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Groover tool question (new to leatherwork)

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So I am just getting into leather work and I ordered a tool kit from Amazon. Turned out some of the tools were cheap quality and the groover doesn't do what it is supposed to. Barely leaves a mark on the leather.

 

Is there a way that I can sharpen the blade so I do not have to purchase a completely new groover? Sorry I couldn't get clearer photos, my camera isn't good at focusing close up 

 

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Yep. Get yourself a scrap of leather.

Cut the groove line. Rub some rouge in the line. Now pull your groover backwards thru the line.

This also works for edging tools.

If it is really really dull you may need to resort to 400 - 1000 grit sandpaper first.

Al Stohlman's leather tools book will show you how to sharpen all of you tools.

We all learn after we get interested in leather, that we also have to learn to sharpen.

Good luck.

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That tool has not been ground enough.  You could spend 40 years with rouge to get a cutting edge. I have 2 or 3 I picked up with other tool sets bought from others. I even bought a new one  they are all in the bottom of the junk box.  You could wast a lot of time trying to make it work, send it back.

Edited by Elliot
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It's true that a skilled craftsman can make even crappy tools work for them, but someone new to the trade like yourself I would really recommend you get a better tool so that later on when you think you're good enough to buy better tools you don't have to re-learn how to do it without compensating for poor quality tools.

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3 hours ago, Elliot said:

That tool has not been ground enough.  You could spend 40 years with rouge to get a cutting edge. I have 2 or 3 I picked up with other tool sets bought from others. I even bought a new one  they are all in the bottom of the junk box.  You could wast a lot of time trying to make it work, send it back.

I agree.  It doesn't look like the hole is even drilled through.  That tool is shit.  Send it back and get a good one.  By good, I mean one by Tandy, Douglas Tools or Danny Marlin.  You don't know how much trouble that tool will cause you even if you get it to work.  This is one of the things you MUST experience properly or you'll always fight it.  Get a new one.

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I don't put tandy and custom makers like Bob Douglas in the same class at all. If you gotta cut a groove, use a good tool. If you're grooving for stitching, I generally don't do that at all, unless there is a mechanical reason the stitches should be recessed. I prefer a slanted stitch and maybe tap it down if it feels a little too proud from the surface. If you're going to stitch in a groove, the stitches will be straight, but maybe that's the look you want.

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1 hour ago, 480volt said:

I don't put tandy and custom makers like Bob Douglas in the same class at all. If you gotta cut a groove, use a good tool. If you're grooving for stitching, I generally don't do that at all, unless there is a mechanical reason the stitches should be recessed. I prefer a slanted stitch and maybe tap it down if it feels a little too proud from the surface. If you're going to stitch in a groove, the stitches will be straight, but maybe that's the look you want.

I used to think that way, but the fact remains, the right tandy groover is just as good.  I have one that is the only one that works for certain applications, and I keep it for those reasons. And lets be honest, a groove is a groove.

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I will politely sort of agree with Mike, I have a Tandy saddle groover, versagroover with a wood handle added on, and an Osborne compass groover, They all work - but the quality control on a Douglas versagroover tip is more consistent than Tandy. Some Tandy tips come ready to use and others are not. The bottom edge of the hole has to be at the leading edge of the bottom. If they are above that, you have no edge. If the leading bevel from the bottom of the tip up to the hole is too steep then you have to hold them at a lower angle and they can "chatter" along instead of cutting a nice ribbon. Grind the bottom down some will make a big difference. These tips can be fixed with a Dremel and/or a belt grinder but that is beyond the scope of most beginning leather workers. Another guy whose skill set with tools I admire had a good comment - "It ain't all in the Stohlman book, is it?"

 . 

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Your right, a groove is a groove and how it got there is irrelevant to the finished piece of work. However, speaking for myself, I love beautiful, well made tools and I really prefer to buy them from makers and companies who I hope manage to stay in business. Since what I do is a hobby, and my purchases aren't driven by bottom line, I will spend more on a tool that I just like the esthetics of and that I know will be correctly profiled and sharpened right out of the flat-rate box. That said, the awl I use most is a Tandy that sharpened up ok, and fits my hand well.

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7 hours ago, bruce johnson said:

I will politely sort of agree with Mike, I have a Tandy saddle groover, versagroover with a wood handle added on, and an Osborne compass groover, They all work - but the quality control on a Douglas versagroover tip is more consistent than Tandy. Some Tandy tips come ready to use and others are not. The bottom edge of the hole has to be at the leading edge of the bottom. If they are above that, you have no edge. If the leading bevel from the bottom of the tip up to the hole is too steep then you have to hold them at a lower angle and they can "chatter" along instead of cutting a nice ribbon. Grind the bottom down some will make a big difference. These tips can be fixed with a Dremel and/or a belt grinder but that is beyond the scope of most beginning leather workers. Another guy whose skill set with tools I admire had a good comment - "It ain't all in the Stohlman book, is it?"

 . 

Lol...sort of?  That's funny!  If you find one that works, use it.  The versa groover is the easiest to use for sure.  Until you try to use it on a friction knife sheath.  I can't make it work.  So Tandy gets the nod.

4 hours ago, 480volt said:

Your right, a groove is a groove and how it got there is irrelevant to the finished piece of work. However, speaking for myself, I love beautiful, well made tools and I really prefer to buy them from makers and companies who I hope manage to stay in business. Since what I do is a hobby, and my purchases aren't driven by bottom line, I will spend more on a tool that I just like the esthetics of and that I know will be correctly profiled and sharpened right out of the flat-rate box. That said, the awl I use most is a Tandy that sharpened up ok, and fits my hand well.

480, you probably don't know me, but I have earned the title of tool whore for the exact same reason.  Almost everything I have is top end, beautiful tools.  I love them.  They feel nice and I like spending money on tools that work.  I only mean that in this case, one of Tandy's groovers has a use.  Plus, I have been accused of influencing folks to buy expensive tools they don't need so I now offer cost effective alternatives too :P

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