How do I sew some heavy webbing without a big sewing machine?

[brmax]

I don't believe you want to use a cutting tip needle, rather a round point in my opinion.

This webbing is a thickness ? may I ask. In many Upholstery shops there is not a heavy machine stitcher ( i think I can easily say that on this site). So a standard 46, 69, 92 size thread is typical upholstery.

 I do understand a lot use to, and still do use 138 in outdoor products. This size many times in the " outdoor or marine products was because it lasted longer" and respectfully not actually needed for the strength. To address this the newer special threads are the king in marine and outdoor 24/7 weather.

I think adhesive could be a standard in bolstering strength using types, made for such environments your in.

 

good day

Floyd

[Gymnast]

32 minutes ago, brmax said:

I don't believe you want to use a cutting tip needle, rather a round point in my opinion.

This webbing is a thickness ? may I ask. In many Upholstery shops there is not a heavy machine stitcher ( i think I can easily say that on this site). So a standard 46, 69, 92 size thread is typical upholstery.

 I do understand a lot use to, and still do use 138 in outdoor products. This size many times in the " outdoor or marine products was because it lasted longer" and respectfully not actually needed for the strength. To address this the newer special threads are the king in marine and outdoor 24/7 weather.

I think adhesive could be a standard in bolstering strength using types, made for such environments your in.

 

good day

Floyd

I agree with you, Floyd. Yes I like the round point needle and dislike the cutting point. i agree, that a typical upholstery shop do not handle heavy threads. But a few do it - I know one making leather furniture, and he uses about V277 (tex 270). Do you have any references on using adhesives on webbing?

[Gymnast]

1 hour ago, Tejas said:

Here is a link to an article on hand sewing webbing. As for strength of the union, several parallel stretch lines orthogonal to the edge of the webbing is apparently the strongest. Climbing webbing is sewed that way,

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_52/features/Is-Hand-stitched-Nylon-Webbing-Strong-Enough_11663-1.html

 

It is a very interesting link. I agree, that the key to understanding the strenght of these safety webbings and sewing on them is how the elongation of the materials will influence the stitching. With kernmantel ropes, the slipping between core and mantel is also a an important issue. I my case for the sewing it is not directly for high risk purposes and investigating the limits.

Do you know these Guys in the practical-sailor have made a report with more detailed results presented?

I will reference some other links with similar tests on sewing and knots:

This is a forum thread discussing hand stitching on ropes: http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/documenting-my-hand-sewn-eye-process.24769/

I also did find some tests reported here: http://electricant.net/projects/testing/testing.htm

Evans Starzinger did some test. Evans did publish several test on his (and his wifes) website, but this site is now active anymore. But the information is still to be found on the web.archive.org: https://web.archive.org/web/20160715154948/http://www.bethandevans.com:80/load.htm 

Some of the same test and some more discussions ot these tests to be found on this sailors forum thread:

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/154025-ropeknotsplice-load-testing/&

He did also reference the study for the parachute webbing solutions - perhaps this picture is form this study:
 

 

 

[Gymnast]

I did the stitching now with a green polyester thread at about tex 370.  I tried saddle stitch with double thread and two needles. It makes 4 double thread to hold each stich. Then I tried using the sewing awl. Due to the 180 deg. turn in the lock stich the breaking strength is known to be reduced to 75 %. So it will be like 1.5 thread strenght each stitch. So the saddle stich this way will be 2.7 times stronger each stich.

But I had difficulty in using the saddle stich. I used an awl to make way for the needles. But it was also a problem to avoid penetrate the other thread in the hole. So I tried to keep a part of needle 2 in the hole when the first needle is pushed and pulled through. An expirienced stitcher should be able to make it faster than I am. Therefore I ended up in using the sewing awl for most of the stiching, because it was so much faster for me to Work with.

The D ring is supposed to handle a pull in all kinds of directions.

 

[Dwight]

Gymnast, . . . I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to do there, . . . but that conglomeration is certainly not safe for any kind of gymnastic activity more than perhaps attaching a rolled up exercise mat to it.

You need to seek some professional advice from people and companies who make the product you are trying to invent.  

The D ring alone being sawn in the back, . . . will come apart under a not very severe load.

Do not trust that rig to any human being, . . . trusting it for life or limb protection.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Gymnast]

Dwight - thanks for your reply.

I can assure you, that this application cannot be compared to climbing equipment or safety harness. And the gymnastics here have nothing to do with high flying gymnastics like on uneven bars. This sample is for experimental use and for verification pull tests. You do want equipment to last for some time and have the strengt with needed safety margins.

Anyway, I have seen professionel harness used for gymnastics, with high uneven loads on single seams, that easely will start to unravel. For such more safety related applications it is always evident, that you inspect the equipment on a regular basis.

[Tejas]

Here is a very recent article on sewing webbing.

https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-Webbing-Loops

 

[Gymnast]

1 hour ago, Tejas said:

Here is a very recent article on sewing webbing.

https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-Webbing-Loops

 

Thanks for report from Sailrite. I do not think, that Sailrite did tests on the recommended patterns from the previous reports on the subject. The Sailrite diamond and W patterns are not the same, because Sailrite added some stitching accross the webbing at each end. I think these added parts actually destoyes the strength, because they will take up much more force than will happen in a pure diamond og W pattern.

[Gymnast]

18 hours ago, Tejas said:

Here is a very recent article on sewing webbing.

https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-Webbing-Loops

 

When I look at the video, it seems to me, that the tests are made on sewn eyes in webbing. It is actually much different than end to end connections of webbing, which are normally used in slings for climbing or lifting applications. Do you see the same as me?

However, you will normally require some company with a good insurance policy to make such slings.