Double Gusset Briefcase

[Matt S]

1 hour ago, Shed said:

Thanks! And yep, dyed with my own fair hands with show brown Fieblings pro dye. I made a big dauber out of some old tshirts and just worked the dye over the hide in a circular motion. Didn't penetrate that well compared to using a wool dauber but was suitable for purpose. The grain came out a bit streaky though, as you can see in the first picture. The shoulder was the standard stuff from Le Prevo. I've never actually tried the pre-dyed stuff, since I can't justify keeping a large inventory of colours as well as thicknesses. Do you find it behaves differently in any way?

Well I mostly use bridle, which is a specific type of dyed veg-tan. Compared with russet tooling leather (what most of us mean when we say 'veg tan leather') it does behave quite different. As well as dying the piece has been pressed through a big roller to compress it, the back slicked with a gum solution, and it's been heavily treated with dubbin (wax, tallow and oil) for suppleness and water resistance. Most bridle has been through a tumbling process and is fairly supple before it gets to me. Baker's, on the other hand, is pit-tanned and as far as I know isn't tumbled, which means it's a bit stiffer (though of course it becomes supple soon enough in use if it's a flexing piece like a dog lead or shoulder strap).

As to practical differences... well it's a tad more difficult to burnish the edges because of the tallow content. The Italian bridle is quite greasy so it is a bit of a bugger to burnish, but I have a motorised burnisher so I don't have too much of a problem. Baker's is easy because the core of the leather is fairly dry. Sedgwick is somewhere in the middle. Can't remember about Metropolitan since I've only ever bought one butt off them and that was a few years ago now. All stitch, cut and skive about the same as any other moderately dense veg-tan.

One other practical advantage over certain veg tannages is that the back is always finished, meaning you don't have to line your items.

[Shed]

3 minutes ago, Matt S said:

Well I mostly use bridle, which is a specific type of dyed veg-tan. Compared with russet tooling leather (what most of us mean when we say 'veg tan leather') it does behave quite different. As well as dying the piece has been pressed through a big roller to compress it, the back slicked with a gum solution, and it's been heavily treated with dubbin (wax, tallow and oil) for suppleness and water resistance. Most bridle has been through a tumbling process and is fairly supple before it gets to me. Baker's, on the other hand, is pit-tanned and as far as I know isn't tumbled, which means it's a bit stiffer (though of course it becomes supple soon enough in use if it's a flexing piece like a dog lead or shoulder strap).

As to practical differences... well it's a tad more difficult to burnish the edges because of the tallow content. The Italian bridle is quite greasy so it is a bit of a bugger to burnish, but I have a motorised burnisher so I don't have too much of a problem. Baker's is easy because the core of the leather is fairly dry. Sedgwick is somewhere in the middle. Can't remember about Metropolitan since I've only ever bought one butt off them and that was a few years ago now. All stitch, cut and skive about the same as any other moderately dense veg-tan.

One other practical advantage over certain veg tannages is that the back is always finished, meaning you don't have to line your items.

I'd actually forgotten that bridle is essentially treated veg tan, I do have a half butt of the Metropolitan stuff which comes out when a belt needs making. I don't really like the stuff, as I have a nightmare trying to burnish, even with a homemade power burnisher, as my edges always appear cracked and rough. I didn't know much about how it was made though, that made for a really interesting read, thanks!

[Matt S]

2 hours ago, Shed said:

I'd actually forgotten that bridle is essentially treated veg tan, I do have a half butt of the Metropolitan stuff which comes out when a belt needs making. I don't really like the stuff, as I have a nightmare trying to burnish, even with a homemade power burnisher, as my edges always appear cracked and rough. I didn't know much about how it was made though, that made for a really interesting read, thanks!

Yeah burnishing bridle can be a challenge. My current process is:

(1) quick motor burnish with plain water to consolidate the edge

(2) apply dye, giving it a quick rub with a rag before the alcohol dries

(3) rub on some tallow to keep the fibres down (not too much)

(4) apply burnishing solution, burnishing with the motor while it's still damp. Very easy to burn the leather here so keep bloody alert.

(5) Put some beeswax on (not too much) and rub well in. Repeat a few times if you like.

This is the result of a few years' casual experiments and gives the best balance between initial shine and longevity. It's an ongoing development but pretty much what most saddlers use. (I'm not a saddler, nor do I depict one on TV.) I have found it crucial to always rub in the same direction. Not all leathers respond the same.

[Shed]

15 hours ago, Matt S said:

Yeah burnishing bridle can be a challenge. My current process is:

(1) quick motor burnish with plain water to consolidate the edge

(2) apply dye, giving it a quick rub with a rag before the alcohol dries

(3) rub on some tallow to keep the fibres down (not too much)

(4) apply burnishing solution, burnishing with the motor while it's still damp. Very easy to burn the leather here so keep bloody alert.

(5) Put some beeswax on (not too much) and rub well in. Repeat a few times if you like.

This is the result of a few years' casual experiments and gives the best balance between initial shine and longevity. It's an ongoing development but pretty much what most saddlers use. (I'm not a saddler, nor do I depict one on TV.) I have found it crucial to always rub in the same direction. Not all leathers respond the same.

I'll give that a go. Thanks!

[Lajoie]

I have a quick question about the handle - what is the long metal piece called that you rivet underneath the flap so that it doesn't fold up when you carry it?  Where did you find that?

Thanks so much

[Shed]

On 6/23/2017 at 8:24 PM, Lajoie said:

I have a quick question about the handle - what is the long metal piece called that you rivet underneath the flap so that it doesn't fold up when you carry it?  Where did you find that?

Thanks so much

It's just a simple aluminium bar, doesn't particularly matter the type. mine was 300mm x 30mm x 3mm, which was about right for my bag, with very little flex. I just measured the holes, drilled and countersunk to accept the rivets then glued pigskin over it. I got mine off ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metal-Flat-Bar-Plate-Aluminium-Brass-Mild-Steel-various-sizes-100mm-600mm-/322532527916?var=&hash=item4b186fcf2c 

I'm sure you can get an equivalent over the pond.

Shed.

 

[Northmount]

On 2017-06-23 at 1:24 PM, Lajoie said:

I have a quick question about the handle - what is the long metal piece called that you rivet underneath the flap so that it doesn't fold up when you carry it?  Where did you find that?

Thanks so much

Try Rona, Home Depot, Canadian Tire.  They all have various metal stock in bars, rounds, angles, aluminum, brass, steel, etc.

Tom