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hawgrider

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New to farting around with leather. This place was recommended by a leather guy I know. Looking forward to picking up some of the tricks of the trade. I've been dabbling in making a few knife sheaths and a couple of handgun holsters.

 

Here is the 1911-A1 holster I'm working on.  I still need to put the finish top coat on.

EnpzOM7.jpg

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Hmmm, . . . do I know you from somewhere ????

Cheap advice, . . . if you contact cemented both wings correctly, . . . all that stitching you did around the belt loop holes was really not necessary, . . . adds some character, . . . but for me, . . . that is expensive character, . . .

Other than that, . . . looks OK, . . . 

One other thing, . . . use one single wrap of plastic around the gun, . . . the way you wadded that up, . . . it may stretch the holster and make it be a bit on the loose side.

May God bless,

Dwight

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4 hours ago, Dwight said:

Hmmm, . . . do I know you from somewhere ????

Cheap advice, . . . if you contact cemented both wings correctly, . . . all that stitching you did around the belt loop holes was really not necessary, . . . adds some character, . . . but for me, . . . that is expensive character, . . .

Other than that, . . . looks OK, . . . 

One other thing, . . . use one single wrap of plastic around the gun, . . . the way you wadded that up, . . . it may stretch the holster and make it be a bit on the loose side.

May God bless,

Dwight

Ah ha my favorite preacher is in the house.  

I used a Fiebing's leathercraft cement. I wasn't sure how the glue would hold up after I soaked it to wet mold. Yes it was a couple hours more work to sew around the belt loops. It would be nice to skip that like you say. Do you think the glue I used will hold up to the soaking for wet molding since its not contact cement? 

I punched those holes by hand with an awl and it shows in my stitchwork although these look better than my first holster I did. Ordered a diamond hole chisel set so my holes should improve hopefully my saddle Stitch improves as well

Edited by hawgrider

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I have no experience with the leathercraft cement, . . . though I've heard good words about it.  Back over 50 years ago I began using Weldwood contact cement for formica kitchen cabinets, . . . found out it worked on a host of other stuff, . . . naturally gravitated to it for leather, . . . have never been sorry.

You can put two pieces of leather together with it, . . . and then rip them apart, . . . but the glue doesn't give, . . . the leather does.  Leathercraft cement could not be any better, . . . only equal the Weldwood.

I actually did a small holster for a Bersa Thunder years ago, . . . Weldwood only, . . . not one stitch in it.  I'd bet it is still together.

And yes, . . . it holds up even thru wet forming.

Anyway, . . . keep up the good work.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

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56 minutes ago, Dwight said:

I have no experience with the leathercraft cement, . . . though I've heard good words about it.  Back over 50 years ago I began using Weldwood contact cement for formica kitchen cabinets, . . . found out it worked on a host of other stuff, . . . naturally gravitated to it for leather, . . . have never been sorry.

You can put two pieces of leather together with it, . . . and then rip them apart, . . . but the glue doesn't give, . . . the leather does.  Leathercraft cement could not be any better, . . . only equal the Weldwood.

I actually did a small holster for a Bersa Thunder years ago, . . . Weldwood only, . . . not one stitch in it.  I'd bet it is still together.

And yes, . . . it holds up even thru wet forming.

Anyway, . . . keep up the good work.

May God bless,

Dwight

I'll have to see if I can find the weldwood contract cement. Thanks for the howdy and the advise.

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Lowes has it for something like $13 a pint, . . . for the liquid, . . . the gel is a bit more, . . . and at times is well worth the extra couple bucks.

The liquid tends to thicken up as the solvent escapes, . . . adding a bit of acetone thins it right back out.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Nice holster. I've had the same results with Weldwood contact cement, great stuff, held fine through wet molding for me too.

Took me a second or two to figure out where you were from. Said it fast and the lights went on! Spent way too  many years there in the 70's and 80's. (Lansing).

Jeff

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27 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

Nice holster. I've had the same results with Weldwood contact cement, great stuff, held fine through wet molding for me too.

Took me a second or two to figure out where you were from. Said it fast and the lights went on! Spent way too  many years there in the 70's and 80's. (Lansing).

Jeff

LOL! Yes  "meat chic ken." The great lakes state. Lansing is about an hour from where I'm at.

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First coat of Resolene seems like it went on ok this is the first time I've used Resolene. Probably do at least one more coat of it?

 

AIH6JkA.jpg

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Did you cut it with water first??

Should always be cut 50 / 50 with tap water, . . . otherwise it goes on too thick, . . . becomes brittle at times.

I usually do 2 coats of it reduced, . . . sometimes 3.

May God bless,

Dwight

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42 minutes ago, Dwight said:

Did you cut it with water first??

Should always be cut 50 / 50 with tap water, . . . otherwise it goes on too thick, . . . becomes brittle at times.

I usually do 2 coats of it reduced, . . . sometimes 3.

May God bless,

Dwight

No sir I sure didn't cut it with water opps! Didn't know I was suppose to. The bottle said apply with damp sponge. On the second coat it seems a bit dimpled? So how bad is the damage going to be since I didn't cut it with water?

Here is the second coat un cut. 

 

Utxg2yh.jpg

 

 

Edited by hawgrider

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You may find it cracks, . . . and I don't know why, . . . something in the formula makes it like being put on in very light coats, . . . hence the 50/50 cut with water.

But it is a holster, . . . not a belt or wallet that will be constantly flexing one way or another.

Personally, . . . I like those 50 cent bristle pig brushes from Harbor Freight, . . . just swirl it on, . . . work it up to a lather like, . . . brush out the bubbles, . . . hang it up to dry.  That's how I do it, and I've never really had any troubles.  Got lucky though, . . . I read about the cut before I used it.

May God bless,

Dwight

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A lot of Resolene oops moments can be buffed out. You should always buff between coats, anyway.

Jeff

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2 hours ago, Dwight said:

You may find it cracks, . . . and I don't know why, . . . something in the formula makes it like being put on in very light coats, . . . hence the 50/50 cut with water.

But it is a holster, . . . not a belt or wallet that will be constantly flexing one way or another.

Personally, . . . I like those 50 cent bristle pig brushes from Harbor Freight, . . . just swirl it on, . . . work it up to a lather like, . . . brush out the bubbles, . . . hang it up to dry.  That's how I do it, and I've never really had any troubles.  Got lucky though, . . . I read about the cut before I used it.

May God bless,

Dwight

I went ahead and mixed up some 50/50 live and learn appreciate the tip. 

1 hour ago, alpha2 said:

A lot of Resolene oops moments can be buffed out. You should always buff between coats, anyway.

Jeff

Good Idea soft cloth no lint I would presume?

 

Well the next one will be even better. Here it is I did this one for one of my son inlaws.

 

rILLqem.jpg

Edited by hawgrider

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Yes, soft cloth, don't want scratches, you'd be surprised how easily some leather and finishes can be scratched by cloths.

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2 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

Yes, soft cloth, don't want scratches, you'd be surprised how easily some leather and finishes can be scratched by cloths.

Buffing did help appreciate the tip.

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