Padfolio #3

[Sheilajeanne]

Nope. The other project this happened to was from a kit, so not the same hide, just the same casing method! 

I've had some iffy leather in their kits, believe me, but this piece wasn't one of them. The flesh side was nice and smooth, and so was the grain side. Also, when I buy a shoulder or side from them, it had better be good quality, or they are not going to get my money!

I've been thinking of trying other sources for leather, but importing from the States is costly, and any other leather shops here in Canada are a couple of hours drive away. Tandy is just half an hour, and I like to actually see what I'm buying in person. 

Edited August 28, 2018 by Sheilajeanne

[Rossr]

1 minute ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Nope. The other project this happened to was from a kit, so not the same hide, just the same casing method! 

I've had some iffy leather in their kits, believe me, but this piece wasn't one of them. The flesh side was nice and smooth, and so was the grain side. Also, when I buy a shoulder or side from them, it had better be good quality, or they are not going to get my money!

I am always amazed at the differences in leather even if from the same source.  Try the spray bottle method...cant hurt to try it and maybe that is a winning solution for ya.   Just keep practicing.....seems to be the best thing.  Experience is a great teacher

[Sheilajeanne]

P.S. - Rossr, I have this nasty habit of editing my posts...  More info above now!

[Rossr]

Just now, Sheilajeanne said:

P.S. - Rossr, I have this nasty habit of editing my posts...  More info above now!

Lol ....Yea I am very lucky I am in the states and IN Pennsylvania where wickett and craig is located.  So its not hard for me to have choices.   When I could see the leather at tandy I was able to get some nice stuff.   Since then they closed up and the nearest one to me is like 1.5 to 2 hours away so i just order now.  Much like you I wont buy from tandy less I can see it.  Wickett and craig however i have had good luck buying sight unseen.  

[YinTx]

On 8/27/2018 at 4:56 PM, Sheilajeanne said:

I have a question for those of you who do notebooks and padfolios. When you are carving and/or stamping the front cover of the project, do you have to wet the WHOLE THING (including the back cover) to prevent water stains? Or can you get away with just wetting the front?

This sort of project is on my to-do list, so enquiring minds want to know! I'd like to do both a notebook sized and a full sized (8 1/2 x 11) padfolio.

Sheilajeanne,

The note books, 3 ring binders, padfolios etc. that I've done, I case the entire piece before I start.  I use a casing solution of my own mixture, based on a variety of casing solution recipes on this board.  If I remember correctly, it has liquid glycerin saddle soap, neatsfoot oil, brown listerine, some lexol leather conditioner and a lot of purified R.O. water.  As I am working, if I feel it is beginning to get to dry, I'll mist the entire thing with a water mist bottle, wait a few moments, and carry on.  I have seen one individual case his leather with 50/50 saddle soap and water, seemed kinda extreme to me.  But, I never get hardened leather.  And I don't soak it until the bubbles stop as many do.  Just enough to get the leather the correct moisture content throughout, and that usually means waiting a bit for it to even out.  When I am done tooling and it is dry, I'll add any dye, and after that a very light coat of neatsfoot oil if I feel it needs it.  Then on to the finishing touches such as leather balm, tan kote, antique, resolene or whatever suits your fancy.

I can't imagine leather so hard it'll crack after tooling.  Usually it takes hot hot water to get this reaction.

YinTx

On 8/27/2018 at 4:56 PM, Sheilajeanne said:

I have a question for those of you who do notebooks and padfolios. When you are carving and/or stamping the front cover of the project, do you have to wet the WHOLE THING (including the back cover) to prevent water stains? Or can you get away with just wetting the front?

This sort of project is on my to-do list, so enquiring minds want to know! I'd like to do both a notebook sized and a full sized (8 1/2 x 11) padfolio.

Sheilajeanne,

The note books, 3 ring binders, padfolios etc. that I've done, I case the entire piece before I start.  I use a casing solution of my own mixture, based on a variety of casing solution recipes on this board.  If I remember correctly, it has liquid glycerin saddle soap, neatsfoot oil, brown listerine, some lexol leather conditioner and a lot of purified R.O. water.  As I am working, if I feel it is beginning to get to dry, I'll mist the entire thing with a water mist bottle, wait a few moments, and carry on.  I have seen one individual case his leather with 50/50 saddle soap and water, seemed kinda extreme to me.  But, I never get hardened leather.  And I don't soak it until the bubbles stop as many do.  Just enough to get the leather the correct moisture content throughout, and that usually means waiting a bit for it to even out.  When I am done tooling and it is dry, I'll add any dye, and after that a very light coat of neatsfoot oil if I feel it needs it.  Then on to the finishing touches such as leather balm, tan kote, antique, resolene or whatever suits your fancy.

I can't imagine leather so hard it'll crack after tooling.  Usually it takes hot hot water to get this reaction.

YinTx

[YinTx]

I see there was a glitch in the matrix...

YinTx