Oil or not?

[SouthernCross]

I've seen several tutorials in which folks oil their holsters before final finish.  Others don't oil and go straight to final finish.  Is there any particular reasons to do this or not?

[Lobo]

There will always be strong opinions about oiling holsters and other leather products. I will put in my $0.02 worth here.

Vegetable tanning of hides removes just about all of the natural moisture in the leather. The wet-forming and molding process further reduces moisture content while also stressing the leather fibers considerably in the forming work. All leather holsters will need to flex to some degree in use, and areas of significant stress may respond to that flexing by cracking (either on the surface or within the fibrous structure).

A modest application of neatsfoot oil after wet-forming and drying can replenish the natural moisture within the leather fibers, thus allowing the leather to flex in use with less chance of cracking or crazing. Note that I have suggested:

1. a modest application. Too much oil can overly soften the leather, making it limp and useless for the intended purpose. A modest application means, to me, a light amount of the oil applied over the top grain side of the leather only (never on the flesh side because of the tendency to absorb far too quickly and place too much oil into the leather). Such a modest application will be fully absorbed into the leather quickly, typically within 30 minutes or so.

2. neatsfoot oil. Neatsfoot oil is produced by rendering the feet and lower legs of cattle, collecting the natural oils that protect against dehydration and freezing. It is essentially "cow oil". Neatsfoot oil compound consists of a preponderance of mineral oil mixed with some neatsfoot oil, and there is a difference in use and serviceability. Neatsfoot oil means just that, nothing else.

Other factors to keep in mind:

A. Neatsfoot oil does not "dry"; rather it is absorbed into the leather fibers, spreading itself evenly and achieving its level within the leather, and it remains there pretty much as long as the finished product remains intact. Adding oil later results in a rise in the level of oil within the leather, and such additions over time will certainly result in over-softening of the holster and defeat all of the maker's efforts.

B. Oiling should be done after any dyes have been applied and fully cured. Oiling will inhibit dye absorption, frustrating any efforts to achieve a desired result. Also, oiling will affect the finished coloration of dyed leather, usually with results several shades darker than might be produced without oiling. It is essential that you practice on scraps to learn the effects of those combinations of dyes and oil that you intend to use for your products.

Now I will turn this discussion over to others, probably including those who will argue against any use of neatsfoot oil in holster making. After reading all responses you will have to decide how you wish to proceed in the future.

Best regards.

Edited October 30, 2017 by Lobo

[SouthernCross]

Thanks, Lobo.

[Josh Ashman]

I believe Ray gave the perfect answer. I oil carry holsters similar to what he described above. I oil carry belts just a little more. "Western" gun belts get a little more still and saddles and tack items get quite a bit more. With all leather items there is a level that is too much. You don't want to saturate the leather and you don't want to soften it beyond what is acceptable for its intended use. A stiff holster with little flex is good, a soft and supple set of bridle reins is good, either one oiled to the level of the other isn't that good. 

As for application, I keep scraps of sheepskin for applying dye and oil. I keep my oil in a re-purposed 20 oz soda bottle with a hole poked through the lid. Squirt a little oil over a piece of sheepskin and rub it over the grain side of the leather and yo're all set. 

All the best, 

Josh

[chiefjason]

I use a oil/bees wax mix that I apply with some heat.  3 light rubs of this mix and heated to absorb on each side.  Seems to work really well.  Belts and straps I outright oil, and might do the oil/wax too.  I like how it darkens and deepens the color too.  The only time I don't oil is if someone wants a really light tan.  The oil just ruins that.  

[Boriqua]

I have a question about oil and gun finish. Seems silly but I will ask anyway. I am doing a holster with a lined interior. Basically its just two layers of 4/5 oz sewn back to back. I left the interior without dye but it looks a little stark. I was thinking of applying a very small amount of neatsfoot on the interior but .. of all the holsters I have made I never put oil on the inside and am wondering if it can hurt the guns finish. I know guns are usually full of gun oil anyway but I dont know if there is some property of neatsfoot that is different. I have 100% neatsfoot oil not the blend.

 

To the OP .. I have put a very small amount of neatsfoot on projects. I usually use a rag made from a peice of tee shirt rather than say a towel because it holds less oil. I rub it in well but .. unlike lobo I put it on before I dye. I then let it sit for no less than 24 hours before dying. I have had some colors give me fits with rubbing when I applied after oil after dye and I like my buffing rag to come clean before I apply final sealer/finish.

Having said that I pick my spots with using oil and dont use it on all gear. I have guys with my holsters for 10 yrs + that were never oiled. If I know its for a field gun I will oil it. For a daily carry CCW holster or general around town .. I dont.

[byggyns]

Boriqua,

I haven't had any issues with NFO on gun steel either blued or parked, carbon steel knives, or various stainless knives and stainless guns. All of my experience with it was with veg tan. I won't keep any steel stored in chrome tanned as I had a stainless blade damaged keeping it in chrome tan, but that sheath wasn't oiled with NFO.

[OLDNSLOW]

My application is similar but with a slight twist, I will dye the leather then oil right after then let all the parts dry for about a day.  I oil the parts that are going to be glued but never see sunshine again and will be under a lot of flex while worn.  When I apply the dye I use a damp sponge and use circular motion to apply it, for oil I use a dauber to apply it and have used all the other methods mentioned, you need to experiment to find what works best for you.  You will find that there are several here that dip when dying the leather but not sure how they oil will be looking forward to following this.