Contact Cement for Harness Leather

[Junto]

Hi Everyone,

First post here. I am using Wickett and Craig harness leather for the first time. I am planning on using Master cement to glue my wallet together, both flesh to flesh and grain to flesh.

I've heard applying two coats can make the bond stronger. Have y'all tried this? I have the refinished harness, so it is slick, oily and waxy...not great for gluing.

Thanks for any help, guys.

[Rolandranch]

I've been using Barges all-purpose cement so I don't know how Master cements acts. When I want a good stick I apply the glue to both pieces of leather and let it sit for a minute or two to let it get nice and tacky. After that, I put a clean piece of leather over the gluing pieces and pound on it a little with a hammer. When I glue a grain side, I rough it up a bit with a wire brush before I apply the glue.

Don't know if that helps or not. 

-Ryan

Edited January 10, 2018 by Rolandranch

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

If you were using Wickett's traditional harness, you might have a chance of getting it to stick, but anything with oil and wax is gong to give trouble.  At best, used in combination with clamps or tacks in the stitch line, it might hold well enough to get it sewed up, but I doubt it will create a long-lasting bond.  I use a lot of harness leather from both Wickett and Hermann Oak, and I rarely use glue.  If I do, it's in conjunction with shoe tacks which I pull out as I sew.

[johnv474]

If you have access to Master (or Barge) cement, you may be able to buy Master (or Barge) thinner.  Usually it is sold by the quart for about 2/3 the price of the cement.  It is useful for thinning cement that has become thicker from evaporation of the solvents in the container.

 

In the case of harness, sand/scuff both edges to be cemented together, and then wipe a time or two with thinner.  The thinner will help remove oils/waxes near the surface so the cement can soak in deeper.

 

Then, thin out a small amount of cement and brush on a thin coat of cement.  Let it dry entirely (longer than usual for cementing together).  Then, apply a second coat of regular, undiluted cement (or, if it's all you have, a second and third coat of thinned cement).  Let dry to the point of losing its initial gloss, about 5 minutes, and then put the two pieces together under pressure.  Tap or pound if possible.  Then leave them untouched for an hour for the cement to finish doing its magic.

 

The first coat soaks in deeper, carrying the cement further in, and dries to a type of primer coat.  Then the second coat can adhere to the primer even if it would have difficulty sticking directly to the oily, waxy harness leather.

[Carson]

I use barge cement and ruff up the leather before glueing with sand paper or a knife or scratch all  and one coat does me plenty but I am stitching it together.

 

hope it helps