Members Chayse Posted July 17, 2017 Members Report Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) So I found some time to get to work on my table for my Chandler 305-64 cylinder arm machine....which is rare..just due to the fact that I have many projects going on at one time. Here is a pic of the table how I got it..typical formica and the previous owner had cut the table for some reason, which caused the table to tilt, given the weight of the machine when mounted. I knew I had to do something, so I first ditched the formica for some birch, which is 1.5" thick. I cut, sanded, routed,, and then finally stained and added a couple of coats of poly for protection. Here is how I got the machine.. I dug through my scrap and found some 1" tube and cut it to length. I choose to tig weld it for the sole reason that I haven't done it for a while...and it shows! I definitely need to get back to tig welding because it is relaxing and I truly enjoy it. I set out to fab up an outer support with adjustable legs or feet. This is what I have come up with and thought I would share. The tabs are 1/8" stainless that I had laying around...also from the scrap bin. When welding plain carbon steel to stainless, 309L filler is your go to material! Edited July 17, 2017 by Chayse Quote
Members Chayse Posted July 17, 2017 Author Members Report Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) All finished...painted and bolted together. I choose to bolt it if one day it may need to be broken down and moved. I figured I would throw in a pic of a re-purposed sewing machine motor that I fabbed into a tungsten grinder...works fantastic! The parts of the 'hand' are all old sewing machine parts...the fingers are stainless bolts..I needed a place to hang my hood and rest my torch when I weld. Edited July 17, 2017 by Chayse Quote
RockyAussie Posted July 17, 2017 Report Posted July 17, 2017 Nice job and well done. Lucky you had the bolt hand to help. Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members Chayse Posted July 17, 2017 Author Members Report Posted July 17, 2017 Thanks @RockyAussie, it is always nice to have an extra hand to help!! Quote
Members dikman Posted July 17, 2017 Members Report Posted July 17, 2017 Looks good! That original setup would need to be bolted to the floor, I reckon, doesn't look particularly stable to me!! Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members LumpenDoodle2 Posted July 17, 2017 Members Report Posted July 17, 2017 I'd love more details on your grinder. Oh, and the table looks great (and the 'helping hand'). Quote “Equality? Political correctness gone mad, I tell you, gone mad!!!! Next they'll be wanting the vote!!!!! “. Anger and intolerance are the enemy of correct understanding
Members Chayse Posted July 18, 2017 Author Members Report Posted July 18, 2017 @LumpenDoodle2..here are the details you are after..pretty easy and not at all complicated. Parts list: Retired sewing machine motor (mine came out of a plastic Brother home machine) Coupling nut with a couple set screws El cheapo diamond wheel ( we have a cheap tool store in the states ..Harbor Freight) Find a coupling nut that fits the shaft of the motor (or at least close) and attach using a couple set screws. Attach your diamond wheel....just know that once you turn it on, it will spin up to max rpm. You can't limit the speed by adding in a potentiometer to regulate the speed. Also, another option for wiring is to keep the original wiring, complete with the pedal..it has a built in potentiometer! Here are some pics for reference. Quote
Members LumpenDoodle2 Posted July 18, 2017 Members Report Posted July 18, 2017 Many thanks, the hubby has been after something like this for something he has been working on. Quote “Equality? Political correctness gone mad, I tell you, gone mad!!!! Next they'll be wanting the vote!!!!! “. Anger and intolerance are the enemy of correct understanding
Members Chayse Posted July 21, 2017 Author Members Report Posted July 21, 2017 I took some time after class each night and slowly plugged away at getting the machine, table, and motor put back together. Everything works as I imagined and the true test will be when I sew with this beast. As of this moment, the only needles I have are NM 200/25, so I will need to order some thicker thread to test sew with when the time comes. I will definitely need to start educating myself when it comes to what needles use what thread...all in due time I guess. So, here is how it sits now. The pedal I am using is just your average electric $10 sewing machine pedal. I modified it (gutted it) to accommodate the slide potentiometer that I am using with the motor. The motor is just a 90vdc treadmill motor and controller. So far, I have good control, being able to really control the speed as it sews. Thanks to @Davidmadd for jarring my brain when it comes to using these motors...it never crossed my mind, even though I have one on my metal lathe!! I did reduce the size of the motor pulley down to 2", as to slow the machine down a bit more. Top speed is still a bit to fast for me but I did limit the amount of travel of the potentiometer, as to help me keep it nice and controlled. I will end up pulling the cover off the switch plate and repainting it, just a metal box I had in the garage. On thing I did not take into consideration is room for the bobbin winder, so a standalone is in the works now! As I finished up, I couldn't help but to see what this thing would do, so I put in a needle and started with a single piece of 8oz, it punched through it easily...so, I fold it in half, and it didn't blink an eye. I think this just might work for what I want to do! Quote
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