Singer 111W155 Rehab

[Cbm]

I really shouldnt have had to replace so many things when I am finished this machine will be virtually new the main feed bar was cracked the presser bar was cracked the thread release bracket etc etc I accurately put everything back together thanks to mr.grosse,s videos and the navy manual but unsure on eccentric.

[SheltathaLore]

On the upside, nothing that could possibly go wrong with this machine in the future will ever scare you.  You're an expert now!

[jimi]

i found for taking the pins out, go in from the back of them, bend them straight again (they are usually bent from the inside) with a long screwdriver then tap them out a little with the flat side of the screwdriver, hitting the stem of the screwdriver that is protruding from the hole of the body (that is why i said long screwdriver). then you can grip them easier instead of prying.

[Cbm]

thanks i dont know about that but definately learning quickly

[Kryptonite]

Jimi, great tip on straightening the pins from the inside. I'm going to try that!

Cbm, did you get it working right?

If not, try this...

Your presser foot lift height is controlled by the Eccentric Cam LIFT or wobble. Regardless of the position the Cam sits on the upper shaft, adjust the Cam LIFT to a middle position within it's range of motion. The LIFT can be really high to zero (actually negative), so figure out how it moves and put it in the middle, i.e. +5 out of ten. There are 2 screws used to adjust the LIFT. One is a lock screw which you can remove for the adjustment, and the other adjusts the LIFT of the cam by turning it clockwise or counterclockwise. Count the turns and put it in the middle. That should get it about right. In my case it was perfect, dumb luck with just one adjustment. From a design standpoint you have to figure Singer would machine a cam with the same range of adjustability both above and below the ideal LIFT position so that is a good place to start.  

After the pressers are lifting the right amount then time the middle presser with the needle to land on the product at the same time. This is done by rotating the Cam on the upper shaft. Two Setscrews hold it in position on the shaft

The Pinch Screw is used to equalize the inner and out presser lift - so the feet are lifting the same height. 

Hope it helps,

Will in Central Florida 

 

 

[Kryptonite]

A shout out to Bob at Toledo Ind. Sewing for making this great reducer pulley. I can slow a stitch to an absolute crawl.  

Will

[Cbm]

Thanks will this fixed it it works now

[Turnaround]

Per Kryptonite's mention of the "add on" transmission to slow the speed of our walking foot machines.  My add on transmission and extra belt, seems to have changed the mechanical advantage of the motor so much, that, when I try to rotate the handwheel, to line up the needle during a partial stitch,  the original Juki LU-563"s handwheel is pretty much impossible to turn, .  My "work around," when I need to hand turn and move the needle position a little, is to pick up the sewing machine "head" an inch or two, and then stick a large, plastic, screw driver handle between the head and the table.  Jacking up the head releases the belt tension a little, which allows me to hand turn the machine like I could before I added the accessory transmission (please understand, I dearly love this transmission and smaller clutch motor pulley) for slowing the feed about six to one slower.  Although it might be a little too slow if and when I get better at sewing.   Maybe changing to a "servo motor" instead of fooling with an "add on transmission" and "clutch motor" would have been a better choice?  

I do remember reading somewhere, a recommendation about not using an automobile fan belt, because the sewing machine operator needs the drive belt to slip a little, so maybe my belt is just gripping the pulleys too well.  I am new at this, and have never seen a sewing machine belt, so how are they different?  Round instead of Vee?.  

Any body got a better idea, like maybe adapting a six pound, big hugger large diameter handwheel off a Sailrite sewing machine?  

[dikman]

If you operate the foot pedal just a little (not enough to engage the clutch) it should release the brake in the clutch motor, allowing the pulley to turn.

[Kryptonite]

I can turn my handwheel enough to move the needle/stitches without to much trouble, but it is stiff. A little less belt tension might help you get some pressure off the handwheel so it will move for you. I would at least try that. For multiple hand stitches I have been lifting the head and removing the v-belt. Auto V-belts work ok. I just happen to have a Sailrite 6 pound handwheel. Mounting problems aside, I don't see it as an fix. You are still going to have the high belt tension and now even more weight to start rotating, more force required.

Cheers,

Will in Central Florida 

[TXJax]

On 9/3/2017 at 4:02 PM, Uwe said:

I mentioned that feed rod alignment in my video as a workaround for machines where the opposing arrow plate is missing. If you have both arrows, use just them. 

I just checked five of my machines and on every single one of them the feed dog is in its front-most position when the take-up lever is at its highest point. I doubt that the correlation is a coincidence and have a strong feeling that the correlation is one of those general, if unwritten, rules that apply to many sewing machines. It's a quick sanity check, if nothing else.

Your machine may well have multiple issues that need to be corrected. Following Eric's advice is your best bet. 

OMG, Uwe, I love you!!!!

I bought a 111w155 off ebay.  It had a broken feed rocker shaft.   

I bought the new shaft but could not figure out the correct position of the feed dog!   Your video showed me that the stitch regulator was off a little, and that the feed dog was off. 

Now my machine walks properly!!   THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!

If you have a machine that seems to feed backward, check that your safety clutch "S" screw is in the groove, and that the stitch regulator "S" screw is in the groove.   

[Wyowally]

I actually bought a new replacement eccentric just so I could understand how they're designed to work. Never had to install it though.