PFAFF 1245 tensioner issue

[katit]

Need some advice/guidance on thread tension setup in my machine.

Here is what happening now. I use 92 thread with 22 needle, works great. I used following video to thread machine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35zxtSRFXwQ

Next I try to set bottom tension to be not so tight. I didn't know how it should be but I thought it should be just little tight. Just like this video shows

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41R2Og1AELE

Well, it doesn't work. If I do this - then bottom thread get's pulled up and I run out of adjustment on top thread (nut come off).

I had to barely put top adjustment on and then tighten bottom until I got good seam. Now bottom thread is not as easy to pull as on a video. When I finish a seam, raise needle and need to pull work - there is considerable resistance.

Is that normal or I should do something about? Or it's OK because I'm approaching thread size limit of machine? Seam itself seem to be good, no wrinkling, tight.

 

P.S. I think it's important to know that thread is "Tandy" brand polyester. I'm still waiting on my package from thread exchange

 

Edited October 15, 2018 by katit

[Pintodeluxe]

Manual for the 1245 shows not to go around the pin on the tension disc.  I never go around that pin.  That one change would add some tension inherently to the upper thread path.  It might be so much that you are "out of range" and the bobbin case tension cannot make up for it.

I know there are differences of opinion on this one, but lots of people thread the 1245 that way at first.  It looks like the thread will fall out of the tension discs if you don't go around the pin.  In my experience with the 1245, the thread has never fallen out of the tension discs... even when you don't go around the pin.   

Bobbin tension should feel really pretty light in normal use.   

Edited October 15, 2018 by Pintodeluxe

[Wizcrafts]

A number 22 needle is way to big for #92 thread. I use a #19 and get easy to position placement of the knots. The holes are tighter with a #19 needle, allowing you to have more leeway with the top and bottom tension adjustments.

[katit]

39 minutes ago, Pintodeluxe said:

Manual for the 1245 shows not to go around the pin on the tension disc.  I never go around that pin.  That one change would add some tension inherently to the upper thread path.  It might be so much that you are "out of range" and the bobbin case tension cannot make up for it.

I know there are differences of opinion on this one, but lots of people thread the 1245 that way at first.  It looks like the thread will fall out of the tension discs if you don't go around the pin.  In my experience with the 1245, the thread has never fallen out of the tension discs... even when you don't go around the pin.   

Bobbin tension should feel really pretty light in normal use.   

Interesting. This is how I was shown in a store to thread (not around a pin). Then I found video and "fixed" it.

Another mistake I found is bobbin direction. I put it on with thread "clock-wise" which seemed natural to me how thread will exit. Changed that now too.

 

33 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

A number 22 needle is way to big for #92 thread. I use a #19 and get easy to position placement of the knots. The holes are tighter with a #19 needle, allowing you to have more leeway with the top and bottom tension adjustments.

Hm. I read a lot of different auto-upholster forums and that's what people use. 92 with 22 needle. Or 138 with same needle if decorative seam needed..

That's what I was given with machine..

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, katit said:

Hm. I read a lot of different auto-upholster forums and that's what people use. 92 with 22 needle. Or 138 with same needle if decorative seam needed..

That's what I was given with machine..

Using a needle 3 sizes larger than optimum pokes oversized holes that don't hold the thread lockstitch knots firmly in place. Further, the appearance of the stitches will be shorter because of the larger holes at each end of each stitch.

[katit]

44 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Using a needle 3 sizes larger than optimum pokes oversized holes that don't hold the thread lockstitch knots firmly in place. Further, the appearance of the stitches will be shorter because of the larger holes at each end of each stitch.

That makes sense, thank you! I ordered some Schmetz #19 and Organ #20 needles, will see how it works.

But for now the best I was able to do is here... See top image - both vinyl and leather look decent. However, bottoms on vinyl look OK and leather look ugly. Is that a problem with oversized needle or something else? 

Also, in theory doesn't matter what material thickness if you setup tension correctly for thread/needle - it should work, right? I'm asking because now I'm setting it with 2 layers of vinyl/leather. But my actual sewing will involve layers of sew foam in-between.

 

 

[katit]

After posting pictures I noticed that it looks like not enough tension on top (judging by blue vinyl bottom)

So, I did another run inside after adjusting little (tighten top). Still little loose.

 

I did yet another adjustment and did inner most run. Now it looks like vinyl is perfect. But leather looks horrible on a bottom.

 

[Wizcrafts]

Once you get the smaller needles the bottom appearance will improve. You will also be able to tighten the top thread for a tighter lay on the surfaces.

Did you order leather point needles?

[katit]

24 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Once you get the smaller needles the bottom appearance will improve. You will also be able to tighten the top thread for a tighter lay on the surfaces.

Did you order leather point needles?

So, for what I have it's normal? I am new to this, don't even know what "proper" look should be. When you say "tighter" - isn't it a function of tightening bottom (and, in turn, top) ? Right now bottom have some resistance and top is close to maxing out on loosening.

I ordered Schmetz #19 standard (R)

and Organ #20 LR

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, katit said:

So, for what I have it's normal? I am new to this, don't even know what "proper" look should be. When you say "tighter" - isn't it a function of tightening bottom (and, in turn, top) ? Right now bottom have some resistance and top is close to maxing out on loosening.

I ordered Schmetz #19 standard (R)

and Organ #20 LR

You will see the difference when you install each of those needles and sew test strips. There is nothing to be gained from me spouting off my opinion before you have a chance to try it for yourself.