Joshstrange

Black leather dye

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I'm sure this has been covered but nothing is working for me it concerns leaching dye black in particular.  I use fiebings alcohol based dye on veg tanned leather from tandy mostly.  I have tried the resolene many times but I can still rub dye out until it leaves natural colored leather spots, it just wont stop and I am getting frustrated.  Am I using to much dye does the leather I'm using just suck that bad.  What advise do you fine folks have for me.  Thank you.

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I’ve had rub off but never been able to see natural color. Sounds like the dye isn’t soaking in. Try using deglazer on a small piece and see if the dye soaks into the leather then. Some Tandy leather has a “coating” on the top to make it look better. 

Edited by Mattsbagger

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G'Day,

I had the same problem with Raven Oil years ago when I first started leatherwork. No matter how many coats of sealer I put on  the dye still came though. 

But, I know this won't be of any help to you , being in another part of the world, but this is what I use:

https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/DYE1Lw/Birdsall-Leather-dye-1Ltr/pd.php

and this is the sealer:

https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/DTC/Top-Coat-Leather-Finish/pd.php

I don't put too much sealer on as it can look a bit ' streaky' , and will buff up a little. I have also used Supa Shene from Tandy  for a deeper shine. Works fine. 

The dye is mostly water based but with some alcohol  in it  for drying purposes. I've had no problems since I discovered it,   and that was  nearly 15 years ago.  I have also put it through a spray gun  , and an air brush. 

Hope this helps, even just a little bit  :)

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1 hour ago, Handstitched said:

G'Day,

I had the same problem with Raven Oil years ago when I first started leatherwork. No matter how many coats of sealer I put on  the dye still came though. 

But, I know this won't be of any help to you , being in another part of the world, but this is what I use:

https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/DYE1Lw/Birdsall-Leather-dye-1Ltr/pd.php

and this is the sealer:

https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/DTC/Top-Coat-Leather-Finish/pd.php

I don't put too much sealer on as it can look a bit ' streaky' , and will buff up a little. I have also used Supa Shene from Tandy  for a deeper shine. Works fine. 

The dye is mostly water based but with some alcohol  in it  for drying purposes. I've had no problems since I discovered it,   and that was  nearly 15 years ago.  I have also put it through a spray gun  , and an air brush. 

Hope this helps, even just a little bit  :)

Handstitched thank you for your help but you are right the freight is 40 bucks to the US so not really a great option.

1 hour ago, Mattsbagger said:

I’ve had rub off but never been able to see natural color. Sounds like the dye isn’t soaking in. Try using deglazer on a small piece and see if the dye soaks into the leather then. Some Tandy leather has a “coating” on the top to make it look better. 

Mattsbagger I may try that i just switched to using only Herman oak I havent been impressed with tandy leather I just have a little left of the tandy stuff so ill either stop using black dye or get some of that deglazer.  Thanks for the advise. 

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I don’t use Tandy leather either. I use Pro Dye from Fiebings and Wickett and Craig. Even when I did use Tandy I never had what you’ve been having.

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For the last few years, . . . I have used Tandy leather pretty much for everything, . . . they are physically close, and I can see and feel what I am getting.

AND, . . . I use feibings oil dye exclusively as well.

All my projects get "created" first and dyed later, . . . but first they all get a light coating of neatsfoot oil and at least 24 hours hanging in the shop so the oil can distribute itself evenly thru the product.  Oil is only put on with a cheap bristle hair brush, . . . one coat, . . . it is put on evenly all over, . . . not streaks.

THEN, . . . the dye is poured into a pan, . . . having been 1 to 1 reduced with feibings dye reducer, . . . and the product is dipped into the pan, . . . dip dying is what I call it, . . . then it is held flat in my hand until I can see most of the pools on the surface of the product have all disappeared.  If it takes over 15 seconds or so, . . . I take a paper towel and wipe off the excess.

Belts are laid on their edge (bottom edge) on a piece of cardboard to dry, . . .  holsters, cell phone cases, knife sheaths are hung up to dry, . . . at least 24 hours and 48 if I'm not on a deadline with the product.

Take a terrycloth towel then, . . . and briskly rub whatever the product is, . . . looking for loose pigment to come off, . . . and it seems for some unknown reason that black will come off, and off, and off for several minutes.  I keep at it until no more dye pigment comes off.  (you should see some of the towels I have, . . . ugly !!)

The final process is the resolene, . . . cut 1 to 1 with clean water, . . . brushed on with a cheap 1 inch bristle brush bought from Harbor Freight.

I have not had any dye rub off in years using this process.

May God bless,

Dwight

 

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I've used veg-tan leather from a variety of sources...Tandy, W&C, HO, misc import hides that were on sale, etc, etc. Like Dwight, I exclusively use Fiebings Pro Oil dye (reduced)...applied with either daubers, lambs wool or dipped depending upon the size/scope/sequence of the project. When using Black, I try to work in a "clean area"...for some reason, that color tends to migrate or create little splashes all over my other work area/pieces if I'm not very careful when working with it. After dyeing, the usual rub-down (similar to Dwight's method via dedicated rags just for this purpose)...then final finish (Resolene 50/50).  No rub-off experienced here as you are describing :unsure:

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Thanks for the replies.  I found a suggestion to mix the resolene with water 50/50 and letting it dry a couple hours and applying more for 2 0r 3 coats so i tried that and it made a world of difference so glad i can go back to using black dye.  Thanks for all your help.

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