Is a serger what I need?

[JSLeathercraft]

Hey guys! 

I'm developing a new horse accessory that requires me to put a professional edge on Cordura alone, as well as a few layers of Cordura plus 100% wool on a fabric backing.  (Which btw, if anyone knows a good supplier for this I would appreciate it if you could pass me the info!). 

Although I have a Juki 441, a Cowboy 341, and a Singer 31-15, I've never done any sewing where you need a finished edge.  Let alone a finished edge through thicker material.  

I know it's not strictly leather, but I've always been able to trust the knowledge on this forum!  What do you suggest I need?  What is the difference between a serger and an overlock machine?  Are they the same?  And, if this is what I need, would I be able to get away with an older heavy home machine or should I look for an older industrial.   I'm not looking to invest much until I know how much of this I'm going to do.

Here's a pic of the wool fleece I'm working with and one of a similar item with the edges I'm looking for.

Thanks much!!!

[Wizcrafts]

I believe you are looking for a twin needle Coverstitch machine. These are often used to finish the edges of carpeting. It is a ramped up serger on steroids that can produce a very wide and deep stitch needed to cover the edge of carpeting using heavy cotton or polycore thread (e.g., button hole thread, linen thread, jeans thread, etc). Also, the pattern is different across the outer edge. Ask your industrial sewing machine dealer if they have one you can try out.

This job is too intense for a common serger. You need a carpet coverstitch machine.

[Mark842]

I actually just saw a local classified ad selling a Merrow 15C. Had never heard of it so I looked it up and found this video.  Whether or not it can sew the edge on Cordura without getting tangled in the fluff...? But the company is still in business so they may be able to tell you.

 

[Wizcrafts]

Merrow overlock machines are the real deal and can be very very expensive new or rebuilt. If you can get a used one privately, for a reasonable price, more power to you.

[Mark842]

14 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Merrow overlock machines are the real deal and can be very very expensive new or rebuilt. If you can get a used one privately, for a reasonable price, more power to you.

I was just looked it up out of curiosity. It's for sale for $2500. Found a boat load of them for sale online for about $1000. I personally have no need for one. I do collect machines and have added to my product line after getting a machine I didn't need. I could see myself making some nice biker patches with a machine like this but maybe at $4-500 for a used one...not $2500.

[Wizcrafts]

The Merrow I linked to is not for patches. It is for blanket edges and related materials, like furs.

[ljk]

I have a bunch of Merrow machines.  I keep 3 in use for a Merrowed edge for

custom patches.  Very sturdy machine but not very heavy.  I run mine with

std. domestic sewing motors.  Once set up they are very reliable.  Bought my

first one from online dealer it ran, but had to feed manually because he ground off

the feed dog, bad, bad. They use cams to change stitch length.  Of the two girls

in the shop one won't use it and one will but only if I'm not available.

 

They have a very good knife system.  I use those small storage type racks from Sams

for tables.  That said a industrial serger 3 thread will work also for your needs.

Juki and Siruba are very good.

 

If I set up a Merrow machine It will run properly, however you will probably send

it back several times to adjust or repair. Two issues breaking needles (failure to remove material properly)

and failing to thread properly.

I would sell one for $500.  It will be set up.  I would require materials to test,  includes

video prior to mailing. I welcome any comments.   tx Lynn

 

[Mark842]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

The Merrow I linked to is not for patches. It is for blanket edges and related materials, like furs.

Actually the one you linked is the exact model for sale in the classifieds that got me looking. I've messaged back and forth with the seller and it is the MG-3D. They said all they used it for was patches...here ya go if interested

https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/52691203

[kgg]

Hi JSLeathercraft,

I to struggled with your question of using a serger or try and figure out what would work best. I now use my Juki 1541s with a 1 1/2 inch binding attachment to edge the fleece. Edging the fleece you showed in the photo is going to be difficult with a normal industrial serger as they are going to struggle with the depth of pile, the needles becoming fowled and probably will not accommodate a thread capable of standing up to the riggers of use.

The depth of the fleece in the photo I am guessing is about a 1/2 inch pile with a standard material backing and a thread count of about 800. The single fold 1 1/2 binding attachment places a nice approximately 5/8" edge on both top and bottom of the fabric and will stop edge fraying. I use a good quality ripstop material for edging as it is tough, water resistant and lite. Some of my little projects require fleece, ripstop and 1/8 rubber backing. Any of your machines will do the job nicely if you can get a binding attachment for them. The small portable walking foot sewing machines will do the job but will struggle and I have use two different popular manufacturers machines.

I do have two notes of caution when using this fabric 1) cut your fabric so the factory punch holes that are about 1" in from the edge are not a part of your project that extra material is just scrap  2) take a piece about 4' x 4' and wash and dry it before you work with it to get an idea on how much shrinkage you are going to get. What you will find is that the fluffy pile will pill and the size of your material will shrink about 2" with one side being more then the other.

The material I use comes from Monterey Mills and should cost about I guessing $6.00 US a running yard. It is good stuff, allows water to wick through and keep the top dry, washes great and last for about 70 wash / dry cycles. We have used this in our whelping boxes for years and all the dogs (infant to senior) love it. 

My experience,

kgg

 

[Wizcrafts]

6 hours ago, Mark842 said:

Actually the one you linked is the exact model for sale in the classifieds that got me looking. I've messaged back and forth with the seller and it is the MG-3D. They said all they used it for was patches...here ya go if interested

https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/52691203

I spent some time at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines on Wednesday afternoon picking up a post machine. He has a Merrow edging machine for sale in the main machine room. I don't know the model number or price.  If you want you can call Bob Kovar Sr.and ask about it. The business number is: 866-362-7397

[JSLeathercraft]

Thanks all for the replies!  I'm going to have to process through this info.  

Whiz - you are lucky to live close to Bob's!  When I was there buying my 341 my husband was with me and he's the kind of guy who wants to walk in, buy, and head home.   However, my eyes were like a kid in a candy shop.  I would have loved to have spent the day looking over all the different machines in that room!  

kgg - I will consider the binding as an option and I very much appreciate your insight into working with this material.  

 

 

 

Edited July 6, 2018 by JSLeathercraft

[kgg]

Hi JSLeathercraft,

Thank you, I have found that people on this forum are very open and knowledgeable about everything from thread, leather techniques to machine repairs and everything in between. I hope my suggestions help you in some small way. For me a serger thread just could not standup to a litter of puppies for more then couple of hours before their little teeth would shred the serger thread and the item would have to be repaired. Ripstop edging has stopped that. I look forward to seeing what you decide on and how it works as I may be able to incorporate something into my projects.

kgg