My 1911 shoulder rig project...

[unmitigatedaudacity]

I've been sentenced to a wheelchair, at least for now, so while I go about wheeled I want to make sure I go about heeled.  I can't use the holster I used to carry my Beretta Cougar in because the arm rests interfere with my draw from 4:00, and I'm afraid of appendix carry.  Anyone can win the lottery, and I don't want to shoot my nuts off.  I'm pretty disciplined with my firearms, but I've proven to be unlucky and my physical acuity is waning.  (Spinal injuries are miserable.  Avoid them if you can.)

So I decided I wanted to go back to carrying in a shoulder rig, but I grew to dislike my old Galco, which carried the pistol horizontally, because I was constantly lasering the folks behind me.  It was also an awkward draw.  Back before I became disabled I had been a power lifter (saved my life in the big crash) so I have enough muscle around me that it's not easy to reach around and draw.  I considered a cross draw, but it doesn't address the issue of what to do with the piece when I visit the head.  I need a shoulder rig.  

So the point I'm getting at, in case my tags didn't give me away, is that I'd like to make myself a custom tanker holster. It'll let me carry more towards the front of my torso, and pointed at an angle toward the deck instead of at random innocents.  Plus, it's a cool design.

But I can't just take one off the shelf because my wife bought me a Colt rail Gun for our anniversary - and she is a keeper, that one (the wife, although the pistol is, too) - and I slapped a laser/light show on the rail, so nothing out there fits it.  But I earned Leatherworking Merit Badge back in the late twentieth century, so I think I can make one of my own.

But here's my question:  can anyone tell me anything helpful about adapting existing designs to accommodate various dust cover-mounted gizmos?  I was thinking about wrapping the pistol and laser/light in plastic wrap, and then wet-molding the whole assembly with a sheet of leather big enough to leave a substantial border, then laying it down on a tanker-styled shape and carving off what I don't need. (I'd add a large oval strap in front of it all with the old "US" logo, just as a respectful shout out to tradition.)

Am I kidding myself, or am I onto something here?

I'd be grateful for any suggestions, insights, advice, or dirty limericks.  Thanks in advance.

All the best,

George

[Josh Ashman]

Welcome to the forum George and good luck with your project! Your plan sounds like a s good place to start. I have made 1911 chest rigs and I have made one holster for a pistol with a rail mounted light (SR22), but I haven't ever made both. You might consider using a tension screw (8/32 screw, finish washer, T-nut on the back and rubber washer made of fuel line is how I do them, a Chicago screw back also works instead of the T-nut and looks more finished). Of course if your're closely following the tanker rig and put a retention strap on it the screw wouldn't be needed. It seems like by the time you make a pouch big enough to hold a full size 1911 with a light you might have a hard time getting it molded tight enough to have good retention. 

All the best, Josh

[unmitigatedaudacity]

Thanks for that, Josh!

[plinkercases]

Welcome George and I look forward to seeing what you come up with as much as enjoy your sense of humour and gratitude - all things considered.

And always nice to have a couple of "keepers" in your life isn't it?

[Treed]

I make between 15 and 25 of these every couple of weeks. The standard ones for large revolvers and semi autos are a fold over and sewn on one side. The ones that I make for scoped revolvers some of them reach barrel lengths of 8 to 10 inches are done the way that you have described. They are a two piece holster that the top is molded to the gun and accessories that are installed and then sewn to the body all the straps and hardware is sewn down first. 

Bobby

[Dwight]

I make one of these every now and then, . . . just finished one for an HK USP .45, . . . 

These pictures don't tell the whole story, . . . but if you look close you can get an idea of my pattern.

When I do a scope, . . . I cut a channel down where the sight track should be for the scope mount to go down in, . . . I would do the same for a red dot or anything else like that.

In a wheel chair, . . . I would also opt for a thumb break rather than the strap over the gun butt, . . . with the thumb break, you do not have to mold it tight for retention, as the thumb break will provide security.

May God bless,

Dwight

 

Edited June 8, 2017 by Dwight

[JD62]

  George, I feel for ya bro ,I'm an L1 burst a year and a half out,and have been trying to figure a way to carry my "babies " in a chair for about a year.       

I don't carry anything that big but I agree that appendix and cross draw don't  work so well.  I cant reach my ankles with all that wonderful titanium in there so I guess on the shoulder is all that's left.    Gona suck in the summer tho.

[Dwight]

Unmitigatedaudacity, . . .  you have an inbound PM.

May God bless,

Dwight