Gaps in edge gluing

[csk]

Hi,

I'm a newbie, and I've just about completed a project that took quite a long time, but I had some problems with the gluing part.

There are gaps in some places on the edges, where the skiving wasn't exactly even, or my gluing wasn't right, and in one place that I had to add a filler piece. Here are the problem patches:

Is there a way to fix this? Some way to fill in the gaps that can be sanded?

Thanks,

Carolyn

[ComputerDoctor]

Re-cut the edge if allowable, so it is even and then finish the edge to your satisfaction, then if need be, use 'Super Glue,' very sparingly and hold in place or clamp until dry and then 'sand' any excess glue away and then use 'Edge coat' not edge dye and any imperfections will disappear.

This works for me as the black edge coat I use covers all of those little gaps.

Please understand that I am an amateur but this works for me.

Sam:)

[fredk]

I would use a thin glue applicator or diamond point modelling tool to prise open that area and then apply some contact adhesive. Clamp up the area nice and tight, allow some adhesive to squeeze out. As the glue sets it becomes rubbery. At that point I'd cut away the excess with a sharp scalpel.

[csk]

Thank you very much for your responses. Makes me feel that it's not a total loss

I will try your suggestions!

 

[csk]

fredk,

Would you suggest cutting out the dried glue that's in there after prying it open?

[fredk]

1 hour ago, csk said:

Would you suggest cutting out the dried glue that's in there after prying it open?

I would [& have] only remove any prior glue if its loose and ready to come away. If the two bits of leather separate easily then the glue has soaked in and should not cause any problem. You can, if need be, use a scalpel to cut the joint opening longer for a longer length of fresh adhesive to be applied

[csk]

Thanks again fredk. 

This forum is a great help.

Carolyn

[Clintonville Leather]

Whenever I glue something I put a piece of scrap leather on top of the project and hit it a few times with a mallet.  Make sure the scrap is larger than the mallet surface.  If you whack the edge of the scrap with the mallet you may leave a mark on your project.  

[ScoobyNewbie]

Do you whack it to remove any bubbles?

[Rockoboy]

4 hours ago, ScoobyNewbie said:

Do you whack it to remove any bubbles?

I think the whack is to press the 2 surfaces together. Where possible, I prefer to place the glued piece under a weight or clamp it, but I have seen some accomplished leatherworkers use the whack method!

[chiefjason]

4 hours ago, ScoobyNewbie said:

Do you whack it to remove any bubbles?

 

It helps weld the contact cemented pieces together.  I use a 1lb dead blow hammer.  I pay particular attention to getting the edges.  I'm usuing 8-10 oz leather so I just hammer straight on the edges of the holster.  I have used clamps, linolium rollers, burnishers, etc.  I start off with the roller and burnishers to get started.  But since I started finishing with the hammer my edge issues are gone.  

[ScoobyNewbie]

Cool, thanks.

[immiketoo]

Ok, here's what I do.  I glue an over sized piece and then trim it to the proper size, making sure I glued past the line where I want to cut.  I also tap my edges where I glue.  TAP, not whack, and I use a mirror smooth cobblers hammer which leaves no marks in the leather.

Once it is dry, use a sharp knife to trim your piece to the desired shape and you'll never have that problem again.  Tapping the seam where you glue ensures the best bond possible between the pieces and you'd be hard pressed to separate the pieces.