Mexican loop question

[dikman]

All of my holsters have been a drop loop style (but not Buscadero, I don't really like them) with the separate securing strap attached to the skirt - except for my Steve McQueen holsters, which have no skirt. I haven't made a Mexican loop yet but am thinking about trying one. I see a problem, however, and need some advice. All my holsters are wet-molded and stained (or stained and wet-molded, I've tried both ways). The staining and wet-molding obviously makes them very stiff - so how do I push the holster through the skirt loop? If I wet the holster again, to soften it, I'm likely to lose some of the stamping definition and also the edge finishing is likely to be affected.

What am I missing here?

[Josh Ashman]

My 2 cents would be to fold the holster back through the loop whenever you wet mold it. Obviously you'd have to dye it first, unless you're dip dyeing, then it's probably OK t fold, mold then dye. If you are already stamping then wet molding afterwords you won't loose any more definition then you already are.

Good luck with your project!

Josh

[LumpenDoodle2]

I learned how to do Mexican loop holsters via an Al Stohlman book, and worked out my way from there.   

When the time comes to fold the holster over, I first put my Aussie conditioner on the outside, then feed a wet sponge through the inside holster body a couple of time to dampen the leather.   The book advised running water through the holster, but I did that once, and never again.

After sending up a prayer or two to the gods, I bend the leather through the loops.  I then immediately pop the gun into the holster to staighten everything out.

Another coat of conditioner, then remove gun, and leave to dry.   Most time, you get away with it without any marks or loss of definition, and I've used this method with carved holsters.

You can also use a foam shoe spray (whose name escapes me at this time of the morning),    This spray is sold as a leather shoe softener and stretcher.   Just spray the inside of the holster, instead if the water.

Edited June 13, 2017 by LumpenDoodle2

[dikman]

Thanks for the advice, folks. I forgot about the Stohlman books, I have some of them on pdf's somewhere (if I can find them). Looks like I'll have to experiment with some cardboard templates first, to get the pattern sizing right, be a bit embarrassing if I make one and then can't get the holster through the loop!

[LumpenDoodle2]

That's the tricky bit, but if you use one of the Stohlman patterns, you will have to add about 4mm all around thr outside edge of the pattern, and widen the loop cuts.   Otherwise your gun takes to look of a 50 year old man trying to squeeze into his 30 year old wedding suit.

 

Edited June 14, 2017 by LumpenDoodle2

[Josh Ashman]

As for the size of the loop cut my standard practice is to make the holster pattern on vellum printer paper with the pistol centered on a fold line then roll it to the side and trace around the bottom edge. Pretty standard Stohlman holster stuff. I make the edge of the leather 3/4" away from the pistol outline. then when I make the slots for the loop I make them 1/8" wider than the flat paper holster pattern. When I cut the leather out I'll use a 1/8" punch at the ends of the slots and cut an even transition from the hole punch to the slot cut. I've not had a problem getting the holster body tuck back through the slots yet. I typically use 10/11 leather with a single welt. IF you are concerned about the holster being loose in the loop, which really bugs me, then you can tie a thong through the holster body and skirt behind it to keep the holster body from wanting to pull up in the loop whenever the gun is drawn. 

Anyway, that works for me. 

Again, good luck on your project!

Josh

[dikman]

I use 7 1/2" barrelled Remington 1875's. I've made 2 sets of holsters so far and feel it might be time to make what will hopefully be (!) the definitive set that I'll use. I'm sort of moving away from the idea of "fast-draw" holsters (mainly 'cos I've realised I'm no gunfighter!!) and am looking at more traditional styles, hence the interest in Mexican loop designs.

I normally use about 9 oz with a 4-5 oz liner, is that going to be too thick to fold and work through the loops? Would unlined be better? The more I think about this the more questions I think of.

[LumpenDoodle2]

Oooh, that's a lot of leather to bend without damage.    I've done it, once, but not without more problems than it was worth (and fold marks).    That was with a fairly plain holster, but, IMHO, I'd be tempted to leave a Mexican loop holster unlined.  

Checking out 'Packing Iron', I can't say I can see any lined Mexican loop holsters.   Possibly for a reason.

No doubt someone with more experience will come along with a solution.

[Josh Ashman]

Again, just my 2 cents but a total thickness of 13/14 is fine to be bent and formed, it happens in saddle work all of the time. A person could certainly make a lined loop holster with leather that thick. That said, if it were me I'm not sure I'd want to. I like a thick, hefty holster as much as the next person but a total thickness of 10/11 seems plenty thick to me, especially if it were made up of 2 layers back to back.

Your project so of course you should do as you want. I'd ensure to have it well cased when forming to make it easier to form through the loop. 

[Treed]

This one is for a 7.5 inch barrel, 8-9 oz Herman oak with 2-3 oz liner....... do it all the time