Members jimi Posted January 25, 2018 Members Report Posted January 25, 2018 not easy to see but you can make out that the disk is closer-- Quote
Members jimi Posted January 25, 2018 Members Report Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, jimi said: the one with the two teeth on the right worked great considering it looks really rough once lined up with the stitch length and you don´t hit any tight curves, you don´t really see any marks at all underneath forgot to put up the picture Edited January 25, 2018 by jimi Quote
Evo160K Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) Hi Jimi, Jimi, your needle plate looks really good. Did you make the two-teeth feed dog as well? Nice work. Thanks so much for all of your time and effort in copying and sending that Numerical Parts List. That's extremely helpful, saves so much time. I owe you. About the knife blade you mentioned, did you notice in the parts list it was offered in three sizes: 95111 small, 95112 medium and 95113 large? Do you think that's to accommodate various thicknesses of thread? "anyway your tension stud looks like it was changed because the one in the parts list # SS439 has a short length of body from the thread to the disk. the one you have has a longer length of body, that is why that disk is so far away from the thread path." For some reason the image of the SS439 you mentioned above is not shown on Plate 1337 in my parts list or anywhere else for that matter. I believe the images in your parts list are an older version than mine. Something else I noticed in the parts list is the 45K69 uses 82551 Thread Controlling Lever and 95132 Thread Controlling Lever Spring. (See attached pictures.) The K68 and K71 don't use these parts. The 82551 lever is used on the 45K21,K25, but the spring is different., On the K69 they're used on tension screw stud SS391. So are these the parts that form the loop on the K69? Since the 45K68 and 45K71 don't use these two parts, how is the loop formed on those two subclasses? I'm so puzzled as to how the loop is formed on the K69. Jimi, would you be able to take some close-up pictures of the faceplate on your machine? Also if you get time would you please make photocopies of the parts images from your parts list (you sent the numerical list) and mail them? I'll pay for everything. What do you think about Wizcrafts comment above about the paddle spring on a 29k needle bar? How the hell does that loop form on the K69? Thanks again for sending the numerical list and for the hand-holding. Edited January 26, 2018 by Evo160K Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted January 26, 2018 Moderator Report Posted January 26, 2018 6 minutes ago, Evo160K said: Hi Jimi, Jimi, your needle plate looks really good. Did you make the two-teeth feed dog as well? Nice work. Thanks so much for all of your time and effort in copying and sending that Numerical Parts List. That's extremely helpful, saves so much time. I owe you. About the knife blade you mentioned, did you notice in the parts list it was offered in three sizes: 95111 small, 95112 medium and 95113 large? Do you think that's to accommodate various thicknesses of thread? "anyway your tension stud looks like it was changed because the one in the parts list # SS439 has a short length of body from the thread to the disk. the one you have has a longer length of body, that is why that disk is so far away from the thread path." For some reason the image of the SS439 you mentioned above is not shown on Plate 1337 in my parts list or anywhere else for that matter. I believe the images in your parts list are an older version than mine. Something else I noticed in the parts list is the 45K69 uses 82551 Thread Controlling Lever and 95132 Thread Controlling Lever Spring. (See attached pictures.) The K68 and K71 don't use these parts. The 82551 lever is used on the 45K21,K25, but the spring is different., On the K69 they're used on tension screw stud SS391. So are these the parts that form the loop on the K69? Since the 45K68 and 45K71 don't use these two parts, how is the loop formed on those two subclasses? I'm so puzzled as to how the loop is formed on the K69. Jimi, would you be able to take some close-up pictures of the faceplate on your machine? Also if you get time would you please make photocopies of the parts images from your parts list (you sent the numerical list) and mail them? I'll pay for everything. What do you think about Wizcrafts comment above about the paddle spring on a 29k needle bar? How the hell does that loop form on the K69? Thanks again for sending the numerical list and for the hand-holding. My comparison was meant to point out that a flat (or paddle shaped) spring can hold the thread in its most slack position (at the bottom of the downstroke) long enough for the loop to form as the needle begins to ascend from BDC. In the absence of any check spring, the slightest upward tug on the thread will dissolve the loop or cause it to not form at all. A patch machine depends on a paddle shaped check spring to hold the thread in place as the needle jogs down, up, then down again. When that spring wears out, the loop becomes too small to get picked off reliably. A broken spring usually translates into she won't sew at all. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members Constabulary Posted January 26, 2018 Members Report Posted January 26, 2018 wiz - do you mean the spring on the needle bar on the 29K? Or I got it wrong I think its purpose of the needle bar spring to avoid thread rebound. I had this on a Adler 30-1 the thread always jumped out of the path (at the stud near the top tension discs) until I figured the needle bar spring was worn (grove in the center of the pedaled end). The thread regulator spring is holding the thread taut approx. until the needle penetrates the material (f.i. for preventing needle piercing the thread). The thread loop is formed when the needle rises from BDC and the friction between material, needle and thread is forming the loop. I guess the problem is your thread and / or the needle. The machine is meant for sewing with a heavily waxed thread and I would guess the thread is probably to "slippy" for this machine. Waxed thread is causing more friction especially while forming the loop. If you know what I mean. But thats just a guess... I know usually 346 thread requires a 26 needle but I would try a needle one or even 2 sizes smaller (depends on your thread). I also have some certain thread I got from a former tent maker and I wanted to use it with my DVSG / BUSMC #6 but it did not work at all. Changed the thread and voila - perfect loop forming and it works like a dream. Sometimes it is just odd and you don´t know / can´t figure why. Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted January 26, 2018 Moderator Report Posted January 26, 2018 Constabulary; Yes, the paddle shaped spring I referred to is on the needle bar of a Singer or Adler patcher. When they wear, the thread loop suffers no matter how you set the upper take-up parts. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.