Members katit Posted March 5, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 5, 2019 11 minutes ago, Nuttish said: I used 1/4" OD round weldable urethane belting for the drive pulleys and 1/2" weldable urethane for the infinite belt. Both from McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/59725K804 https://www.mcmaster.com/6075K12 Looks like you're missing the guide. IIRC it attaches to one of the holes behind and just to the left of the presser foot with an M6 thumb screw. In this picture I'm using an M6 sewing machine presser foot screw, but I replaced it with a bigger one with a plastic knob from Campbell Randall. You see that an OEM guide is just a slotted piece of steel that you can move in and out. You could make one out of scrap acrylic or aluminum with a drill and jewelers saw. Yes, machines look identical with very slight differences. Obviously labels differ. I like yours better I am awaiting response from Campbell Randall. Seems like "Manufacturers Supply" was like a franchise? Same font, same 2 words. But our skivers say "Saint Louis" and manual you attached above says "Campbell Randall" So, left cover is a good thing. I got this diamong thingy, wasn't sure what it's for. So it's a keeper. I will not have separate table. I'm going to reuse my sewing machine table and just make adapter so I can "insert" skiver into the same opening and use sewing machine motor. I do have guide rod and knob. They are just rusted and you can't really see on a picture. It's in Pile #2 on picture attached. So, #1 is cleaned in kerosene and sprayed with WD40 (lesson learned, for some reason metal rusts very good after kerosene dries out). Those are all moving parts, all will be cleaned and lubed before assembly. #2 is pile of bolts and small rusted parts which I'm going to nickel plate #3 is bigger parts which will be sanded/acid cleaned and spray painted along with main casings. Also, on your picture I quited - there is black "hook" showing. I don't have it. I have small knob which pulls on rod with spring. I guess it's the same part but looks different. And question. What IS that bolt on very top of machine? It's right where top cas arm bends and it's got thick washer. I got regular bolt and you got allen head bolt. Seems to be just a bold going into case iron. There is also small pin sticking out behind. Do you know what is the purpose of it? Quote
Members jimi Posted March 5, 2019 Members Report Posted March 5, 2019 2 hours ago, katit said: And question. What IS that bolt on very top of machine? It's right where top cas arm bends and it's got thick washer. I got regular bolt and you got allen head bolt. Seems to be just a bold going into case iron. There is also small pin sticking out behind. Do you know what is the purpose of it? Nice restoration Katit, keep the pictures coming...The bolt on the arm is where a lamp would go. Quote
Members katit Posted March 6, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2019 Placed an order with Campbell-Randall on broken part. 3 weeks wait, not that bad. Right belt cover is not available, so will go without. So I got 3 weeks to get everything else ready/painted/prepped. Quote
Members Nuttish Posted March 7, 2019 Members Report Posted March 7, 2019 On 3/5/2019 at 1:17 PM, katit said: So, left cover is a good thing. I got this diamong thingy, wasn't sure what it's for. So it's a keeper. I will not have separate table. I'm going to reuse my sewing machine table and just make adapter so I can "insert" skiver into the same opening and use sewing machine motor. #2 is pile of bolts and small rusted parts which I'm going to nickel plate Also, on your picture I quited - there is black "hook" showing. I don't have it. I have small knob which pulls on rod with spring. I guess it's the same part but looks different. And question. What IS that bolt on very top of machine? It's right where top cas arm bends and it's got thick washer. I got regular bolt and you got allen head bolt. Seems to be just a bold going into case iron. There is also small pin sticking out behind. Do you know what is the purpose of it? The hook holds a spring attached to the bottom of the feed roll pivot. It allows you to adjust spring tension based on the thickness/stiffness of your material. The manuals describe how to do this. This particular machine has two additional adjustments on the feed roll mechanism that more or less match your description of knob/rod/spring, but they perform other functions than the purely vertical pressure adjustment the hook/spring controls. The one in the rear near the hook works in conjunction with it by setting the vertical upper limit of the feed roll mechanism's movement. You can also use it with an emery feed roll to lightly dress the inside edge of the knife as described in the Fortuna manual. I don't think it also has a spring, but it's a knob/rod. The other toward the front does have a spring and controls forward/rear tilt of the feed roll. The machine won't work without the spring attached to the hook - the feed roll mechanism will just fall to the bottom of its range of motion, which may hit the knife. As someone else said, the bolt on the top is probably for a lamp. Not sure what "small pin" you're referring to. If it's the dark line just to the left of the presser foot adjustments, that's just a wide joint between sheets of drywall. The previous tenant in my workshop space didn't do a great job building it out. Quote
Members katit Posted March 7, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2019 6 minutes ago, Nuttish said: The hook holds a spring attached to the bottom of the feed roll pivot. It allows you to adjust spring tension based on the thickness/stiffness of your material. The manuals describe how to do this. This particular machine has two additional adjustments on the feed roll mechanism that more or less match your description of knob/rod/spring, but they perform other functions than the purely vertical pressure adjustment the hook/spring controls. The one in the rear near the hook works in conjunction with it by setting the vertical upper limit of the feed roll mechanism's movement. You can also use it with an emery feed roll to lightly dress the inside edge of the knife as described in the Fortuna manual. I don't think it also has a spring, but it's a knob/rod. The other toward the front does have a spring and controls forward/rear tilt of the feed roll. The machine won't work without the spring attached to the hook - the feed roll mechanism will just fall to the bottom of its range of motion, which may hit the knife. As someone else said, the bolt on the top is probably for a lamp. Not sure what "small pin" you're referring to. If it's the dark line just to the left of the presser foot adjustments, that's just a wide joint between sheets of drywall. The previous tenant in my workshop space didn't do a great job building it out. See picture attached of the area where you have "hook". Doesn't look like anything missing. I guess different construction? "small pin" I'm talking about is about 1/2 tall 1/8 pin sticking out right behind bolt on top. Don't have it pictures. If that bolt is for lamp - maybe that pin is a guide pin for specialized lamp/accessory. That would be my explanation. Quote
Members jimi Posted March 7, 2019 Members Report Posted March 7, 2019 If you do not have a connection at the bottom of the arm for the light, then probably that pin you are talking about is for the wires of the lamp. on the Fortuna there is a din pin at the bottom of the arm for plugging in the lamp. The lamp is the same one that Matts has on his Fortuna splitter machine so i think yours would be similar, goosenecked. Quote
Members katit Posted March 7, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 7, 2019 Actually you can kind of see this pin sticking on back. And there is a hole in front (red arroows) And no, this is not original paint. I strip layers now and I see this greenish paint under this pale grenn/yellow. Quote
Members katit Posted March 10, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 10, 2019 (edited) Some progress. All parts to be painted already stripped/cleaned and mostly primed. I use rustoleum bare metal primer, I think it's got acid for etching and my experience with it great so far. All rusty parts is actually acid cleaned, next I will do final degrease/acid and nickel plating. Overall it's a progress. Worst/hardest part is over. Inside of a main body was a PITA to clean. Piecing back clean/new parts should be easy/fun. The only thing is that from a factory it was painted after partial assembly. I may need to do the same because assembly happens metal to metal. I am going to prime top parts of a skiver lightly to prevent rust and then do partial assembly. Final paint will be with Valspar paint mixed with hardener and sprayed. This color should be pretty good match. I used this paint before and it dries very hard, has good gloss and very hardy. I may need to do some bondo on top/front of machine. There was about 1/16-1/32 from a factory to make it smooth/flat. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNV5UU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Edited March 10, 2019 by katit Quote
Members katit Posted March 14, 2019 Author Members Report Posted March 14, 2019 Nickel plating is a failure so far. I don't get even plating on parts. Corners/etc get plated and then it burns. And it's very slow. If someone got experience/knowledge please chime in. My current understanding is that I need to copper-plate first in order for nickel plating to "stick". Metal used for parts is not very friendly. Quote
Members DanishMan Posted March 14, 2019 Members Report Posted March 14, 2019 Hi Katit Could you please give me update, on which parts you need. Brgds DanishMan Quote
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