Seam allowance and sewing technique around corners

[Willbury]

I'm looking for some advice in regards to sewing curved corners into bags.   See picture below of one I've just sewn.

Typically I've been using a 1/2" seam allowance, but I'm finding it may be too much when doing this type of corner.  The material lines up along the stitch line but is much too tight at the outer edge of the seam allowance.  It's a real battle to sew it like this and things tend to move around. 

Solutions I see are, a smaller seam allowance or cutting perpendicular slits in the seam allowance around the corner.

Id really like to hear how others are doing this as I'm self taught and just haven't seen how it's done. 

Thanks in advance!

Will

 

[garypl]

When sewing bags like this I have cut small "v" slots on the curved portion to eliminate the bunching up.  Works especially well for a bag with a lining.

[Willbury]

Just now, garypl said:

When sewing bags like this I have cut small "v" slots on the curved portion to eliminate the bunching up.  Works especially well for a bag with a lining.

How wide is your seam allowance and how close to stitch line do the "v" slots go?    Oh and how close together do you make the slots?

 

[garypl]

If my memory is correct I used @ 3/8" - 1/2"seam allowance.  As I fit the gusset to the front and rear panels I cut the slots right up to the edge.  I fold the front and rear edges of the gusset over and pre-punch holes in the gusset and the front and rear panels,  I then start saddle stitching starting at one end and when I get to the curve I snip the small V slots right up to the stitch line as I go around the curve to allow the gusset to bend more easily.

[Willbury]

3 minutes ago, garypl said:

If my memory is correct I used @ 3/8" - 1/2"seam allowance.  As I fit the gusset to the front and rear panels I cut the slots right up to the edge.  I fold the front and rear edges of the gusset over and pre-punch holes in the gusset and the front and rear panels,  I then start saddle stitching starting at one end and when I get to the curve I snip the small V slots right up to the stitch line as I go around the curve to allow the gusset to bend more easily.

Interesting I wouldn't have assumed the slots went right up to the stitch line.

 I'm machine stitching these so I would need to pre-cut the slots, and either glue or clamp it together before stitching.

Thanks for sharing! 

[Mark842]

4 hours ago, Willbury said:

I wouldn't have assumed the slots went right up to the stitch line.

I use a 1/2" allowance usually. I cut slits for turns on things like piping where the outside edge needs to spread to not bind or bunch. On inside turns like your referring to I cut out little pie shaped notches. How close the notches are together depends on how tight the corner is. Just play with it until there is no binding.

I do not cut my notches right up to the stitch line. I cut them about an 1/8" short of the stitch line. If you cut them right up to the stitch line it is inevitable that something will shift on you and you will have a stitch go into a notch creating a weak spot and or something that will show.

[Willbury]

17 minutes ago, Mark842 said:

I use a 1/2" allowance usually. I cut slits for turns on things like piping where the outside edge needs to spread to not bind or bunch. On inside turns like your referring to I cut out little pie shaped notches. How close the notches are together depends on how tight the corner is. Just play with it until there is no binding.

I do not cut my notches right up to the stitch line. I cut them about an 1/8" short of the stitch line. If you cut them right up to the stitch line it is inevitable that something will shift on you and you will have a stitch go into a notch creating a weak spot and or something that will show.

Ok that makes total sense with the pies vs fans for compassion vs stretch.   

I have been running binding tape over the seam after sewing so I guess that will get a bit scrunched up after turning the bag.  Not such a big deal I suppose. 

Thanks for the insight! 

[motocouture]

I use about a 5 mm seam allowance, and cut little 'pies' out as well. When drafting the pattern, I try to make sure that the actual seam lengths match, then add on a seam allowance (with a few key marks), so that they match correctly as you line up the corner

[jimmy eng]

In dressmaking we cut slits (either vertically or diagonally depending on movement) or cut a 'V' shape if the corner is too tight in two methods. First is to cut the slits through both layers in the same place and the other is to alternate the slits one each layer which you could do on this bag. Alternating the cuts will visually look more appealing if you will see the seam from the inside as each cut has a solid layer in front/behind it so the curve doesn't look like it has a cut in it. If you need to reduce the bulk further you can also cut half of one layers seam too. And skiving would help too.

When you are turning the bag inside out are you pushing the seam out too much as well? The stitching is showing.

[Willbury]

Finally circling back to this thread I started.  

I’ve made a few more bags and in addition to skiving I’ve also cut v notches in seam allowance as recommended.  Then trimmed the seam allowance down from 1/2” to about 3/8” after sewing.  Then added a binding tape.

It made a huge difference and I’m quite happy with the result.  

Thanks for all the tips!

Will