Fiebings Pro (oil) Dye Questions

[Russ498]

I am new to leathercraft. I started buying mostly Tandy products. I started using their water-based dyes but very quickly became dissatisfied with the streaky results. I made the decision to go all in and switch to Fiebings  Pro (oil) dye.   I ordered a small container of every color they have.  I know that it uses an alcohol carrier.   I did order several containers of the dye reducer.

 My questions:

1) What is the best agent to use for cleanup whether it be hands or work surfaces?    

2) I prefer to spray whenever possible.  Does this need to be diluted to go through an airbrush. If so, what is the best ratio?   Is there any other readily available substance that can be used to reduce this such as rubbing alcohol?  

3)  I always pretreated leather with Neatsfoot oil to aid in dye absorption. Is this necessary with this product?  

4) How long does it take to dry and how long should you wait before you begin other work on the leather?

 

Thanks all

[YinTx]

Can't answer all of your questions, but:

1)  regular alchohol works great.

2)  Most do dilute to spray.  I don't spray  so will have to wait for someone else to answer.

3) Not necessary.  But you will need to oil afterwards.

4) Dries fast.  Most wait a few hours to a day, but you could get away with less if needed.

also, reducer can be denatured alcohol, available at your local hardware store.  You can make most colors with a few basic ones, so you wouldn't have to have so many bottles on hand.  Serge Volken has a video on youtube about this, along with some other very useful tips.

YinTx

[SaddleBags]

I'm kinda like Yin.  I can only tell you what I do. 

1)  I use Everclear to reduce.  As for cleaning your hands.  I never have that problem.  Nitrile gloves are the easiest thing to use and throw away - with or without latex.

2) I don't spray but have heard that you should reduce (thin) to spray.

3) I oil everything prior to dyeing to give life to the leather.  This I do regardless of what type or color I'm using.

4) I usually let it dry over night.   

[NVLeatherWorx]

I am also in the relatively the same boat as Yin and SaddleBags:

1)  I never reduce unless I am looking to lighten the shade and then I only use the Dye Reducer as it is specifically formulated to work with these dyes.  You can use other alcohol based products but the results may be different.  Cleaning hands, I just wear Nitrile gloves and discard when they need to be changed out.

2)  I too do not spray as this often requires multiple applications to get the proper coverage and dye penetration depth that you need for long-term success.  And that is most likely due to the thinning in the first place.  I just stick with the good ole dauber or a sponge for larger items.

3)  I oil before hand and afterwards.  First oil will help the dye to absorb better and the final oil brings back some of the conditioning that is lost while the dye dries.

4)  I always let a dye job, regardless of what application number it is, no less than 8 hours, 12 is preferred. 

[JLSleather]

I use Fiebing's dye reducer, which is made for thinning that dye.  But I thin it for lighter shades - it will spray right out of the bottle in most airbrushes.  I don't oil BEFORE dye, but I sometimes oil afterward (not always).  And drying time will depend on the amount you applied.  Normally, I let it set overnight.  That isn't necessary unless you applied the dye heavily, but it's a habit I got in to doing just part of streamlining the process.  In the morning, everything is ready to go.

[billybopp]

I think you're going to like the pro dye!  It's FAR nicer than the Tandy water-based.

1.  As most, I use gloves when dying, but OOPS happens.   By far the best hand cleaner I've ever used is "Dye-Gone-II".  It leaves a little bit of a smell on your hands, but removes dye pretty darn well.  It also works on fabrics, at least to some extent.  Whether hands or fabric, if you can get to it quickly it's easier.

2.  It's thin enough to go through an airbrush just fine, but I thin it about 50/50 so that I can control it a little better .. More spray, darker color.  I have used dye reducer, but mostly use 90% rubbing alcohol now and can't tell the difference.

3.  I don't pre-oil.  I've tried it and again couldn't tell the difference - but that could just be my technique. YMMV.  I do post oil most of the time since alcohol / dye tends to dry and harden the leather a bit.  Sometimes tho, that hardening works to your advantage!

4.  I don't really know how long it takes to dry - that probably depends on how much dye I guess.  I just let it sit overnight and that works fine.

 

- Bill