Extending goat suede

[scrapyarddog]

Trying to use some ultra soft goat suede as lining for some bags and ran into a problem: the one piece gusset measures 40.67" x 8", and I can't find any goat suede long enough to cover the area. The main reason I'm using goat suede is because it's roughly 1~1.5 oz thick, slightly better cow. I'm not using pig because I don't like the pores showing.

I'm thinking using lapped seam to extend 3 pieces of goat suede to get to the length I want, hiding the seams at the corners of the gusset so it can't be easily seen. Perhaps, I can use a sewing machine for this but really don't want to do so. I also thought about using Al Stohlman's 3 piece construction but I'm not a big fan of 3 piece gusset on these bags.

Also thought about splitting the bridle leather I have and use that as lining for the gusset (so the inside and outside of the gusset would look the same), but use goat suede still for the main body of the bag.

Any suggestions?

[Rockoboy]

Do you have any diagrams or pics of how you want it to look? I got a bit very lost in your description.

[scrapyarddog]

On 7/18/2018 at 12:32 PM, Rockoboy said:

Do you have any diagrams or pics of how you want it to look? I got a bit very lost in your description.

The area that needs lining is 39.5" x 8". I cannot find a piece of goat suede big enough to cover this area so I stitched 3 pieces of goat suede to create a piece large enough to cover the area.

 

The next issue is how to glue the leather and the suede lining together. I tried to apply contact cement on both the surface leather and lining. Failed on the first attempt. On the second attempt, I applied cement on the flesh side only, then put a long strip of wax paper on the leather but I left about half inch wide of the flesh side exposed. I then pressed the suede onto the leather and gradually pulled the wax paper out and pressed the lining to the leather. The lining stretch a little and cause a little distortion. Going to try Heat n Bond and see it'll make my life easier.

[chrisash]

I think the idea of the wax paper it to have both sides glued so you get the strength of the contact glue and the wax paper keeps both sides apart until both in place

[scrapyarddog]

9 hours ago, chrisash said:

I think the idea of the wax paper it to have both sides glued so you get the strength of the contact glue and the wax paper keeps both sides apart until both in place

The problem I had on the first try was contact cement gave the goat suede too much weight, made it drape too much and eventually the suede wrinkled and glued to itself here and there. It's too soft and stretchy so by the time I pulled it apart the piece was ruined.

On my second try, I only had cement on the leather side and left the pieces to dry overnight and adhesion seems ok. I did pull the goat suede off a test piece but judging from the layer of suede residue left on the leather, the cement was fine and it was the goat suede itself being loose.

I'll try Heat n Bond next week. Thinking that'll make a less messy scene. 

 

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