot pressor foot to see the needle and I use a roller foot machine as well.  I use an awl to mark all the points you have on your drawing and aim for those. Hand crank when you are 1 or 2 stitches away from these points to hit the mark if you need to. Over time and practice you will get to know your machine and leather better for stitch length approximation and the machine will do all the work for you. It took quite a large number of straps to get this down and I started by making key fobs as they are just straps as well and fun to make

Hope that helps

[Gregspitz]

best way to start and end is....forward stitch,back stitch, then forward stitch to lock everything up.

[Tejas]

I think you are looking for a technique for aesthetics, so I'm not sure this helps, but as for ending at a particular point, I sew to one less stitch from the ending point and with the needle up use the reverse level to shorten the last stitch to end as close as I can to to the desired point. 

[Mark842]

Depending on the type of leather you are sewing, mark your stitch lines either with a silver pen or a stitch groover. Silver pen for leathers like chrome tanned that tannery dyed and sealed and the groover for veg tanned. Line your needle tip up with your starting point and follow your line towards your next way point that you have to hit spot on. When one or two stitches away turn the machine by hand. As your dropping the needle on the stitch for your way point, lift your presser foot and line the leather up so the needle hits your point. If this will be on a corner in the stitching, take the needle down through your leather to bottom dead center and then up 25% of the length of your needle. Then with the needle still in that position turn your leather to the new direction you want to sew and stitch away to the next way point, repeat. This will insure the top thread hooks the bobbin thread and you will get perfect turn.

When do your last few stitches, since we didn't start with a back stitch, hit your way point using the turning by hand method and then stitch the next three stitches in the same holes you started in. This will lock your stitches in.

Two other methods are to start with a back stitch and end with a back stitch. For me, on small items like watch bands I don't like this method as no matter how perfectly you hit your holes you have the double the thread and it shows. The other method I do use a lot on watch bands that I will be lining, is to not do any back stitches, nor do I sew over my first three stitches. Instead sew your project and end in the hole you started in. Grap your bottom thread for the first stitch and pull it till the knot for the lockstitch pulls through the bottom of the leather. Use an awl to grab that loop and pull the top thread through to the bottom and tie a knot between the top and bottom thread. repeat for your last stitch.