Work Areas

[barra]

G'day all. I was just wondering if we could share tips on how we have all layed out our workshops/benches. I know some of us are restricted with space, so I am curious about how people have overcome the space problem with imaginative use of what they have available.

Barra

[bruce johnson]

Barra,

Good question. I use a lot of pegboard, that way I am able to change the configuration of the hanging tools as my whims and floor plan have changed. My current shop is a long one-car garage. My benches are mostly the modular "Gorilla Rack" benches and shelving. They are able to be used as racking type shelves or as benches. The underneath is set up with storage bins for scraps or big patterns. The ones I set up for shelves hold leather, trees, and supplies like rope cans, stirrups, the like. I have one drawdown in the shop now, and the works in progress or repairs are stored on a 3 tier pipe saddle rack. My cutting table is actually a used big metal desk. I raised it up 8" with pipe extensions on the legs to make it a comfortable height for cutting (just big enough pipe to slip over the legs). I cover it with particle board for cutting with the roller knife. I have a plastic board for the regular knives. The drawers hold the power tools like the drills, Dremel, heat gun, etc. I have a pegboard next to the cutting table for cutting tools only. All the knives, scissors, draw gauges live there. I know when I am working there to be careful.

Small parts and hardware are kept in parts drawers. I have probably 6 or 7. I hang them on the pegboard to save bench top space. Bench top tools I use are a belt sander, two drill presses on the powered side. On a bench that sticks out, I have a Chase pattern splitter, hand crank splitter, handcrank skiver, and rein rounder. They are all set at different angles or arranged so I can use any of them and not be interfered with by another tool.

I keep my in-stock silver in parts drawers. I have a small fire-resistant safe in the shop I keep for closeup records and customer silver. The best investment I made in creature comfort this year was the interlocking foam anti-fatigue floor mats.

I am lucky I have a covered porch out the back door of the shop. I have tables set up out there. One is for oiling and dyeing, the other is for glueing. The bench grinders with the buffing wheels are out there to prevent rouge splatter on leather. The shop press I use for a clicker is out there also.

The only thing I would add is a good sized laundry sink. The closest sink is the kitchen....

Bruce Johnson

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[barra]

The Pics show the homemade draw down, the stitching horse and part of the bench set up as it appeared as it was at my last house.

My main problem is I move frequently due to the bill paying job so nothing can be overly permanent. Everything must be able to be dismantled easily. At this point in time I have the use of one half of a double garage. I use the term double garage loosely (don't park 2 cars in and expect to be able to open the car doors to get out). I too use those dismantable metal, knock together with a hammer type benches/shelving. On top of these I have a pine bench top that just sits on top. The boards are joined with wooden slats. In my last place I had 2 of the metal shelves coming out long ways from the wall about a metre apart. The slats holding the pine boards together are exatly the width of the metal shelving apart so that the hole thing sits on top and sort of locks into place. I then had another 2 metal shelves along another wall as storage shelves.

Where I am now I could not for love nor money set up the workshop like I used to have it. No amount of re arranging would make things fit the way I had it. The space saving compromise was to use all 4 metal shelving units together as the bench space and I then placed the pine top on as previously. 2 things happened that in hindsight are actually benefits. I could no longer use the pine top slats to lock onto the original 2 shelf units. This mean't that the slats sit directly on top of the benches making the bench top about 2 inches higher than previously. This 2 inches higher is actually an improvement. I also now have gaps between the slats. This has proven a convenient place to slide in some trays for litle nic nacs and note books. Also the extra 2 " is actually a better height for me.

I have in the past taken the traditional saddlers route and stored my hand tools on a back board in the usual leather loops. While I needed the tools readily available and always at arms length, I have always needed a huge backboard meaning some tools always ended up on the top row and invariably just ot of arms reach. Also I have lived in the tropics and tools literally rusted over night. What I did then was to group all my tools into categories, edge tools,punches, awls etc. For each of these categories I made individual canvas tool rolls. When all the tool rolls were rolled up I found they actually took up surprisngly little space. The tools rolls were then stored on a shelf above the bench. I find that for each type of job I will know mainly in advance the tools I will need so i just get them out of their roll and have them on the bench til the job is done and then store it back into it's roll. I think we all have our favourite of each type of tool, you know the one that just sits right in the hand. I then worked out what tools I continually use for every job and made a seperate canvas tool roll for those. This has a few stitch marking wheels, single creaser (tickler), compass dividers, burnishing stick, favourite awl, adjustable screw creaser round knife and a few assorted sundries. This tool roll is open on the bench for every job and gets rolled up at night. It is also the travelling tool roll and allows me to do odd running repairs at the barn with the home made stitching pony made out of a plank with a large bulldog clamp attached (not pretty but it works). On the back of the bench I have a few storage bins for buckles etc and in between those I have a pine board that I have drilled holes into of varying sizes to store what I call the odds and sods tools (much like storing stamping tools in a wooden block. Underneath this is just enough space for my smasher, plough guage and a few nut bolt and screw containers. All of my hand sewing threads are stored in used plastic yoghurt containers with an eylet in the lid to feed the thread out of. I then have just enough space under the bench for a crate with stains, dyes, neatlac etc. Oh yeah I have a sheet of perspex that I put on top of the bench when staining and spills just wipe off so it is clean for next time. Also on top of the bench is my marble block and stamping tools as I like to stand when stamping. I still like to have a pine cutting board but also have a few of the plastic kitchen type ones. A small one of those goes into the travelling kit.

Under the bench I have stored things in crates much like Bruce has done. For my cutting out bench I have an old drafting table that has height adjustable legs. This table also has a very deep draw and this is where I store my sheepskins and roo skins. Under this bench is where I store my bridle sides and skirting type leathers. At the moment they are rolled up and stored on end in packing boxes (not overly fussed on that idea). Butted up next to the main bench (no choice due to space) is my harness stitcher and because I don't use the treadle function, crap gets stored underneath there like spools of thread. Against another wall I have an old singer 29K13 treadle base with a woodentop. This is where I have attached my hand operated eyelet/stud press and rounding machine. Next to that is the singer 132K6. I wish I had the space for a decent sewing table to make canvas work easier. I then have just enough space for the home made draw down horse (a carpenter I am not). This horse is quite tall compared to most I have seen but this suits me. I then have a metal tray underneath the drawdown as I find this a convenient place to place tools down when I want hands free. Immediatley next to that is the also home made stitching horse. Being trained by an old English saddler and harness maker. The stitching horse concept was until recently foreign to me. I have always sat at the bench with a set of clams. A few years ago I saw a picture of the stitching horse (what is that bizarre looking contraption I thought) So I then decided to make one and now use it about 50/50 with the clams. The horse has a fairly wide top with cut outs for my legs. This means I have a wide base for my fat arse as well as space in front of the stitching clamp to place a few tools. Onto the very front of the stitching horse I have clamped my splitter. It is here for 2 reasons. I find I don't use it much and also it annoys me being on the main bench top.

Most of my patterns I have laminated and if the pattern is more than A3 size I use as many as required and have reference makes, so that for example I might join say 3 laminated segments of the pattern by matching up the reference marks to make the finished size pattern. For small patterns I find pictures and blow up the image on a photocopier until i have the size I want and then laminate. I make the pattern about 1/8" smaller than I want the finished pattern as this allows for cutting out the laminated sheet and still ensures it is sealed up. The large laminated patterns I leave the sheet intact but then run the pattern under the sewing machine with no thread. When I want to use it I place it on the leather and with a scrap of sheepskin dusted in talc I run over the pattern. Enough of the talc enters all the little stitch holes and it is enough to see when the pattern is removed. I then run over the talc line with a single creaser and wipe off the excess talc. On some patterns this technique is not convenient and I make those patterns out of heavy vinyl or even old lino flooring.

I love tinkering with things and trying to turn it into a labour saving leather tool. I have an old movie projector film winder that I am going to turn into either a bobbin winder or a adjustable edge creasing machine if I have to die trying. A lot of tools I have found in the bargain bin at the hardware and lots can easily be adapted into leatherwork tools. I also like looking at tools of other trades and trying to figure out what leatherwork application I can turn it into.

Barra

[mulefool]

My shop was built from plans for a 24 X 36 barn. It seemed big til I put all my stuff in it. One corner has a little showroom area and behind that a small office area. I have two 4X 8 cutting tables with polyethylene butcher block cutting sssurface. I love that stuff, but after awhile it gets pretty chewed up. I heard once you can kind of re surface it by melting the surface with a blow torch, that sounds like a potential disaster to me. Unfortunately I find that one tof the tables becomes storage space for on going projects. My biggest problems are storage of projects and work that is done and needing picked up, and storage of leather scrap. I have 2 sewing machines, a Landis 3 and a Chandler. I also picked up a clicker last year and that takes up a bit of space. Once you set one of those things down, you kind of hate to try and move it again. I've done a few major re arrangement of the space over the last 10 years. A big mistake in building it was not putting in a sink. what was I thinking? But I didn't want to deal with getting a plumbing permit. Next time..........

[Go2Tex]

Great topic. But, I am reminded of the old adage, one picture is worth a thousand words. By all means, please post more pics of your shops.

One reason this topic is of particular interest to me is that I am in the process of moving and will be setting up shop in a new place. I haven't bought my new place yet so I don't know if I'll be converting someone else's auto shop or barn or whatever into a saddlemaking shop or building my shop from the ground up.

I'm tempted to try to find a turn-key shop so I can be up and running in short order but the idea of building my dream shop has a certain appeal as well.

I've been building my saddles in a converted portion of my home's 2 car garage. I walled off about 3/4 of one side, insulated it and put up some sheetrock and framed in a door. I put down 3/4" tongue and groove board to soften the concrete floor and used rubber mats to stand on. I used up every inch of space on every wall for tools and every nook and cranny under, beside, behind and over every bench and shelf. My little shop was blessed with good lighting from 2 large windows, an unusual feature for most garages. A small space heater kept me working even on the coldest days and the insulation kept the room an even moderate temperature without the heater.

With 3 benches, one stitcher, a stitching horse and a drawdown, there weren't much room for visitors! So, naturally, I can't wait to expand into that big new shop in the near future.

The perfect one-man shop, as I figure it, would be about 26x26 and would facilitate a smooth work process flow from the shipping/receiving area, with a large overhead door, to the storage area, cutting area, centralized assembly area, with efficient access to the different tool locations, stitchers, splitters, etc, parts, patterns and other operations such as oil/dye station, then to the pre-ship holding location and then back to the shipping/receiving area. An office area and bathroom, lots of windows for good lighing and ventilation, and a good airconditioning system would complete the design.

I'm estimating about $20K. And I dreaming or what?

[K-Man]

Here's some pics of my shop:

I have 1000 sq feet of total space. We built a small office (approx 125 sq feet), and left the rest open to set up the work areas. The first pic is our sign, which is adjacent to the 10 ft roll up door. The display cabinet area acts as our initial greet of the customers. The second pic shows one of our work benches. At the far end of that, we have a small sink and hot water heater. To the right of that area is where we have all of our shipping supplies. The wall shows some of the dies we use, and I have a 7-ton clicker at this shop. (I have a 15-ton clicker also at the old shop.) The leather we use is located on a 4x8 table "behind" (center of the room) the user at the clicker. The next pic shows our three sewing machines (all Artisans - two 3000's, one 618) and some of the dummy guns we use. It also shows one of the 4x8 tables we have. (There are two 4x8 that sit side by side.) The next pic shows the main workbench area. I've used unfinished kitchen cabinets that I got from Lowe's for the construction of it. (I usually got slightly damaged versions in order to save a few dollars. For example, I got the cabinet top for 75% off because of some slight damage.) I've used peg board to hang some of the tools I use on a regular basis. The next pic shows the workbench which sits directly to the left. Again, I used the unfinished kitchen cabinets here for the base. In the background is the area where I do all of the dyeing. We also hung some plastic behind the peg board which goes all the way to the floor and surrounds the table to catch any splashing of the dye. The last pic shows the 2' x 8' sign that sits on the end of the building that we are in. It faces a heavily travelled roadway, and lights up at night. It's brought in a significant amount of visitors to the shop.

Of course, the most important piece of equipment sits in the corner - the Coke machine. It's about 30 years old and hums right along, keeping everything nice and cold. I'm a somewhat avid coke collector, as you can see by some of the decorations on the walls. On the wall, just to the right of the main workbench, is a 6' x 6' sign.

The way the shop is set up currently has proven to be very functional in a lot of different aspects. We can easily greet visitors; we have various workstations; the work flow seems to function and follow basic lines. We have a very active business and offer a lot of different items to the customer. We do primarily holsters and accessories for concealed carry, and offer true custom work.

[BruceGibson]

Awesome, Kevin! So...how do you feel about aspiring holstermakers showing up at the door?

[barra]

Now we are cooking with gas with good pictures. Great layout K-man. You have given me many ideas. What a fantastic idea using seconds kitchen cabinets. Your layout looks to be roomy as well as functional. I have a question about the hydraulic press behind the drill press. Is it what you are using as your clicker and if so does it work like a car jack but in reverse. I will try and post some updated pics this weekend of my set up. The biggest problem I have where I am now is natural lighting. Were I was before xmas had a huge window in front of the bench. The only way now to let in natural light is to open up the garage roller doors. It is winter here and that is crazy talk. I do have my stitcher on rollers with brakes so if the weather is fine I can roll it out onto the patio area along with the stitching horse.

I too don't have a sink so i am resolved to using plastic tubs. The nearest sink is in the bathroom which is just inside the door as I enter the house from the garage. This is a trap. It is too close so the temptation is there to use it but to do so would mean death.

I forgot to mention my most cherished workshop implement, the coffee pot The beer fridge used to fit too but alas that is out on the patio.

Keep he pics of workshops coming guys and girls. They don't have to be from saddle makers.

Barra

[K-Man]

Now we are cooking with gas with good pictures. Great layout K-man. You have given me many ideas. What a fantastic idea using seconds kitchen cabinets. Your layout looks to be roomy as well as functional. I have a question about the hydraulic press behind the drill press. Is it what you are using as your clicker and if so does it work like a car jack but in reverse.

I use a Tippmann 7-ton clicker at this shop. You can see it somewhat in the fourth picture above (under the Coca-Cola bottle cap/next to the large air compressor).

I use the hydraulic press you're asking about to mold/press the holster around the gun. It's the one offered by Weaver leather. You can use it as a clicker, but I think it would be kind of tuff to utilize it that way if you're cutting leather of any substantial thickness.

[Don101]

nice shop and set up just amazing and so tidy my work shop always looks so untidy ill get in there and take some pics

[Don101]

this is the view from the outside door as you can see i have a sink in the middle to the left i have my oiling section, to the right i have my dyeing section, and a long the right hand side a long work area with power tools you will see a beter pic from another angle

in this picture you can see my stitching horse and to the left my main work area table with stamps cutters and other leatherworking tools, buckles are also hanging on the wall, i also have three movable lamps so i dont have any shadows on my work when i am stamping, i also have central heating and a small gas heater if im only in the workshop for a small period in winter

from this view you can see the main table and another entry point from the garage which also leads in to the house, and again more tools on the walls and storage, in the draws i have buckles and rivets and thread glue and alsorts of small items

this view is standing in the door next to the table, as you can see i use this work area for the dirty jobs like sanding and burnishing i also have a on the right where i store my rivits in the blue box and in the middle i store my large hammers for the havy duty work, underneath is also alot of storage

Edited June 15, 2007 by Don101

[Go2Tex]

leathershop.pdf

....... I have two 4X 8 cutting tables with polyethylene butcher block cutting sssurface. I love that stuff, but after awhile it gets pretty chewed up. I heard once you can kind of re surface it by melting the surface with a blow torch, that sounds like a potential disaster to me. .........

Yeah, like all cutting surfaces, eventually you either have to replace it or refinish it. I guess that's why plain old wood is so popular. I tried sanding the poly board to knock down the ridges but the best solution is to just flip it over and use the other side until it's all chewed up, then, move that piece to a less critical station and replace your cutting surface with new. It's really not that expensive and, after all, it's tax deductible.

I've attached, (hopefully), a PDF file of my dream shop floorplan. Let me know what ya'll think of it.

leathershop.pdf

[steve mason]

Howdy Barra,

I also have a small shop, 12'X19'. My shop is packed pretty tight with a 7' X 30" workbench, 4'X8' cutting bench, 6' X 24" drill press/vice/storage bench, stamping bench, piss tank, anvil, two sewing machines, a couple storage shelves, spare saddle stand and a beer fridge. So I must use space very wisely, I have all my patterns hanging on the wall, all my skirting, latigo, harness stores under my cutting bench, my chap, mule hide and gigantic Australian field mouse (kangaroo) goes in my storage shelves, my hardware is kept in small shelving units under my workbench, which has two shelves under it, my oil/glue/dyes etc go under my 6'X24'bench.

A few tips I could give for shop layout are:

- make your workspace small so you don't have to waste steps picking up tools etc

-make sure all the tools you use regularly are very handy to grab so you don't have to waste time looking for them, it will become muscle memory to grab a tool of the bench

-once you are done with a tool put it back where it lives

-have your saddle stand in the centre of your work area, so everything is just a step on either side of your saddle

-keep your patterns handy to get at, again don't have the patterns in another room or stored in a hard to get at area or time is wasted looking for them

-use your spare shop space to your advantage, in my shop you can barely see the walls since I have something or other hanging on them, under every bench I have a shelf or two, I even have a shelf hanging form the roof.

-you can hang a couple saddle stands high on the wall to store spare tree, a repair saddle etc

-make sure everything in the shop has a home and is always put back when you are done with it

-keep the shop very organized, if you know exactly where every tool, pattern lives you will not have to waste time looking for anything

- a few tips on your workbench,

-if you move ofter due to outside work, put the bench together with screws and mark/number the pieces so reassemble is easy

-make a very sturdy bench, that has no movement or bounce in it

-hang your tools on the back of the bench so they are is easy reach of you

-put shelves under your bench

-if it does not interfere with your lighting put a shelf above your bench

-put a stick on measuring tape on the front of the bench so you never have to look for one

-something that I see in a lot of other makers benches is that they are all made to low, in my opinion when you are at work on you bench you should not be bent over, you should be able to stand up straight while you do your work, I am 6' and my workbench is 43.5" high, it could be an inch higher if I was to build a new bench.

-your shop does not need to be spotless clean at all times, just well organized with everything in its place, if your shop is spotless clean at all time I envy you.

-another very important shop rule is, make sure the beer fridge is always loaded with a few cool ones.

when I get time I will post a few pics of my shop.

Steve

[Go2Tex]

Steve,

What are your thoughts on stamping/carving benches? You must have tried and seen a lot of different arrangements, what has worked out the best for you?

With all the granite countertops rage these days, I'm thinking it would be fairly easy to pick up some seconds from a local installer, builder, etc. Any thoughts on using granite for a carving surface?

Hey K-man, where do you get your dummy guns? I make a few custom holsters and my biggest problem is obtaining the right model to use for a mold if the customer isn't local.

[steve mason]

Steve,

What are your thoughts on stamping/carving benches? You must have tried and seen a lot of different arrangements, what has worked out the best for you?

With all the granite counter tops rage these days, I'm thinking it would be fairly easy to pick up some seconds from a local installer, builder, etc. Any thoughts on using granite for a carving surface?

Hey K-man, where do you get your dummy guns? I make a few custom holsters and my biggest problem is obtaining the right model to use for a mold if the customer isn't local.

howdy Go2tex;

I have used some different style of benches over the years, I now like a stamping bench that is separate from my main workbench, mainly so I can leave my stamping tools set up and ready to go, when I used a bench where the stamping and main workbench were one and the same, I would always have to roll up my stamping tools when I was done tooling. the combination stamping/main bench was nice because the rock had a polished surface to it so I could use it to skive leather on. The rock was level with the rest of the bench surface as it was countersunk. Now I have a large piece of 3/8 glass to skive on. A bench where the rock surface is countersunk to the rest of the bench surface is nice to work on, if I had one thing to change on my current stamping bench that would be it.

The rock I now use is an honest to goodness used gravestone, I am friends with the local funeral home owners, this rock was returned after the husband died, the wife did not like the rock so she traded it in for a new one. before I could take the rock home I had to grind his name off the rock( that side is turned down on my bench) I then has to smooth the bottom surface so I could stamp on it. It is too rough to skive on, but it is very flat and true to stamp on. The gravestone is 4" thick and 36"X16". I do very much prefer a thick rock and a very strong sturdy stamping bench. I use this bench not only for stamping but for all my riveting and all my drive punches., it sure is nice to rivet and not have my steel bouncing all over the place. The bench is made with 4"X4" corner posts and two layers of 3/4" plywood. there is no movement or bounce at all with this bench. I have heard of a few guys who put a thin piece of cork under their rock to lessen the bounce. but if you get a rock as heavy as mine she won't bounce at all. I am not sure if a counter top would be strong enough to work on, I would be worried about using big set stamps or your maker marker, I have a seen a number of guys rocks crack, even rocks up to 2" thick. personally I would think that 3" would be a minimum thickness for me, although I know that many stampers use rocks that are much thinner. Buying a new rock that thick will cost you some $$, but in the end you will need one anyways, I have already talked to the local funeral home about it, When my time comes I already own my gravestone, I figure as much time as I have spent over this rock, that it should spend the rest of time over me when I'm gone.

here are some pics of my shop.

my stamping bench, all my inventory( I am a mainly a custom order shop so I have very little inventory on hand), my pattern wall and saddle stands,

Edited June 17, 2007 by steve mason

[steve mason]

Here are a few more shop pics,

my 4'X8' cutting/leather storage/sewing machine bench, my main work bench(notice the sign in the top left corner "rush job policy, if you want it bad you will get it bad, the worse you want it the Worse you will get it") and a view of the whole shop.

I sure would like to see some photos of your shops, I think we all could learn something about shop layout from each other, and a picture says a thousand words.

[bruce johnson]

A view from around my shop. I have reconfigured it a couple times, but this layout seems to be working the best. The first picture is the cutting table. It is a large metal desk (had a "free" sign on it along a driveway). I put pipe over the legs to raise it up, and use particle board for the roooler knife, and plastic for the round or straight knives, To the right of that all the cutting tools hang on a pegboard rack.

Second pic is the bench top tools - the sannder for trueing up edges, one drill press has one of Norm Lynds's burnishing wheels. The other drill press has a punch chucked into it for holes in leather, or drill for removing rivets. The scrap bins live below. It is handy to have them right by the cutting table, and closer than the rolled sides. I am more inclined to look in the scrap bins first that way. The pliers and hammers live above this bench. An open area is there to put cased leather under the fan to speed dry it when needed.

Third pic is pretty basic - hand tools on the back, using chemicals above. There is not a buckstitched belt on the bench. It is a figment of your imagination, I don't buckstitch belts, unless I quote a ridiculous price and they say "yes" because nobody else will even do them.

Fourth pic shows the hardware. Saddle riggings and large buckles above. The parts drawers hold rivets, nails, screws, and buckles and rings under 1-1/2". The bench to the right ahs the handmachines. The two splitters, the handcrank skiver, and the rein rounder. The are set so none interfers with use of the others. The three tiered rack holds works in progress ort repairs. The shelving behind that holds trees and things like ropecans, and bins below hold stirrups. The sides are sorted and rolled up on the shelf next to that.

The opposite wall has the two sewing machines. I keep the different feet, guides, and throat plates in the drawers, the thread is sorted on the pegboard. Bobbons are sorted by thread size, color is obvious. The stamping bench is covered with a 4" headstone fragment. Like Steve, mine has a name (and a picture) on the bottom. Stamps are kept in plastic cups on the pegboard above. The parts drawers to the left have silver. The drawers directly by the stamping bench have tapoffs. There is a roll around drawer thing for miscellaneous stuff, and then the skiving machine to the right of that.

Bruce Johnson

Edited June 17, 2007 by bruce johnson

[Go2Tex]

Thanks for all the pics, guys.

Steve, I notice your drawdown has wheels on it. I considered doing that too but wondered about keeping it steady when carving a groundseat, etc, even with the locking type wheels or casters. Does your stand move around on you much?

[Go2Tex]

OK, here's a couple pics that I took previously that show a bit of my shop. I already tore my shop down pursuant to my move so I can't dazzle ya with a complete layout.

[K-Man]

Hey K-man, where do you get your dummy guns? I make a few custom holsters and my biggest problem is obtaining the right model to use for a mold if the customer isn't local.

For the occasional gun, I'd recommend Ring's Blue Guns. They manufacture the blue training guns. Their website is: www.blueguns.com. Another source for blue guns is this place: www.miragetechnologies.net.

If you need something aside from what you can find there, let me know and I can give you a couple of other places that might have what you're looking for.

[Don101]

there are some nice setups there guys thanks for sharing it has given me a few good ideas how i could improve my set up that i have, i like the idea with the boarding with holes in it and hooks

[mulefool]

Excellent tips on having an efficient shop Steve. Especially the beer fridge. I'm always more efficient with a couple cool ones. On my polyethylene table tops, yes I do flip them around until there's nothing left before getting a new one. The last 4X8 sheet I bought was around $125. For my carving I use a 3"X18"X24" granite machine shop surface plate. I beleive I paid $80.00 for it 10 years ago. Before that I used a tombstone, too, til I broke it in half. It is inset flush with the top of my carving bench. I have a drawer with holes I can just drop the tools into. I find I always end up standing while I carve so the top is just the right height for me to stand, although I do have a chair the right height if I want to sit down. I should probably take some pics in my shop to share, I can demonstrate some of the "don'ts" of a well organized shop for you all. I don't know if this should go under a seperate topic, but I'd sure like to find a better form of lighting. For my carving bench I've got a regular light on one side and a halogen light on the other, but still can't seem to avoid shadows. The overhead lighting is all flourescent, but I'd sure like to get one of those really good lights like they have in the doctors office on a stand with a gooseneck for working on saddles.

[barra]

Thanks guys. I have picked up on some great tips and have taken bits and pieces from each and every one of you. The pictures are a great source of inspiration. So much so that I have had a bit of a rearrange using your ideas. Now to take some pictures.

Barra

[K-Man]

Lighting is an issue with me as well. Originally there were only two 8' florescent lights up on the ceiling - ~15 feet up. We've slowly been adding additional florescent lighting and a little bit of track lighting. I'd welcome any suggestions in that respect.

[Don101]

you could always add a small simple pulley system and drop and raise the lighting to suit your needs,

i have three spot lights on the ceiling above my industrial tools a have a large fluorescent light above my table the second will go up when i get around to it and i will rig it up so i can drop and raise it above my table, i also have a small florescent light at the table end above my stamps and three movable spot lights that i can arrange where needed when carving or stamping,

and i wonder why my electric bill is so high ..LOL