DominickTuroski Report post Posted January 12, 2018 So i bought this old machine, ild cobblers hammer, overstitch wheel and 3 bevelers for 200$ (bevelers arent too great, but after sharpening they may be good to go. Thats a seperate thread) anyway it seemed pretty good. Machine came with a treadle base, not the original but it worked ok. It also came with a motor 1/4 the size the machine needed, but i wasnjust interested in it working mechanically. Anyway, since i've never restored a machine i gave it to a guy who oiled it up, messed with the tension, fixed up the motor to get it in working order and just checked it over. (80$) he also threw in 100 leather needles whoch was awesome. not really a full servicing but what can you do. I was looking to do a bit myself and i started running into the problem of thread snapping a lot. The thread i use is original that came from the drawers of the machine. At first i thought it was just too big, so i put in some tiny stuff from a singer 15-91. That snapped almost instantly. I messed with the tension quite a bit and it can sew pretty well, but i really want to get it to work with the treadle. The tension disks are not opening at all, or at least to the eye. I checked inside and the pin seems to not be in existence as well, so thats probably been worn down. It may just be a matter of replacing the tension unit. If so let me know if its something a newbie could do reasonably easily. I plan on downloading the manuals this weekend and taking a closer look. My ideal setup would be getting it to work with the treadle. Any ideas on improving that usage? Probably going to get a rubber belt since the leather one is slipping quite a bit. Right now im putting in 2 layers of 6-7 ounce veg and oil tanned leather and its handling it pretty well with just turning the wheel. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VboOT5FwWgQRcsynLtgT7SOKo1Gx0Qnc/view?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fknjVXb9fJx94O8kmUFCu--ylvoeBtUD/view?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nx50fNK8_cO7n2cLZcOsXr4pG3EVyMJP/view?usp=drivesdk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted January 12, 2018 You have a tailoring machine with very old thread. Replace the old thread with fresh #69 bonded nylon. Replace the needle with a new #18 (110) leather point needle. Wind a fresh Class 15 bobbin with #69 thread. Pull the bobbin case out of the shuttle, remove the old bobbin and install the new bobbin, feeding backwards to the slot, so the thread forms a tight angle as it goes under the tension spring. Adjust the bobbin case tension spring for just a modicum of tension when you pull on the thread. Rethread the top with the same #69 bonded nylon thread. Adjust the top tension to balance the knots inside about 6 ounces of leather. The check spring may require more tension on the spring with bonded nylon thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted January 12, 2018 The tiny pin inside the tension disc post pushes the tension discs apart when you raise the presser feet via the manual foot lift lever. If that pin is missing (likely) or worn down (less likely) then your thread tension won't release when you lift the feet. It's not a super big deal since it doesn't really affect the sewing itself, just when you try to pull out the material after lifting the feet. You can make a pin yourself from a suitable nail that you cut off at the right length and file the ends smooth. Simple trial and error will get you there. Once you file the pin too short (oops) and it no longer pushes the tension discs apart, you start over. I must have made a dozen of these little pins by now. I even managed to lose a few original pins myself, knowing full well here they are hiding and that they go AWOL in the blink of an eye. Please upload your pictures directly here to your LW posts (drag your resized image files on top of the editor area where it says "Drag your files here to attach".) Those Google drive links or other workarounds won't be around a few years from now when people browse the LW archives, and they're cumbersome to click on just to see the picture in a new window. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted January 12, 2018 I have attached a parts list for the 31-15. Look at the 2nd. drawing, part #43944, it's a horseshoe-shaped piece that actually operates the missing pin. Make sure that piece is there, as I had the same problem with my 31K20 and that piece was missing! I had to make a new one, which was a bit of a pain!! 31-15.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ndnchf Report post Posted January 12, 2018 I just tore down my 31-15 for a good cleaning and oiling last week. Here's a photo. Look close in the red circle, you can see the pin that opens the tension discs. You can make one from a nail if you find the right size. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DominickTuroski Report post Posted January 12, 2018 Appreciate all the help! I definitely need to get some new thread in it sounds like. Ill see what i can do with getting a pin in there. Ill let you know how it goes. Super excited to have this machine working in good order. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DominickTuroski Report post Posted January 27, 2018 Ok so i took another look. The pin is for sure missing, so i think i may just get a new tension unit as theyre fairly cheap. But i dont think whatever is supposed to opperate part 43944 is working. The piece is there but it doesent seem to move to release the disks. Heres a video of the cycles. Let me know what you think https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XwIBnAma1VLcS-491sgDZHp_p60VHita/view?usp=drivesdk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted January 27, 2018 That part should only move when you operate the foot lift lever, if it does that then all you need is a suitable pin. I doubt you will get a pin when you buy a tension unit as it's a separate part. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DominickTuroski Report post Posted February 2, 2018 Well I got some size 69 bondend nylon thread, and size 110 Schmetz leather needles. I was previously using Organ/Consew needles size 135x1 They don't say leather but they seem to do the job. Once i threaded it up and put in the new 110 needle, it made holes, fed, frayed the thread, sewed a few stitches with 1 strand then broke. I tried a few more times same thing. I then put back the old organ needle in and it sewed just fine. I would prefer to use the Schmetz needle as they seem to be higher quality/better design but so far not working out. I may have to mess with some tension stuff. Any recommendations? Oh also, the Schmetz needle is ground flat on one side while the current needles are round all around on top @Wizcrafts The needle seems to work for you? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 2, 2018 29 minutes ago, DominickTuroski said: Well I got some size 69 bondend nylon thread, and size 110 Schmetz leather needles. I was previously using Organ/Consew needles size 135x1 They don't say leather but they seem to do the job. Once i threaded it up and put in the new 110 needle, it made holes, fed, frayed the thread, sewed a few stitches with 1 strand then broke. I tried a few more times same thing. I then put back the old organ needle in and it sewed just fine. I would prefer to use the Schmetz needle as they seem to be higher quality/better design but so far not working out. I may have to mess with some tension stuff. Any recommendations? Oh also, the Schmetz needle is ground flat on one side while the current needles are round all around on top @Wizcrafts The needle seems to work for you? The correct needle system for a Singer 31-15 is DBx1, also known as 1738, or 16x257 (and a few other designations). They are definitely round on the top shank and do NOT have a flatted side! Only domestic sewing machine needles use that flat side system, mostly is HAx1, the most common type in home sewing machines. Do NOT use HAx1 flatted shank needles in an industrial sewing machine unless it specifically is built to use them (I can't imagine why it would). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites