Chayse Report post Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) So I found some time to get to work on my table for my Chandler 305-64 cylinder arm machine....which is rare..just due to the fact that I have many projects going on at one time. Here is a pic of the table how I got it..typical formica and the previous owner had cut the table for some reason, which caused the table to tilt, given the weight of the machine when mounted. I knew I had to do something, so I first ditched the formica for some birch, which is 1.5" thick. I cut, sanded, routed,, and then finally stained and added a couple of coats of poly for protection. Here is how I got the machine.. I dug through my scrap and found some 1" tube and cut it to length. I choose to tig weld it for the sole reason that I haven't done it for a while...and it shows! I definitely need to get back to tig welding because it is relaxing and I truly enjoy it. I set out to fab up an outer support with adjustable legs or feet. This is what I have come up with and thought I would share. The tabs are 1/8" stainless that I had laying around...also from the scrap bin. When welding plain carbon steel to stainless, 309L filler is your go to material! Edited July 17, 2017 by Chayse Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 17, 2017 More pics... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) All finished...painted and bolted together. I choose to bolt it if one day it may need to be broken down and moved. I figured I would throw in a pic of a re-purposed sewing machine motor that I fabbed into a tungsten grinder...works fantastic! The parts of the 'hand' are all old sewing machine parts...the fingers are stainless bolts..I needed a place to hang my hood and rest my torch when I weld. Edited July 17, 2017 by Chayse Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted July 17, 2017 Nice job and well done. Lucky you had the bolt hand to help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 17, 2017 Thanks @RockyAussie, it is always nice to have an extra hand to help!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted July 17, 2017 Looks good! That original setup would need to be bolted to the floor, I reckon, doesn't look particularly stable to me!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted July 17, 2017 I'd love more details on your grinder. Oh, and the table looks great (and the 'helping hand'). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 18, 2017 @LumpenDoodle2..here are the details you are after..pretty easy and not at all complicated. Parts list: Retired sewing machine motor (mine came out of a plastic Brother home machine) Coupling nut with a couple set screws El cheapo diamond wheel ( we have a cheap tool store in the states ..Harbor Freight) Find a coupling nut that fits the shaft of the motor (or at least close) and attach using a couple set screws. Attach your diamond wheel....just know that once you turn it on, it will spin up to max rpm. You can't limit the speed by adding in a potentiometer to regulate the speed. Also, another option for wiring is to keep the original wiring, complete with the pedal..it has a built in potentiometer! Here are some pics for reference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted July 18, 2017 Many thanks, the hubby has been after something like this for something he has been working on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 21, 2017 I took some time after class each night and slowly plugged away at getting the machine, table, and motor put back together. Everything works as I imagined and the true test will be when I sew with this beast. As of this moment, the only needles I have are NM 200/25, so I will need to order some thicker thread to test sew with when the time comes. I will definitely need to start educating myself when it comes to what needles use what thread...all in due time I guess. So, here is how it sits now. The pedal I am using is just your average electric $10 sewing machine pedal. I modified it (gutted it) to accommodate the slide potentiometer that I am using with the motor. The motor is just a 90vdc treadmill motor and controller. So far, I have good control, being able to really control the speed as it sews. Thanks to @Davidmadd for jarring my brain when it comes to using these motors...it never crossed my mind, even though I have one on my metal lathe!! I did reduce the size of the motor pulley down to 2", as to slow the machine down a bit more. Top speed is still a bit to fast for me but I did limit the amount of travel of the potentiometer, as to help me keep it nice and controlled. I will end up pulling the cover off the switch plate and repainting it, just a metal box I had in the garage. On thing I did not take into consideration is room for the bobbin winder, so a standalone is in the works now! As I finished up, I couldn't help but to see what this thing would do, so I put in a needle and started with a single piece of 8oz, it punched through it easily...so, I fold it in half, and it didn't blink an eye. I think this just might work for what I want to do! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted July 21, 2017 Will you be refitting the pedal foot lift, or a knee lift. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted July 21, 2017 If you can find a larger pulley to replace the handwheel you'll slow it down even more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 21, 2017 @LumpenDoodle2..I will retro fit the presser foot pedal, as the previous owner had it 'jerry-rigged'...I will definitely come up with a better system! @dikman--right now, I can get it to sew a single stitch at a time, so it is slow enough..just have to get accustomed to that small pedal. The pedal on my tig welder is 2x the size, so just need to get comfortable with it. I will update as things progress! Thanks for Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 22, 2017 (edited) So after class today, I set out to correct a mistake I made when it comes to my table and machine....failing to plan for properly allowing enough room for my bobbin winder. I briefly thought about a standalone but figured I could come up with something if I just sat back and looked at it for a bit. For my bobbin winder to fit on the table, I would have to modify it...so after positioning it here and there, I found a good spot and then modified the bracket by cutting off a corner. Then I removed the OEM wheel that would normally make contact with the belt and replaced it with a shaft collar. I then found that the set screw made contact with the belt and didn't allow for a smooth rotation...hmmm? I sifted through my odds and ends and found a 1/2" vacuum line cap...wedged it on and cut off the excess. This allowed for a smoother rotation and it was now rubber-on-rubber. Due to modifying the corner of the bracket, I lost the ability for the new 'wheel' to come in contact with the 'brake' to stop it after it had disengaged. So, back to the odds and ends drawer! I found a bracket of some sort and made a couple of bends to bring it up to the proper level to engage the new wheel. Long story short, this is what I ended up doing to allow the bobbin winder to be mounted back on that table. I will add a tension assembly in front of the winder, so that it will feed and fill the bobbin as it should. The pics are in order of what I have tried to describe up above! Edited July 22, 2017 by Chayse Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted July 22, 2017 Nice bit of fettling. As an aside, my 31K20 came with the winder in two parts, I assume you have the other bit to feed the thread? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 22, 2017 Thanks @dikman..unfortunately I do not have the second half of the winder...was not on the table when I bought it. So...I will have to re-create the second half that is in your picture..looks easy enough to do. I will run up to my friends sewing machine repair shop and source all of the parts (tension assembly, thread guide) and come up with something that is close to what is in your picture. Sooner or later I will be able to use this thing!! Still waiting on thread, as NO ONE has it locally, so had to be ordered. After that, I will move it inside out of the garage to it's new home! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 22, 2017 I am mistaken @dikman..looking at the pictures I posted above..I do have it...or parts of it! I am now on a mission to find what I may have done with it.......? Thanks for the picture, as I would have totally forgotten about that piece if you had not of mentioned it!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted July 23, 2017 No worries, glad I could contribute something useful. I figure the post on the front part of mine is for small spools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted July 23, 2017 How would any of us survive without our 'odds and ends' drawer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted July 24, 2017 Drawer? Mine goes well beyond a "drawer"! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) @dikman..i feel ya...mine I call the 'garage'! So, after working on my main project ( I am trying to get it out of my garage for awhile), I found about an hour to work on the 305. As luck would have it or by mistake...however you look at it...the extension I made for the side is exactly the size I needed to mount the normal foot pedal! Instead of it mounting under the table...which was very uncomfortable and in a bad spot, I moved it out to the extension. Drilled a couple holes and mounted the pedal. Found an old bicycle brake cable I had and attached it to the pedal, then to the presser foot lift on the back of the machine. I was very surprised it went together like it did...guess a blind squirrel can find a nut every once and awhile!! It works like a charm and since my control pedal for the motor is 6+ feet, I am not forced to be in front of the machine to sew. I will add some non-slip tape to the pedal just for good measure. Edited July 24, 2017 by Chayse Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted July 24, 2017 Looks like it was meant. There you are, high praise from a Scot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted July 24, 2017 Obviously good design right from the start! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 24, 2017 Thanks @LumpenDoodle2 and @dikman! It has been a long time coming to get it to this point. I will just chalk this one up to being lucky! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chayse Report post Posted July 26, 2017 Ok, one last little mod that I stumbled across while surfing the web..it is a much needed help as my vision has began to dwindle...at least with objects close up. This is really nothing new but thought I would throw it up here. I stopped by the local auto store on the way home a grabbed a set of LED lights for a car...2, 4" strips containing 4 LEDs each. Each strip will connect to one another and both have 3M adhesive tape for mounting. I merely grabbed an extra 12v wall transformer from one of my old cell phones and hardwired it in...attaching the strip underneath the main part of the head. Here is the result...with the garage lights on and off. Will definitely help and I will plan on installing these on all of my machines...total cost $19. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
