Jump to content
Captjoey

Juki 1541S Stitch Loop when making 90 degree turn

Recommended Posts

I sew boat canvas but hope to get some advise on this site. When I make a 90 turn I get a loop on the next stitch on the bottom side. Does ok with 45 degree turn or 135 degree turn. Tech worked on machine and could not fix it. Someone else told me it was in the take up spring but I have tried different combinations to no Avail. I am using a #18 Needle and Solarfix PTFE thread 2200HD/3-T8. JUKI 1541-S machine i think about a 2010 model. Photos are under side of material sewing around the horn clockwise with two pieces of weblon regetta. All others functions seem fine, pretty stitch and even on both sides except when making 90 turn. HELP !!!

Juki stitch 1a.jpg

Juki stitch 2a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you letting the needle come up a 1/4" before making the turn, to be sure the hook catches the thread?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not familiar with the thread you are using as  it compares to "V" size but since you are using a #18 needle I am going to assume it's V69 or max V92 equivalent. If it thicker you will need to go up to the correct needle size. What I found best for my Juki 1541s was to have the needle on the upstroke, stop the machine raise the foot off the material using the knee lift and carefully turn the material 90 degrees so as not to bend/deflect the needle also will I keep my bobbin tension normally a little more on the high side of tight.

kgg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As you know, If you consider the needle is best to still be in the material when you turn, is easier. So with that if we take a look, and it can be a practice thing with the knee bump/lift.

I mean getting use to the feel for presser foot lifting a lot! yet keeping the eyelet below the material. 

Its going to be somewhat acquired and then additional acquirements in material type changes. 

 

Good day 

Floyd

Edited by brmax

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This excersize was pretty easy for me on my machine. Stop with needle jast starting to raise, just slightly lift feet and turn material. Voila!

What puzzles me is that author doing exactly the same but not getting desired result. And look at other corners (not 90) - they all look good. OP, anything you do differently with those corners other then how much you turn your work?

I wonder if there is some kind of misadjustment on machine which opens top thread tensioner too early? But why other corners look good is a question.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First of all thanks for the responces.  I am pretty sure this is a problem with my machine and not caused by techinique.  I have no issues with the machine that I use at work.  This is my Home shop machine.  I've had several people sew on it and they all get the same result.  The tech adjusted everything he could think of and could not get it fixed.  I'm just before taking it to a JUKI service center but that is a 4.5 hr drive one way.  Keep the ideas coming.  Maybe we can figure it out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure if you can make a video of hook and whole process - someone will help you here.

It seems that top thread get's "hung up" on something underneath on a way up. Maybe it's related to how you turn and how loop just slightly angles underneath.  Video of this would help for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im going to have to ask is the machine the same as your work machine. Also is the tech the same company and or person as your work calls on. 

In any case I thought it strange most all issues were in corners of the same turn. So with some more or lots more questions, particulars can this same test be made with both directional turns. 

In this I would deffinetly bump up to a 19 to better assess possibilites. In that Im familar with solarfix and do use 18, but were not discussing needles primarily. 

We really could look at positions of the tension spring and take up lever when we know needle eyelet is still below the material but on its continued way up. 

Just doing a straight line stitch would be the choice.  Its tough doing armchair diagnostics. So a big thanks for the pics but its gonna take much more and or a video.

Remember these issues are exactly what this forum section is all about, you are at the right place!  :rockon:

 

Good day

Floyd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, katit said:

I'm sure if you can make a video of hook and whole process - someone will help you here.

It seems that top thread get's "hung up" on something underneath on a way up. Maybe it's related to how you turn and how loop just slightly angles underneath.  Video of this would help for sure.

The machine I sew on at work is a Consew 206RB-5.  The person who worked on my machine is a traveling repairman who works on the ones at work. Loop happens on left and right turns. I will attempt to make a video soon of the process to better help.  Stay Tuned !!

Thanks

CaptJoey

Edited by Captjoey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry reposting since it posted in the wrong place.

The machine I sew on at work is a Consew 206RB-5.  The person who worked on my machine is a traveling repairman who works on the ones at work. (No local repair shop here in Wilmington, NC) Loop happens on left and right turns. Also it is actually the stitch that you stop on that is looping not the next one. I will attempt to make a video soon of the process top and bottom to better help.  Stay Tuned !!

Thanks

CaptJoey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Out of curiosity have you tried not to raise the needle the 1/4 " before lifting the feet but having the needle buried deeper so you can just clear the material. The reason I ask is that with so materials, the bottom layer of material can sometimes be sucked/pushed down under the feet dog slightly depending on the material, how aggressive the feed dog is, how high the feed dog is set and how much pressure the foot is applying to the material. This with the material being twisted may cause the thread to catch slightly. An example of this would be thick ripstop on top and say a terry type material on the bottom. The terry will definitely get sucked in slightly. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/17/2019 at 8:19 AM, kgg said:

Out of curiosity have you tried not to raise the needle the 1/4 " before lifting the feet but having the needle buried deeper so you can just clear the material. The reason I ask is that with so materials, the bottom layer of material can sometimes be sucked/pushed down under the feet dog slightly depending on the material, how aggressive the feed dog is, how high the feed dog is set and how much pressure the foot is applying to the material. This with the material being twisted may cause the thread to catch slightly. An example of this would be thick ripstop on top and say a terry type material on the bottom. The terry will definitely get sucked in slightly. 

Thanks but I have tried everything between just barely raising the needle (to avoid skipping a stitch) and raising it as high as possibel.  Same result.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

took some video but can't get it into a small enough file to upload herer. I will try putting on youtube later and posting link.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/15/2019 at 5:31 PM, Captjoey said:

When I make a 90 turn I get a loop on the next stitch on the bottom side.

 

On 1/15/2019 at 5:31 PM, Captjoey said:

Photos are under side of material sewing

I think the previous responders were thinking that the loops were on the top side. The OP stated that the loops are the bobbin side, not the top. Let's assume this is a fact.

If the bobbin thread forms a loop under the material, the bobbin might be inserted so that it's feeding the wrong way, or the anti-backlash spring is missing, or the bobbin tension spring may be too loose. All of these, but especially a missing anti-backlash spring can allow the bobbin thread to continue feeding when you stop suddenly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It sure is tough one!  I am trying to come up with how some extra thread can get out  there, I mean with the case tension spring doing its job. Additionally only noticable after a corner, ya this ones a

So if the last three stitchs are made in a slow process, Im wondering.

Though I still have faith in that case tension springs only letting out whats regulated on the hooks pull.

Good day

Floyd

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, brmax said:

It sure is tough one!  I am trying to come up with how some extra thread can get out  there, I mean with the case tension spring doing its job. Additionally only noticable after a corner, ya this ones a

So if the last three stitchs are made in a slow process, Im wondering.

Though I still have faith in that case tension springs only letting out whats regulated on the hooks pull.

Good day

Floyd

 

If the bobbin anti-backlash spring is missing, AND if the bobbin is inserted so it feeds in the same direction as the shuttle is rotating, AND the bobbin tension is a little on the loose side, extra thread can be pulled out when the OP makes a right angle turn. Personally, I would tighten the bobbin tension, then balance the knots with more top tension, then pull the bobbin out and turn it over so it feeds against the rotation of the shuttle. I've been know to do weird shit like that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will play with the bobbin tention today and see if that helps.  I am leaning toward boxing the machine up and shipping it somewhere.  Since I am in NC maybe this place. https://www.billsewing.com/ They are a Juki Dealer.  But I am open to sugestions if someone has a better place

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok,  keep us in the loop of your results. The bobbin cases are likely to have a bluish flat spring in it, as the anti spin part. Most do yet they can be purchased without. So this could be optional and of interest.  Also some of these cases could be purchased extra as a real benefit later on, this you likely know.

 

Good day

Floyd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...