Draw gauge

[Sanch]

Quite some time ago I purchased a aluminum frame draw gauge I don't recall the name brand but it did come with a Osborne blade. I am just now starting to use it to cut Belts. When I purchased it initially the Osborne blade that it came with needed a good sharpening and had a very small Tang to it so I added a deer antler handle to facilitate the sharpening process, it works fantastically. Here is a picture of the gauge and the latest belt that I cut out its a 50 inch length out of 12 oz saddle skirting yes it's for a big boy!

also I refinished most of the handle as when it came to me it was pitted and didn't look all that great so I polished it out. Thanks for looking!

[thefanninator]

Good idea and nice touch with the deer antler.

[cjartist]

Looks really sharp (in more ways than one)

Was the draw gauge new when your purchased it, or did that get a shine too?

[Sanch]

4 hours ago, cjartist said:

Looks really sharp (in more ways than one)

Was the draw gauge new when your purchased it, or did that get a shine too?

It was new

[cjartist]

That's cool.  I like shiny metal.  I almost bought an ancient wood and brass one off of ebay once.  But the bidding got too high for me and I lost out.

[billybopp]

I love the idea of putting a handle on the blade to help sharpen and I'm afraid I will have to steal that idea.  Those Osborne blades come dull as can be.  I'm terribly tempted to buy one of Terry Knipschield's draw gauge blades since I've heard such good things about his other blades.  These draw gauges are really great for thicker leather, over about 6oz.  Thinner leathers seem to do better with the wooden strap cutters.

My draw gauge is a brass and rosewood Sauerbier, which by the markings (H.O.S) was made around the time of the Civil War (1855-1870).  I think I got a pretty decent deal on it at around $60, but had to add a blade at about $10.  Functionally it's probably about the same as a new one, but dang it's cool to use it and wonder about its history.  Did somebody use it to cut reins or saddle parts for a Civil War, or WWI cavalry soldier?  I guess I'll never know.

CJArtist - Keep looking!  They occasionally sell for reasonable prices!  There are currently a couple more Civil War era Sauerbiers on ebay, but IMHO they're too high for their condition.  Check Bruce Johnson's website for some history on the markings to help identify 'em.  

Bill

[Sanch]

15 minutes ago, billybopp said:

I love the idea of putting a handle on the blade to help sharpen and I'm afraid I will have to steal that idea.  Those Osborne blades come dull as can be.  I'm terribly tempted to buy one of Terry Knipschield's draw gauge blades since I've heard such good things about his other blades.  These draw gauges are really great for thicker leather, over about 6oz.  Thinner leathers seem to do better with the wooden strap cutters.

My draw gauge is a brass and rosewood Sauerbier, which by the markings (H.O.S) was made around the time of the Civil War (1855-1870).  I think I got a pretty decent deal on it at around $60, but had to add a blade at about $10.  Functionally it's probably about the same as a new one, but dang it's cool to use it and wonder about its history.  Did somebody use it to cut reins or saddle parts for a Civil War, or WWI cavalry soldier?  I guess I'll never know.

CJArtist - Keep looking!  They occasionally sell for reasonable prices!  There are currently a couple more Civil War era Sauerbiers on ebay, but IMHO they're too high for their condition.  Check Bruce Johnson's website for some history on the markings to help identify 'em.  

Bill

I paid $12 for it. Wasn't looking for a collectable item just a functional one. Once the Osbourne blade visited my Japanese hones it was good to go and now just a couple of passes on my canvas strop and it's perfect.

[Northmount]

Round off the top end of the blade, helps to avoid accidental injuries.  The top end of the blade is of no use when cutting, so no harm to the functionality of your drawgauge.

Tom

 

[Sanch]

3 hours ago, northmount said:

Round off the top end of the blade, helps to avoid accidental injuries.  The top end of the blade is of no use when cutting, so no harm to the functionality of your drawgauge.

Tom

 

Thanks for the suggestion but rather than molest the blade I just run it point down when I'm feeling funky about it plus it allows me to use the majority of the blade without having to strop. I rarely use it more than once or twice in a month! 

[Northmount]

17 hours ago, Sanch said:

Thanks for the suggestion but rather than molest the blade I just run it point down when I'm feeling funky about it plus it allows me to use the majority of the blade without having to strop. I rarely use it more than once or twice in a month! 

" I usually round over the point at the top. I never cut with it and that is what has bit me when I have reached across. " See this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/38698-tips-on-how-to-use-a-draw-gauge/?do=findComment&comment=240356

I've never clipped myself, but figure Bruce's comment is quite wise.  Voice of experience.  I like to reduce risk where I can.  I'm a little adverse to slashing my wrist.  And you really don't use that top 1/4" as it's not accessible to cut with, other than your wrist!

Tom

[Sanch]

4 hours ago, northmount said:

" I usually round over the point at the top. I never cut with it and that is what has bit me when I have reached across. " See this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/38698-tips-on-how-to-use-a-draw-gauge/?do=findComment&comment=240356

I've never clipped myself, but figure Bruce's comment is quite wise.  Voice of experience.  I like to reduce risk where I can.  I'm a little adverse to slashing my wrist.  And you really don't use that top 1/4" as it's not accessible to cut with, other than your wrist!

Tom

Yup words of wisdom not to be taken lightly from either him nor you thanks again I may reconsider it! Although running the blade upside down with the handle up seems to be just as safe as clipping the tip, who knows! Thanks for the responses