Troubleshooting Turn Shoes

[Matt S]

@blueblade3000 I'm no expert at edge-stitching but hopefully this will hope a little. It's not pretty but was, at the very least, a fun way to spend my tea break.

Managed to find a bit of 4mm sole leather from the scrap bin (which came from someone else's scrap bin). Notice that it's very firm and compressed. I've edge sewn it to a piece of 2mm chrome tan, which is probably a similar thickness and temper to what you'll be using for an upper. 6mm (4SPI) spacing. The stitch line is approx the same distance from the edge of each piece of leather as its own thickness.

I used a curved awl that I got years ago, swore at, and threw in the cupboard. Wouldn't pierce anything out the box except my left hand but gave it a quick lick on the belt grinder and it did the job. Not the best edge but this is only for half a dozen stitches. It took a bit of welly to push the awl through the sole leather but no hammering needed. If I ever get around to making a pair of shoes I'll sharpen it properly.

Thread is some old waxed red 18/7 linen that I thought would show up well. (Needle was John James 00 for all you rivet counters out there.)

The intention is, of course, to press the awl through the edge of the leather at around the middle of the thickness. You will see that the bottom hole in my sample tore out -- it was too shallow, probably a third to a quarter the thickness of the leather. I found that a rotating movement was needed with my wrist at the same time as pushing from the right to the left. Unlike a harness awl, which is diamond shaped, this curved awl is oval shaped. It has two cutting edges. (In this way it matches awl finds from Jorvik.) I found that a gentle left-right wiggle helped to ease the awl through the more difficult bits once the awl was into the leather about 1mm. I suspect that this is much more acceptable with 1/4" spacing than 1/8".

[bootsmt]

You need to sand the flaky stuff off. It doesn't look like you have good leather from the photo. You want a solid leather . After you sand off the fleshy stuff case the leather ( soak it in tepid water until completely wet) and wrap it in a paper bag then sit over night. Next day when it is just damp hammer it lightly to firm it a bit. When dry place your holes about 1/4" apart or slightly shorter come out about 1/2 way through the outside edge. I like to start about 3/8" back from the edge when I start my holes. If the leather keeps ripping then watch how you are placing the SHARP awl into the leather  and if that is correct then you may need better leather. Bootsmt

[blueblade3000]

Thank you all for the guidance. Looks like I need the right awl and to prep this leather. I will probably pick up that video on turnshoe making also. Great forum, you've been very helpful! 

[chrisash]

Nigel Armatage does a video on box stitch where he punches each piece with the pricking iron and then sews the tqo together, i wonder if you could do similar as the only difference is one is flat and the other at 90 degree, but pricking through each side would appear to give a more consistant stitch route

Will admit i have not tried it apart from a test of box stitch copying Nigel so in no way experienced to make the suggestion

[Aven]

5 hours ago, Matt S said:

@blueblade3000

...I used a curved awl that I got years ago, swore at, and threw in the cupboard. Wouldn't pierce anything out the box except my left hand but gave it a quick lick on the belt grinder and it did the job. Not the best edge but this is only for half a dozen stitches. It took a bit of welly to push the awl through the sole leather but no hammering needed. If I ever get around to making a pair of shoes I'll sharpen it properly....

A proper sharpening and stropping it will make all the difference in the world.  It should just glide in.

If you look at the trailer for the video, you'll see Jason use the curved awl to make the holes in the soles.