Limitations of Last Modifications

[billybopp]

Maybe this will help:  Lisa Sorrell has a few videos on lasts and sizing. 

 

 

Bill

[AdamGadut]

since i can only post up to max 1.46MB, i will have to post multiple times.. 

as you can see here, my modifications for the last aren't done yet, I'm thinking i need to add one one more layer of cork to the inner side  all the way from top to bottom, then another layer that connects the outer side to the heel, and one more layer to the heel lengthening it overall. Then after that, trimming the cork to shape. 

Image A:

 

 

on the below image, it may seem the last matches the outline, but up close personal, i see it still needs to be bigger.

Image B

 

Image C:

 

Some more pics coming up so hang on.

[AdamGadut]

so there's already 3 layers of cork on the outer side. the corkboards i have are cut in small pieces so you see there's actually a part here where the other cork connects.

Image D

 

Image E:

 

Image F:

 

 

 

the inner sides doesnt have additional filler yet. I am yet to add one layer to the inner sides

Image G

 

some more pics coming up

Edited June 10, 2017 by AdamGadut

[AdamGadut]

 

aside from the foot outline, i have here a couple measurements i took. on the below image, the ball of foot in the shoe last has a girth of about 23.7 CM

 

Image H

 

 

forgive me if my feet couldn't look any better. it has taken a lot of abuse from poorly fitted shoes. I always have to use about a size bigger to accommodate the width.

on my foot, the ball part is at 25.7cm - so definitely, i need to add some more material on the last to widen it a bit more.

Image I

 

Image J

 

on the instep, on the shoe last, its girth is at 24.5 CM

Image K

 

on my foot, the instep girth is at 25.3 cm. So, the last still needs some volume on the inner side - i belive

Image L

 

Image M

 

 

 

once i get it to the right volume, after trimming it to the shape of the last, i will add a layer of thin leather

 

 

[electrathon]

I see your last has no provision for folding in the middle.  This may be an issue depending on your shoe design.  Do not forget about the ankle diameter too.

[AdamGadut]

2 hours ago, electrathon said:

I see your last has no provision for folding in the middle.  This may be an issue depending on your shoe design.  Do not forget about the ankle diameter too.

i am yet to cut it in half and add a bolt in the middle to hold it in place.. I've seen in one of Lisa Sorel's video, a Last Maker he did the cut on about 45 degree angle with a bandsaw.

[RockyAussie]

I can now see a bit more of where and how your going with this.This looks like a shoe last and not a boot last to start with. As Electrathon has pointed out  some method of breaking the last will need to be sorted out. Some old ones I've used have a scaloped out section from the lower instep on up and toward the heel which is held in place by a screw. It appears that you may not have taken into account a lot of important measurements and to help with this I have inserted a link that I would think you might consider looking at first. I do not want to dishearten you with where you are at but I have to say I would remove all that cork and start again with some 3mm veg leather if possible. Try and work more with the last shape when building up in a more all over way. I would start with building up first the width of ball (metatarsal area a bit then try and overlay this in a more complete way right across the whole last. This will help to maintain the actual last shape better and thereon your shoe as well. Please pay attention to the instep and long heel measurements when adding on this layer. The best of shoemakers will often not get a good fit straight away and there are a few things that can be done to make this a little easier. The first I would say after getting all of your measurements close is to put a 3mm piece onto the sole of your last (glue it on and metal plate on top if you want.) and this will allow you to put in a cushioned sock liner insole which can easily be sanded down or added too, to get a more comfortable fit. When you have the leather insole glued and attached to the upper and held in place try it on for size here and make any adjustments such as loosing or tightening. Don't forget to do that with the sock liner insole in place as well. Another thing that can help is a little foam on the lining side of the heel counter at the top as this can help a bit with the counter not being a perfect fit to the persons heel. Make this thin at the top back and go wider as it wraps around. This would be about 80mm long and about 20mm deep in the widest part and around 2 or 3mm thick when compressed into place.The last your showing here is a low heel height and I would think only about about 1/2" (13 to 15mm high). Getting the heel height and toe spring right is often overlooked but is an important part to get a correct comfortable wearing shoe. You have the advantage here of tacking on temporally heel pieces until it feels right in wear. Here is the link-  http://chestofbooks.com/business/clothing/footwear/The-Manufacture-Of-Boots-And-Shoes/The-Operation-Of-Measuring.html

A few pics of the tools that you have may help as well.

That's it for now Brian

[electrathon]

I want to add in here that Brian knows a lot more about this stuff than I do.  I am very much a beginner, 4 pairs of shoes so far.  Currently on pair #5.  Lasts are harder to get correct as a beginner than the shoe is, so be cautious and read as much as you can find.  Few people alter them as far as you are, that adds a level of difficulty that is tough for a beginner.  By the looks of your feet, you must be at least a EE width, that will make proper lasts tough to find too.

[AdamGadut]

yeah, i meant to make shoes, not boots yet. i really don't have those tools yet that are specialized to do shoemaking. there's literally no shop around that carries those so they'll have to be ordered online. From where i live, shipping takes about a month so it'll take a bit. the ones i have are the typical, well, long nose pliers, a hammer, rubber mallet, some hack saw, and a razor cutter with disposable blades, and i dont even have the curved awl, but i'm looking to make my own. Some of the tools i have i created out of common house hold items.

 I'm guessing the cork i have here aren't enough to handle some tough lasting.

i initially thought oh making my own last- but i see how this will take a whole lot of time to do right, plus i dont have the correct wood.. 

[RockyAussie]

Hi Adam again, I would forget about the curved awl to start with as that would be a level of difficulty in construction that at this stage I would not recommend to start off with. I would at least try and get a pair of lasting pliers such as in this link for sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Vintage-Cobblers-Shoe-Boot-Tack-Hammer-Lasting-Pliers-Tool-/232351152913

As you work around the last pulling the upper into shape these will allow you to pull way more easily than with a pair of pliers. The tightness needed to pull into shape is quite a lot and when learning and it is not uncommon to pull a piece right out of the upper and sometimes ruining your upper.If you intend to be able to make shoes regularly I would also try and find a lasting jack. Here is a picture of one I own below. The mirrors are just something I added to be able to see that the upper is staying in the correct place while I am pulling the upper around with these pliers. This particular lasting jack allows you to freely turn the last around in to whatever direction makes it easier to pull against and the spring in the middle helps to apply tension so it doesn't revolve too easily. Electrathon do not run off as it has been over 15 years or more since I have made any shoes and my terminology may be off and rusty and you would agree that making shoes as a beginner is a major challenge. When I was making shoes I had the advantage of being able to vacuum form some clear uppers onto the lasts for customer fitting purposes. This had the advantage of showing tight areas as the skin would show white where ever it was tight and made corrections a lot more of a precise exercise. Even with all of this marvellous stuff there were times where getting everything right was difficult.

Regards Brian