First airbrush attempt

[alpha2]

Finally got to use the airbrush. Dark brown on light brown. Nothing earth shattering, just an experiment. I should have gone darker on the edges. The contrast was a bit better before I used my magic sauce (beeswax, paraffin, neatsfoot oil) on it. I learned that I can't thin the dark brown enough to get it to spray through the #1 needle/nozzle. I cranked the psi up to 40+ before it sprayed, then it was intermittent. It just backed up into the jar. I strained the dye, too. Still, the #2 worked fine.

It certainly saves on dye over swabbing it on!

[alpha2]

Here's one without the flash, much better rendering of the contrast!

[Grey Drakkon]

The effect IS subtle, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.  It will probably look awesome the more it ages.

[Boriqua]

When you air brush some colors atop another they deceive you. I have found that if I do a halo with the dark brown or mahogany that it can look great and then when I wet mold ... the cool effect is a little less dramatic than I would like.

What I do now to ensure the final is close to what was in my head is after I spray my halo on whatever base color .. I let it dry an hour or so and then buff it well. Then spray it again.

This is speculation since I am not studying it at a microscopic level but it seems that when I spray the halo on to dyed dry leather I dont get the same penetration so alot of the pigment that is in the suspension sits on top. When you look at it you beam with pride at how cool it looks but once you wet it that surface pigment kind of comes off and you are left with what actually penetrated.

Since I started doing it the way I describe above my end product is pretty close to what I intended. I don't mind happy accidents but as craftsman we should strive to make repeatable techniques so that we are in control of the final product.

The holster looks great though and Grey is right it will get more dramatic with a little use especially since you used wax.

Edited July 20, 2017 by Boriqua

[JLSleather]

How small is your  tip?  I've never had any trouble blowing full-strength dark brown and chocolate through a #1 tip with Paasche VL.

This one is done with a #3 tip, because I had that one handy and didn't need any precision at all.  The one on the table is - I think - the #5 tip/needle, and I do have a couple with the #1 tip for smaller work.

Edited July 20, 2017 by JLSleather

[blink1688]

Looks pretty good to me. As already stated, it'll probably only get better with age.

What are the ratios in your magic sauce?

[alpha2]

I tried the #1 tip that came with the airbrush, the same that you have, Paasche VL. I may try it again today, since it works for you. Thinking back, I noticed that the nut was rough, compared to the #2 that was on the brush new. I may have not tightened it enough to the brush, which would likely prevent the siphon action. 

As I recall, the magic mix was 60/40 beeswax/neatsfoot oil, then added the paraffin later when I read about it on this forum. The consistency is like that of "waxy butter"...for want of a better description!

Thanks for the replies and tips, guys and gals!

 

Jeff

[JLSleather]

There's a "nut"?  You may have the VLS model?

 

[Boriqua]

I  am in a little shock at the moment ....

Jeff .. A video!! WTH .. everything about life is now in question. 

Anyway .. Jeff does his fade after wet mold so the colors are staying fresher. I usually do the fade before wetmold so go with a little extra dye. I just like doing as much dying as I can with a flat piece.

[JLSleather]

Nope, neither of those is formed yet  

And the video is to show how simple that is AND maybe poke a bit of fun at those who love to tell you how "difficult" it is to make a video!

A video that looks pretty on the surface but doesn't actually show you what you came to ask is like a classic car immaculately painted.  With no transmission 

AFTER FORMING

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by JLSleather

[alpha2]

I guess "head" is the proper term. This part may have been just a bit loose. Not sure, I'll be checking it out soon.

I'd seen that video at some point, I didn't realize who had done it. When I saw the part about the pattern, I thought "this guy is trolling JLS, that's funny as heck!"  Now that I see it's him, it's even funnier.

 

Not surprisingly, the instructions for laying out a pancake style holster worked out perfectly. I reduced the extra leather around the belt holes a bit just to make the holster less massive, it's for a skinny chick. 

Edited July 20, 2017 by alpha2

[JLSleather]

Is that like "trolling" for walleye?@!

You have a newer model than mine, but the tips and needles are the same.  You wanna make sure that the Tip is lined up correctly before tightening that 'head'.  I generally hold it vertical, then when you screw it on slowly the lead angle will line it up right.

These are decent brushes and will last forever long as you don't use em for a pry bar.

 

[Sanch]

Paashe VL are good cheaper brushes as with any tool that has "precision" parts routine maintenance is your friend.  I used paashe for 3 weeks back in the late 90's then I tried an Iwata HPC+ and never looked back. Iwata also makes many siphon feed that would fit "our" uses.

[alpha2]

Problem solved. I tightened down the head a bit more, and it's flawless now. I tested it with some more from the same jar of dk. brown mix, like buttah'. So I sprayed some resolene/water on a knife sheath, the holster, and a recent belt. WooHoo! I'm on a roll...like buttah'.

[billybopp]

Dyes usually go with no problems.   You might want to filter resolene a bit since it can get gloppy in a hurry, and don't let it sit around for long.

Bill

[alpha2]

I strain the Resolene. And everything that I spray. A little time spent before, saves a LOT of time when you're trying to spray.

[Boriqua]

Here is how I handle my resolene. I mix resolene with 50-60% water and put it in a condiment bottle I get at the dollar store. While you are in there by the biggest pantyhose you can find. I usually only mix up about 1/2 -2/3 bottle at a time and each time I make a new batch I cut a new piece of pantyhose and hold it tight over the mouth as I screw down the top. I use primarily a gravity feed brush so I just undue the nipple and pour a little in the bowl. Has worked for me for a couple of years now. Still working on the original pantyhose.

 

[JLSleather]

If'n I got pantyhose and nipples on my table, prolly not usin' resolene (or even an airbrush) 

But yeah.. distilled water and resolene 50/50 ish in a mustard bottle.  If it goobers up (which usually don't have time to happen, but it has once/twice) I just pitch it, mix a new batch, off I go ...

A gravity feed brush might be a little more sensitive about this, honestly.  With a syphon model (the VL) I just 'backblow' the boogers, flush with distilled water.. viola.  But then, I have one brush that does nothing but spray finishes, so worst case it gets plugged and I have to ream it out (which has not happened, but I know it "could").