Antique gel causing discoloration

[ksaw]

Hi All,

I've been experiencing a frustrating issue with the last couple of projects I've tried to antique. I've been using the following process: tooling, oiling, 1st coat of 50:50 water/ resolene, 2nd coat 50:50 water/resolene, apply fiebings antique paste, work in and wipe of excess. The problem I'm having is the antique seems to be penetrating the resolene and causing uneven colouring. Should I add more resist prior to antiquing? Any other thoughts?

[YinTx]

If you have a photo, it will help us help you a lot.

How heavy/light are you applying the resolene?

YinTx

[ksaw]

Been applying a heavy layer of resolene, will try letting it soak in more.

[AlexFJ]

Try Super Shene instead. It seems, it has better blocking against antique gel compared to resolene.

P.S. Another good choice for antique paste is Tan-Kote. But Super Shene seems to be better.

 

Edited June 27, 2018 by AlexFJ

[immiketoo]

Your best option is to switch to Fiebing's paste antique.  I never combine a water based resist with a water based antique.  My go to combo is Bee Natural RTC and Paste antique.   It never penetrates the resist and you only have to wait 10-15 minutes.  None of this 24 hours BS.

[YinTx]

6 hours ago, immiketoo said:

Your best option is to switch to Fiebing's paste antique.  I never combine a water based resist with a water based antique.  My go to combo is Bee Natural RTC and Paste antique.   It never penetrates the resist and you only have to wait 10-15 minutes.  None of this 24 hours BS.

I am confused:  I thought the OP was using Fiebing's paste antique?  I never had any luck with the Resolene approach either.  Tried Bee RTC, it was better but still I wasn't happy.  In fact I have probably tried more than a dozen different combinations of resists, number of coats, reduced resists, different brands/types of antiques, highlighters, etc.  In fact yesterday for the first time I tried Fiebing's highlighter, over TanKote with so so results.  Sad thing is I've done so many different versions I don't remember which one looked the best!  I have however had some luck applying Tan Kote 50/50 water with two coats (wait like 4 hours between coats) and do the antique the next day.  I think this was Chief's technique.  Still, I manage to screw that up on occasion as well.

Tried the Fiebing's Pro Resist a few month's ago, it was like 100% resist, the antique all wiped off, like I hadn't even used any.  No penetration at all, but also no antique in the tooled impressions or cut marks.

YinTx

[immiketoo]

My mistake.  I could ha sworn I read gel antique.  That stuff penetrates most finishes unless you apply so many coats that it looks shiny and plasticky.  I've never had a problem with RTC and past antique.

[immiketoo]

Ah HA!  It's in the title.  Antique gel.  Not the same as gel antique I guess.  I knew I wasn't crazy!

[fredk]

a/ I never use resolene before using 'antique'

b/ its supposed to be uneven - its supposed to give the leather a 'used' look. For an even coverage use a dye

[YinTx]

52 minutes ago, immiketoo said:

My mistake.  I could ha sworn I read gel antique.  That stuff penetrates most finishes unless you apply so many coats that it looks shiny and plasticky.  I've never had a problem with RTC and past antique.

Astute, to be sure.  I missed that part.  I've had decent luck with 2 coats 50/50 TanKote then the gel antique from Tandy.  I only have one bottle of the Mahogany.  Also seemed to do ok with the Pro Resist, but I had to be very careful not to let the pro resist get where I wanted the antique to be, which is a challenge on basketweave.  This is what I did on the basket weave section of the rifle sling I made, if I recall correctly.  The rest was 50/50 TanKote, so you can see the difference in penetration.  No TanKote, and the leather turns almost black with that antique.

YinTx

[AlexFJ]

55 minutes ago, immiketoo said:

Ah HA!  It's in the title.  Antique gel.  Not the same as gel antique I guess.  I knew I wasn't crazy!

The keyword is "Fiebing's". Fiebing produce antique paste, while Eco-Flo produce antique gel :). 

[immiketoo]

Yes, but GEL is GEL!  Hence my confusion.  The Fibbing's didn't come in until later   

 

[ksaw]

Thanks all! I'm going to try Tan-Kote next time before using the antique paste

[YinTx]

2 hours ago, ksaw said:

Thanks all! I'm going to try Tan-Kote next time before using the antique paste

FYI, I've tried it with straight TanKote, no luck.  Got all smeary and streaky and knarly and such.  Your best bet is to tool a bunch of scrap pieces and try a dozen different ways until one of them or none of them work for you.  There are those who refuse to antique, and some days I am one of them.

YinTx

[terrymac]

TanKnote is no way, no how ever intended to be a resist. In fact, it can be added to antique paste if it starts drying, or to lighten up the antique color .  It also works great when you have splotchy areas from the antique, and it will remove most of the "splotch".  The only product that really works is Clearlac or Wyosheen sold by Barry King ( both the same product).  Must say I have not used Bee's new product so can't comment on it although their saddle oil is the best on the market.  You get into Tandy's antiques, and you can take everything I have said and throw it out the window.  Resolene does not work very well either.

Terry

Edited June 28, 2018 by terrymac
Mis spell

[immiketoo]

2 hours ago, terrymac said:

TanKnote is no way, no how ever intended to be a resist. In fact, it can be added to antique paste if it starts drying, or to lighten up the antique color .  It also works great when you have splotchy areas from the antique, and it will remove most of the "splotch".  The only product that really works is Clearlac or Wyosheen sold by Barry King ( both the same product).  Must say I have not used Bee's new product so can't comment on it although their saddle oil is the best on the market.  You get into Tandy's antiques, and you can take everything I have said and throw it out the window.  Resolene does not work very well either.

Terry

Terry, The surest way to resist are the products you listed.  I just don't like the look of them.  Ive been using Bee Natural for about 5 years now and I've NEVER had it bleed through.  I want to try some of their other products as well.

[AlexFJ]

Well...

Some practice issues. Fiebing's oil dye (dark brown and deluted saddle tan) + mink oil + Super Shene + antique paste + Super Shene again. You can see natural colour of the leather.

(Sorry, see no way how to add many pictures with comments right now)

 

 

[AlexFJ]

My practice piece (one of many). Just used 3 different resists and 3 different antiques (both paste and gel) from Japan. 

 

 

Edited June 28, 2018 by AlexFJ

[AlexFJ]

Corners - natural colour + Tan-Kote + antique gel.

Tan-Kote is colored by gel, but still not a "messy". 

So, try the different ways, and you will get the best one for you.