Comparing Edge Finishes

[gigi]

I think some edge finishes work best on veg-tan, while others are meant for chrome-leathers. I don't know if any of those brands are suited for all types of leather. 

[garypl]

Thanks for the photo Brian and comments on the Giardini.  I spent just a few minutes yesterday with a small pallet knife heated with a small alcohol lamp (I use this for applying stick shellac when repairing finishes on wood projects) testing how it smoothed the edge finishes.  It did not feel like it did anything to the Edge Kote, but I could see and feel it melting and smoothing the Angelus and Giardini edges.  I want to do more testing and will publish more photos with the results.

Gigi - good point - I have only worked with these on veg tan, but I have some chrome tan and will use the finishes on that as well and compare with the veg tan.

 

[NVLeatherWorx]

I have tried the Fenice and am not overly impressed with it.  I find that it takes several applications just to get the look that I want and solid coverage and I can't find myself investing that much time in finishing the edges.  So, as a result of that, I have returned to the old school (original teachings here) way of doing things: water, my ancient wooden slicker, and some good old elbow grease.  This gives me the glowing finish that I want and then I run a small dauber with some dye on it down and around and done.  Every time I give some of this newfangled stuff a try I just can't understand where some find it to be a quicker or better method.  Nothing beats just having a true finished leather edge; nothing to crack, peel, or rub off because the dye has penetrated deep into the fibers and the edge has been burnished naturally to a solid finish.

[garypl]

2 hours ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

I have tried the Fenice and am not overly impressed with it.  I find that it takes several applications just to get the look that I want and solid coverage and I can't find myself investing that much time in finishing the edges.  So, as a result of that, I have returned to the old school (original teachings here) way of doing things: water, my ancient wooden slicker, and some good old elbow grease.  This gives me the glowing finish that I want and then I run a small dauber with some dye on it down and around and done.  Every time I give some of this newfangled stuff a try I just can't understand where some find it to be a quicker or better method.  Nothing beats just having a true finished leather edge; nothing to crack, peel, or rub off because the dye has penetrated deep into the fibers and the edge has been burnished naturally to a solid finish.

I agree Richard, that on thicker edges it is easier for me to burnish/dye.  When I use very thin leather that is not easy to burnish, I like to use the edge paint - I get better looking edges this way.  Small items like checkbook covers, eyeglass cases and other projects using thin veg tan - I also do this as a hobby, so I'm not particularly concerned about spending time on these type projects!  Gary

[NVLeatherWorx]

5 minutes ago, garypl said:

I agree Richard, that on thicker edges it is easier for me to burnish/dye.  When I use very thin leather that is not easy to burnish, I like to use the edge paint - I get better looking edges this way.  Small items like checkbook covers, eyeglass cases and other projects using thin veg tan - I also do this as a hobby, so I'm not particularly concerned about spending time on these type projects!  Gary

I even hand burnish/finish 2 to 3 oz. leather, the trick there is to NOT edge it, just burnish it as it is.  Doesn't take as much pressure and time either as it is so thin and quick to heat up to get the proper sheen.  We all have our ways of doing things and I always end up back at the beginning of my training and education in this trade and rely on my 40+ years of hands-on experience; it is nice to learn something new though that actually can find a way into my program.

[garypl]

3 minutes ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

I even hand burnish/finish 2 to 3 oz. leather, the trick there is to NOT edge it, just burnish it as it is.  Doesn't take as much pressure and time either as it is so thin and quick to heat up to get the proper sheen.  We all have our ways of doing things and I always end up back at the beginning of my training and education in this trade and rely on my 40+ years of hands-on experience; it is nice to learn something new though that actually can find a way into my program.

How do you hold the thin edges to get a good burnish?  I find it difficult to burnish when the leather is soft - maybe it's just the less than ideal quality leather I am using?  I'm trying to improve my skills and I appreciate the tips and suggestions I receive from everyone who contributes in this forum - thank you!

[Mattsbagger]

I will lay it on the edge of my stone and use canvas on the thin stuff.

1 hour ago, garypl said:

How do you hold the thin edges to get a good burnish?  I find it difficult to burnish when the leather is soft - maybe it's just the less than ideal quality leather I am using?  I'm trying to improve my skills and I appreciate the tips and suggestions I receive from everyone who contributes in this forum - thank you!

 

[gigi]

Giardini has a user guide on their website but you need to register in order to download it:  

http://info.leatheredgepaint.com/how-to-achieve-the-highest-quality-on-your-leather-edge

[NVLeatherWorx]

3 hours ago, garypl said:

How do you hold the thin edges to get a good burnish?  I find it difficult to burnish when the leather is soft - maybe it's just the less than ideal quality leather I am using?  I'm trying to improve my skills and I appreciate the tips and suggestions I receive from everyone who contributes in this forum - thank you!

Hold the leather between your index finger and thumb about a 1/2" from the edge; make sure that your leather has started to return to the drier side and then carefully burnish the edges.  I have found over the years that when someone came to me with a problem trying to get a good burnish on their edges that they were trying to work the leather while it was still too wet.  You have to wait until the edges are almost dry (just like when stamping or carving & tooling) in order to get a good a result.  This why people also have issues with beveling and pear shading when doing tooled patterns; it makes all the difference in the world.

[garypl]

4 hours ago, Mattsbagger said:

I will lay it on the edge of my stone and use canvas on the thin stuff.

 

Thanks Mattsbagger - I will try your technique!

3 hours ago, gigi said:

Giardini has a user guide on their website but you need to register in order to download it:  

http://info.leatheredgepaint.com/how-to-achieve-the-highest-quality-on-your-leather-edge

Thanks Gigi - I will download the manual!

1 hour ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

Hold the leather between your index finger and thumb about a 1/2" from the edge; make sure that your leather has started to return to the drier side and then carefully burnish the edges.  I have found over the years that when someone came to me with a problem trying to get a good burnish on their edges that they were trying to work the leather while it was still too wet.  You have to wait until the edges are almost dry (just like when stamping or carving & tooling) in order to get a good a result.  This why people also have issues with beveling and pear shading when doing tooled patterns; it makes all the difference in the world.

Thanks for the tips Richard - I will certainly try out your suggestions!