Singer 111W153 & table resto project

[DSloop]

Bobbin tension kinda stays the same unless you go from light to very heavy thread. Did you set it where the thread is resisting being pulled from the holder? It should not be loose, but offer good resistance.

Check ALL of the guides and little holes where the thread runs thru.If there is even a small groove for the thread to catch it will mess everything up. Get a good magnifying glass and check those out, along with the tension discs. I don't run the thread thru the small guide at the foot, it runs just fine with out going thru it.

I adjust the part in image 4 so it lets the thread thru freely, it don't require a lot of attention. (I think).

Remove the take up discs off as a pair, but leave the spring on the machine.

Wind the thread take up spring around clockwise 1 turn then put the discs back on. This can be a pain, make sure you don't trap the little spring with the discs, there is a shoulder back there for it .

Good luck.

[Sugarkryptonite]

2 hours ago, DSloop said:

Bobbin tension kinda stays the same unless you go from light to very heavy thread. Did you set it where the thread is resisting being pulled from the holder? It should not be loose, but offer good resistance.

Check ALL of the guides and little holes where the thread runs thru.If there is even a small groove for the thread to catch it will mess everything up. Get a good magnifying glass and check those out, along with the tension discs. I don't run the thread thru the small guide at the foot, it runs just fine with out going thru it.

I adjust the part in image 4 so it lets the thread thru freely, it don't require a lot of attention. (I think).

Remove the take up discs off as a pair, but leave the spring on the machine.

Wind the thread take up spring around clockwise 1 turn then put the discs back on. This can be a pain, make sure you don't trap the little spring with the discs, there is a shoulder back there for it .

Good luck.

Thanks. I had it like that, but then messed around with it a bit. I think I'll take it out again and set it. I had it so that if I hung the bobbin case from the thread vertically, if I jerked it vertically it would fall a slight amount and stop. Does that sound about right?

I'll double check all the points the thread runs through, also will recheck my timing tomorrow as I believe it had changed a bit since I reinstalled the thread tension release slider.

As for the thread take up spring, I did exactly as you mentioned, wound it around once clockwise until it seats on the little nub that sticks out to hold it. How much tension and at what angle do you set yours at? I'd say mine is at medium tension right now.

This is how I have it oriented: 

Thanks for all your help.

Edited January 23, 2019 by Sugarkryptonite

[DSloop]

tighten  the bobbin until it will not slide. these things like tension. thread take up spring is set at medium. How did you time it? there is a very good video on youtube about doing that. the author describes everything clearly. search for 111w155 setup/timing/maintenance..

How is the hook? nice and smooth and very pointy?

The point of the hook should be 1/16 of an inch above the needle eye as it starts back up. It should be moved as close as possible to the needle without touching it.( I think that's how it goes)

[Sugarkryptonite]

38 minutes ago, DSloop said:

tighten  the bobbin until it will not slide. these things like tension. thread take up spring is set at medium. How did you time it? there is a very good video on youtube about doing that. the author describes everything clearly. search for 111w155 setup/timing/maintenance..

How is the hook? nice and smooth and very pointy?

The point of the hook should be 1/16 of an inch above the needle eye as it starts back up. It should be moved as close as possible to the needle without touching it.( I think that's how it goes)

Thanks. Yes I followed Uwe's video.

I wouldn't say the hook is extremely pointy, but not extremely dull either, could probably do with a sharpening.

I actually found this thread which is quite interesting, and I believe to be the exact cause of the problem I'm having.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/70546-thread-gets-caught-under-hook-occasionally/

Also was just curious how you guys set your  thread tensions when you only have 1 color of thread? Right now I'm using 2 to be sure of the tensions and get it set up, but don't want to have to do that every time.

Edited January 23, 2019 by Sugarkryptonite

[DSloop]

You just learn by experience setting the tension, it don't take long.

That was an interesting video. I have two hooks, one a 35 dollar Chinese brand and a Simanco original. The Singer has more metal in the area where the thread was slipping off the hook in the video. It is about 3 mm longer there. I wonder if that has anything to do with it?

[Sugarkryptonite]

So I timed the machine again just to be sure, it's not so bad now. I realize now why I couldn't pull the material out half the time...it's because you need to turn the hand wheel until the needle thread has come off of the hook (if you stop while the thread is wrapped around the hook, you'll never get it out). 

The machine sews through leather quite well, 1 layer, 2, even 3 layers without adjusting the tensions, but man, I have some lighter upholstery type vinyl (still not THAT thin), and I just can't seem to get it to put the lock in the middle. It's extremely finnicky, sometimes it'll be fine, then you do another row of stitch and the loops will be showing (on one side or the other), it's never consistent compared to the leather. Is it just the thread that I'm using? Too thick? I've seen others on YouTube sew this stuff easily with even larger thread than I'm using...boo.

Like in this video, Alexander seems to be able to sew through many different types of materials without adjusting anything.

Although we don't see the locks of the stitches in the video, I'm guessing there aren't any...

Edited January 23, 2019 by Sugarkryptonite

[katit]

I am new as well, but already past that stage of worrying about tension Doesn't take much to develop this "adjust on a fly" skill. Stop worrying about knot on single layer of vinyl, it's not "real world" scenario. If material is VERY thin - chances are it's too big of a thread for it. I myself use 92 for everything. 2 layers of vinyl - no problem. One layer - no way it will hide knot. If you need to do 1 layer for decorative purpose just loosen top and let those be on a bottom.

Different color threads require different setup. Black is different from white. I have 92 from same manufacturer and they all different require slight tweak for different colors and materials. Bottom tension stays the same since it's always 92, I don't mess with it at all after figuring it out. You will be able to tell "by feel" even when you pull bottom thread out from machine.

Needle makes difference too. #20 with 92 will make bigger hole, knot can go up/down easier. #18 (what I use now) makes smaller hole in works better to my liking.

 

And for the next question of bottom stitch  prettiness: Nope, it will be ugly on some materials Experiment with needles, but out of all money I spent I settled on #18 LR needle.

Edited January 23, 2019 by katit

[Wizcrafts]

There is an animated gif on Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines' website, on the Videos page, showing how a lockstitch is formed. It may help clear up some confusion among newbies to lockstitch machines.

[Sugarkryptonite]

6 hours ago, katit said:

I am new as well, but already past that stage of worrying about tension Doesn't take much to develop this "adjust on a fly" skill. Stop worrying about knot on single layer of vinyl, it's not "real world" scenario. If material is VERY thin - chances are it's too big of a thread for it. I myself use 92 for everything. 2 layers of vinyl - no problem. One layer - no way it will hide knot. If you need to do 1 layer for decorative purpose just loosen top and let those be on a bottom.

Different color threads require different setup. Black is different from white. I have 92 from same manufacturer and they all different require slight tweak for different colors and materials. Bottom tension stays the same since it's always 92, I don't mess with it at all after figuring it out. You will be able to tell "by feel" even when you pull bottom thread out from machine.

Needle makes difference too. #20 with 92 will make bigger hole, knot can go up/down easier. #18 (what I use now) makes smaller hole in works better to my liking.

 

And for the next question of bottom stitch  prettiness: Nope, it will be ugly on some materials Experiment with needles, but out of all money I spent I settled on #18 LR needle.

Thank you Wiz and Katit. I saw the thread you made regarding tension issues...I can say you had a lot of the same questions as I do, and they were answered in a way by others that still left you and I both confused. 

Thanks for your tips about the vinyl. What do you mean when you say 1 layer is not a "real world" scenario? As in usually you will be sewing through 2 layers of something at least? I guess you're right. I have the machine sewing quite well through leather, 1, 2 layers quite easily. Even 2 layers of the vinyl I have it does OK (loops are still slightly visible on the bottom...but as you mentioned, thread might be too big, etc) And you're right maybe I should try a #19 or #18 needle, I have #20 right now (all I have, I just started).

Edited January 24, 2019 by Sugarkryptonite

[katit]

Why would you sew 1 layer? If you connecting 2 layers its a minimum. If you do single reinforced seam it’s 3 layers. But in my case I have scrim foam and it becomes even thicker. Plus some vinyls just different and don’t even need 92, 69 is good. 

Answers I got all good. I was more concerned with cosmetics and if you go with smaller needle/hole it will be different