Members dikman Posted July 9, 2018 Members Report Posted July 9, 2018 4 mm is thick enough by itself for the belt unless you want it stiffer, in which case a thinner lining would do that. As for the aesthetics, some like a smooth lined finish, some like the rough finish, it all depends what the buyer wants. Are you going to dye it, as that will stiffen it a bit? It's going to be a fair bit of work keeping the stitch lines nice and straight if you're doing a lot of loops. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
garypl Posted July 9, 2018 Report Posted July 9, 2018 I have never seen the need to put a strip under the loops to stop the shells. I make them a snug fit and they hold the shells securely even after several years of use. Might save you another step! Gary Quote Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
Members dikman Posted July 10, 2018 Members Report Posted July 10, 2018 For cowboy action shooting you want them a bit loose in the loops, otherwise they don't like being pulled out in a hurry. The bottom strip is useful in that case. My last one I made using 2-shell pockets, that way you don't need the strip - but they're a bit more work to make. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members noobleather Posted July 10, 2018 Members Report Posted July 10, 2018 23 hours ago, dikman said: Now that looks nice. I've never bothered with anything fancy on a cartridge holder simply because it's a purely utilitarian thing. I suppose, though, it could be good practice at stamping. Thanks Dikman I have a stamping addiction lol and it covers up a lot of my mistakes. I am currently using a belt with 2 shell pockets,very easy to use. I am guessing they are wet formed around some dowl? Never tried to make em as wet molding still seems out of my league. Quote
Members dikman Posted July 10, 2018 Members Report Posted July 10, 2018 Yep, dowel or a couple of dummy shotgun rounds (I have dummy rounds made up for all my calibres). I made a paper pattern first (lot of trial-and-error) then use that to cut the pocket leather. The pocket is then stitched to the belt or slide. I then dye it, which makes it fairly supple, insert the dowels/shells and form it over them. To form the "valley" between the shells I lay a piece of dowel on the leather between the shells and lightly clamp it in place. When it's all dried the pockets keep their shape. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members noobleather Posted July 10, 2018 Members Report Posted July 10, 2018 1 hour ago, dikman said: Yep, dowel or a couple of dummy shotgun rounds (I have dummy rounds made up for all my calibres). I made a paper pattern first (lot of trial-and-error) then use that to cut the pocket leather. The pocket is then stitched to the belt or slide. I then dye it, which makes it fairly supple, insert the dowels/shells and form it over them. To form the "valley" between the shells I lay a piece of dowel on the leather between the shells and lightly clamp it in place. When it's all dried the pockets keep their shape. Thank you very much for that information.Have to buy some dowel and give it a go.pattern for the pocket leather should be tricky. Oh well practice practice. Quote
Members Riem Posted July 10, 2018 Members Report Posted July 10, 2018 (edited) 9 hours ago, dikman said: 4 mm is thick enough by itself for the belt unless you want it stiffer, in which case a thinner lining would do that. As for the aesthetics, some like a smooth lined finish, some like the rough finish, it all depends what the buyer wants. Are you going to dye it, as that will stiffen it a bit? It's going to be a fair bit of work keeping the stitch lines nice and straight if you're doing a lot of loops. I'm still a bit undecided about the lining - maybe dye as you suggested. Even if I don't dye, I'll apply some sort of acrylic (since it's a gift, the recipient won't have too much say about the final look! ) which will also stiffen it a bit. I'm no stranger to hand stitching, it's all I know. Attached is a picture of a carry strap I've completed recently, from the same hide as I'll cut the belt. This one was vinegarooned and also hand stitched. Edited July 10, 2018 by Riem Removed duplicate picture Quote "People are more violently opposed to fur than to leather because it's safer to harass people in coats than to try being nasty to motorcycle gangs." ~Anonymous
Members Riem Posted July 10, 2018 Members Report Posted July 10, 2018 11 hours ago, garypl said: I have never seen the need to put a strip under the loops to stop the shells. I make them a snug fit and they hold the shells securely even after several years of use. Might save you another step! Gary Although I'm not particularly keen on adding the strip I'm concerned about the loops stretching over time. The calfskin I'll be using for the loops is rather soft and I think there's a possibility that the cartridges will fit loosely after some use. Perhaps the stop strip is more for my own sense of comfort than for actual mitigation of the risk of a cartridge dropping through... BTW, the stamping on the loops really makes it pop - lovely! I'm going to test a few of the stamps I have to see if there's any that I can use on this strap... Quote "People are more violently opposed to fur than to leather because it's safer to harass people in coats than to try being nasty to motorcycle gangs." ~Anonymous
garypl Posted July 10, 2018 Report Posted July 10, 2018 25 minutes ago, Riem said: Although I'm not particularly keen on adding the strip I'm concerned about the loops stretching over time. The calfskin I'll be using for the loops is rather soft and I think there's a possibility that the cartridges will fit loosely after some use. Perhaps the stop strip is more for my own sense of comfort than for actual mitigation of the risk of a cartridge dropping through... BTW, the stamping on the loops really makes it pop - lovely! I'm going to test a few of the stamps I have to see if there's any that I can use on this strap... Riem, if you are using calfskin for the loops then stretching may be a concern. I use 4-5 oz veg tan and they don’t stretch much if at all. I agree with Dikman that shells need to be slightly loose for cowboy shooting. Mine are all used just to hold extra shells while trap, skeet or sporting clays shooting and I am never in a hurry to reload! Gary Quote Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
Members dikman Posted July 10, 2018 Members Report Posted July 10, 2018 Gary, I reckon making them for trap, skeet etc would be much easier! It's finicky trying to get just the right amount of tension to stop them falling out and yet still make them easy to remove. The pocket method looks neater but is more work than just sewing a strip underneath. Riem, you could also use slightly elasticated webbing instead of leather, then you wouldn't need the strip underneath? Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
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