How do I?

[Chipperi]

OK... I haven't touched a piece of leather since my scouting days about 13 years ago. Being rusty I have a heap of questions for you guys.

I want to try my hand at making some custom belts and holsters, I can make some nice stuff but my problem is getting it to look nice without looking amateur.

So question:

1: can I sew and mold (bone) after dying to keep the contrast of the white stitches, without damaging the finish?

2: Gun belts at least good ones are double thickness, what is a good adhesive and technique to glue the two together before stitching?

3: Kinda worried about the dye bleeding against skin especially on IWB holsters. What is the best for against skin wear? dyes or maybe flax or linseed oil?

4: what are some of the best sources for 8-9oz vegetable tanned tooling leather, Tandy seems to have a monopoly but they are a middleman, I cant seem to google up any tanneries to buy wholesale.

I am sure I will think of more

Thanks

[Spencer G]

Even though I'm not that far past amateur myself, I'll see if I can help a bit.

#1: I would imagine that it depends what kind of finish you use, but I've not had a problem with this as long as you let it dry thoroughly. Although, I have had an issue with the Fiebing's black and dark brown dyes getting a kind of greenish sheen when it dries. I don't know why this happens, but if you use Tan-Kote as a base layer, it seems to help.

#2: Rubber cement is what most people use, I just apply it liberally to both sides and then clamp them together between a board and a my work bench.

#3: This also shouldn't be a problem especially if you put Tan-Kote or Neat-Lac as a final finish.

#4: I get my leather from Weaver who are significantly cheaper than Tandy, but you do need a sales tax licence to order from them. They have great customer service, and are fairly quick in shipping orders.

Hope I was of some assistance, even if it is a bit like the blind leading the blind.

Spencer

[Billsotx]

Contact Herman Oak (Google) ask for samples and make a choice of those swatches. They'll sell you two sides (talk to Julia) on your first buy, after that you'll have to buy 10 or more,most of us don't need that much at once, so go to their middle man Golinger in CA. Do your cut out, dye it, gouge or crease your choice, do your glue up with Barge, case it, shove the gun in and mold and bone, block your belt loops that's the sign of professional, the Barge glue won't turn loose when wet, once you've got the details in place let dry, I don't rush it but some folks force dry with low heat, next you can stitch with contrast stitching as you desire, and then clean up the edges and burnish them, and apply finish of your choice, I use neutral Kiwi because those lacquers dry out too much. I don't dye the inside but your customers may insist on it so give it to 'em. On the belt dye the outer strap including the edge no need to do inside (I say inside because I do a lot of flesh-out stuff), leave the inner natural, no dye, it's less likely to rub-off on clothes, split the billet and chaf edges to reduce bulk thru the buckle, glue up with Barge, crease or gouge layout your stitch line and stitch. Same process for support gear, mag, knife, flashlight pouches, cartridge slides, etc. Black dye is tough to work with, takes lots of rubbing after dying to remove residual especially if you slick your pieces, either way you'll find some rub-off and black may take numerous coats. Fiebings oil dye has worked best for me on HO veg tan. All that said, always test on scrap and don't expect one hide to be like the next. Like hands, cows are all the same but different! Too bad they didn't all pick the same parents ... lol! Hope this helps.

[electrathon]

OK... I haven't touched a piece of leather since my scouting days about 13 years ago. Being rusty I have a heap of questions for you guys.

I want to try my hand at making some custom belts and holsters, I can make some nice stuff but my problem is getting it to look nice without looking amateur.

The best advise I can give you on this is to do a handfull of small practice projects. Save the bigger, tougher ones for later when you are back into it.

2: Gun belts at least good ones are double thickness, what is a good adhesive and technique to glue the two together before stitching?

Barge cement, it is a rubber cement that really holds (Tandy has it).

4: what are some of the best sources for 8-9oz vegetable tanned tooling leather, Tandy seems to have a monopoly but they are a middleman, I cant seem to google up any tanneries to buy wholesale.

Herman Oakes seems to be the best leather of choice. Some of Tandy's leather really stinks by comparason. Hidecrafters and others sell it.

[Art]

There are two types of Barge generally available, General Purpose (contact) and Rubber. The rubber cement is designed to be somewhat temporary, the general purpose is a contact cement and is quite permanent. There is also Tanners bond from Fiebing that is a white glue that dries clear and is quite permanent and is much less volitle (little in the way of fumes). Barge can reavtivate with a heat gun, Tanners Bond does not. Chemicals can be confusing as they get trade names that come into common use. When we say Barge, we mostly mean General Purpose (or contact) cement. Herman Oak (HO) and Wickett and Craig are the only two vegetable tanneries left in the US. HO sells 10 skin minimums and W/C has an outlet for single skins. Siegel of California handles good leather from all over and has great variety and excellent quality, they have a Friday weekly special that is good (sign up on their website) and their skirting and sholders are very good.

Art

The best advise I can give you on this is to do a handfull of small practice projects. Save the bigger, tougher ones for later when you are back into it.

Barge cement, it is a rubber cement that really holds (Tandy has it).

Herman Oakes seems to be the best leather of choice. Some of Tandy's leather really stinks by comparason. Hidecrafters and others sell it.

[TimberWolf]

I buy from Wickett & Craig. Great customer service and no minimums.

http://www.wickett-craig.com Good Luck with your projects!

Edited August 21, 2007 by TimberWolf