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Posted (edited)

I tried a few ideas yesterday and here's how it went:

- I have been using a bar of 50% bees and 50% candle wax - I don't notice the difference as far as ease of pushing the awl blade through. The awl blade is brand new from Barry King and extremely well polished. I also stropped it a little just to be sure.

- Tested a thin layer of Aquilim 315 all the way to the edge:  still gums up the awl  (however I just noticed the note to try watering it down, I will test that out and try again)

-Tried thin layer of aquilim on either side of the stitch line but not on it: this of course worked well but can be hard to put it down in the right spot. This could be a solution if it is just put on the inside of a stitch line - it may hold up enough to do stitchwork and be out of the way.

- Tested out Fiebling's Leathercraft cement all the way to the edge: this is very viscous so you have to be very careful applying, once fully dry - the awl blade passes easily through it with no problem. Seems to dry harder than Aquilim, but still stay flexible. Also seems fairly strong if you let it fully cure - though slightly less grip than Aquilim. One tip I used is to apply to both sides being glued, then use a heat gun to get it to a gummy stage, then press together and clamp. The reason being is it will prevent the glue from running out of the edge.

 

I will be trying out the glycerine soap - maybe saddle soap? Also thinning the Aquilim 315 with some water to make it much thinner.

Thanks!

 

Edited by MrLentz
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Posted

Well after trying the watered down Aquilim 315, it is still very difficult to get the awl through.

I also tried a very thin layer of Fiebings Leathercraft cement and heat gun dried it to a tacky state, then pressed together. That does not seem to be a problem for the awl at all. I would say the bond is about 1/2 as strong, but it should work for most projects. The Aquilim 315 is probably best used if you are easily able to avoid both the stitch line and the edge. The edge seems to create the goobers while trying to burnish etc..

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Posted

Try using a non-water based cement.

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Posted
7 hours ago, MrLentz said:

The edge seems to create the goobers while trying to burnish etc..

Have you tried burnishing the edge with dry canvas to get rid of the dried contact adhesive? I find it grabs the smallest speck from between the layers.

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

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Posted
8 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

Have you tried burnishing the edge with dry canvas to get rid of the dried contact adhesive? I find it grabs the smallest speck from between the layers.

I Haven't tried the dry canvas on it. Though while I did manage to scrape off all the goobers...I noticed that a few days later it had been pushing even more out. It is strange because I did properly dry everything. It's as if it is leaking goobers over time.

Posted
10 hours ago, MrLentz said:

It's as if it is leaking goobers over time.

Maybe its a very slow leak caused by the compression of the glue between the layers. Something I have never seen.

For future reference, maybe apply the glue 1/8 - 1/4 inch away from the edge to allow for sanding and or glue leakage.

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

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