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  • Contributing Member
Posted

Sorry I got to this after you ordered the drill... but you dont want the one you pictured above.... you want this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=44506

its 10 more, but it has a key chuck instead of the keyless chuck. The reason I cay you want it keyed is because there is a hell of a lot more power with these than you get with a hand drill.... if you tighten it up and try to untighten it with the motor running the keyless is apt to rip a finger off....

Also, they run sales on these all the time.... I would have suggested you talk to one of the sales people and tell them you want one at sale price, but they will dicker with you, then tell them that you will buy the 2 or 5 year extended warrenty....

Thats what I did, bought mine off sale at sale price but I spent an extra 15 or so for the 5 year warrenty.... I dont use mine much... but I bet you will be using your quite alot....

As for it needing to be bolted down... mine is weighted real well... I use it for drilling metal and wood from time to time and I usually pick it up off my work bench and take it out side to a portable benck I set up out there to keep me from having to clean up as much in my garage....

When you get it you will have to assemble it, and put the chuck into it... make sure you have a short piece of 2x4 wood to use to press the chuck into it.... keeps you from maring it and the press plate.

Hope this helps...

"The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE

Her: Hit Me

Him: Do you want me to use the knife?

Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!

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Posted
Sorry I got to this after you ordered the drill... but you dont want the one you pictured above.... you want this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=44506

its 10 more, but it has a key chuck instead of the keyless chuck. The reason I cay you want it keyed is because there is a hell of a lot more power with these than you get with a hand drill.... if you tighten it up and try to untighten it with the motor running the keyless is apt to rip a finger off....

Also, they run sales on these all the time.... I would have suggested you talk to one of the sales people and tell them you want one at sale price, but they will dicker with you, then tell them that you will buy the 2 or 5 year extended warrenty....

Thats what I did, bought mine off sale at sale price but I spent an extra 15 or so for the 5 year warrenty.... I dont use mine much... but I bet you will be using your quite alot....

As for it needing to be bolted down... mine is weighted real well... I use it for drilling metal and wood from time to time and I usually pick it up off my work bench and take it out side to a portable benck I set up out there to keep me from having to clean up as much in my garage....

When you get it you will have to assemble it, and put the chuck into it... make sure you have a short piece of 2x4 wood to use to press the chuck into it.... keeps you from maring it and the press plate.

Hope this helps...

I really appreciate your nudging me to get a press. I had been thinking about it but needed just a bit more motivation. I went with the least expensive one because I thought it would be the smallest. All I need it for is to drill holes in aluminum stays, to puch holes in leather, and to burnish. I do like that the one I ordered comes with a small lamp.

Are these presses a lot more quiet than a handheld drill?

Posted

i have the one wolvenstein listed. as far as i know, they all come with a cast iron base so there should be plenty of weight to keep it in place.

and yes...they are much quieter than a hand held drill!!

rmhlogonew.jpg
  • Contributing Member
Posted

Yes, Much quieter, when assembled correctly, you turn it on, and it is quieter than a dryer running without clothes in it.... As for the size, both the drills are the same size, the one differance in the two is the chuck and the handle. I think you will like it once you get used to it.

"The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE

Her: Hit Me

Him: Do you want me to use the knife?

Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!

Posted
Ed,

Great job on the briefcase. Really love the design.

I wanted to make one suggestion though. On your liners. When you secure them down to the panels prior to sewing. Skive the edges down about 3/32" from your stitch line to the edge. This way when you glue the seams down and sew it up the liner won't show through the edge. Then when you slick it it, it will look like one piece.

But excellent work.

Thanks for the feedback. i had been wondering whether I should do this. i was worried that if I cut off too much of the liner it would be too short to get caught by the stitch and then would be held on only by contact cement. My stitching has gotten much straighter since this worry so I should go ahead and give it a try now.

Now I'm trying to think of the best way to skive this liner, which is sometimes only 1.5 oz suede. Sometimes it's 3/4 oz suede. I was thinking that I could glue the liner down securely to the edge, then lightly skive the entire edge, veg tan (sometimes chrome tanned or Latigo) and suede lining. My only other option is to cut the suede lining back with a scissors, which would risk inaccurate cutting.

Just when I thought I was cutting down my prep time....

Thanks, again. I'll do this with the next bag.

Ed

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Ed. You can trim off the lining neatly and consistantly with a large edge tool. Make a small cut with something like an exacto knife to get started then run around with the edge tool. Holding the tool as flat as possible and having the edge tool sharp will give you a skived appearance.

Barra

"If You're not behind the Troops, please feel free to stand in front of them"

Posted
Ed. You can trim off the lining neatly and consistantly with a large edge tool. Make a small cut with something like an exacto knife to get started then run around with the edge tool. Holding the tool as flat as possible and having the edge tool sharp will give you a skived appearance.

Barra

Wonderful, idea. Thanks so much. now i have to learn how to sharpen edgers, because i think mine are getting a bit dull.

My edgers are from Tandy. I have the ones that give the rounded edges and ones that take off more of an angle. Should I use the latter?

Ed

  • Contributing Member
Posted (edited)

Ed. I would probably use the latter. I would prepare your bags as you have been, just don't glue the lining down from the stitching to the edge to allow you to get in there and trim off. See the Major's response on page one. This will achieve the same effect but make the skiving a quick job.

Barra

Edited by barra

"If You're not behind the Troops, please feel free to stand in front of them"

Posted
Yes, Much quieter, when assembled correctly, you turn it on, and it is quieter than a dryer running without clothes in it.... As for the size, both the drills are the same size, the one differance in the two is the chuck and the handle. I think you will like it once you get used to it.

I got the drill press today and have it all set up but the chuck. I can't figure out how to install it. The directions state that I should tap the chuck lightly onto the spindle, but that doesn't really do anything. I can't imagine the chuck will stay on at 2100 RPMs or higher just by tapping it onto the spindle. I can only imagine what will happen if that heavy chuck comes flying off.

I'll call Harbour Freight tomorrow, but can you guys point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Ed

  • Members
Posted

If it is like the old one I used to have, you only put in the chuck when you are needing to change out a bit or setup. Then you remove it and store it somewhere you can find easy...they get lost around my shop a bit to easy at times...

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