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nokiddin

Wallet help

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Hey all.  

Hoping to get a little help with wallets. 

I took a stab at a wallet interior and I don't think it turned out so well.  I made the interior the same length as the exterior, and when it's closed, it bunches up on the side that isn't stitched (see pics). The card slots are fairly close together so they may be binding when the wallet is closed.  

So I'm wondering, does the exterior need to be longer than the interior, with a little slack left in the fold? I may need to make my wallets a little bigger. This one is 3 by 8.

Am I just using the wrong leather for the interior? I'm using a lining leather. 

It does look a little better with some cards in the slot, so it's this just the way it is supposed to look? 

 

Thanks in advance for your help! 

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My attempt at a wallet was not worth showing, but I do know you need to make your outer slightly longer than your inner. I think its about 6mm - 10mm (1/4" - 3/8") longer for the outer.

This will usually not allow your finished wallet to lay flat when opened, but its not real far off.

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Yes it's correct. The easiest way to determine the length of your next wallet. Make your interior and cut the leather for your exterior to long. Fold them together, and leave a gap (Otherwise it's going to be a problem when you put your bills in the bill compartment. And you can make a mark where to cut.

You want it too look something like this when folded.

1483991268_Skrmklipp.thumb.JPG.3d7913386b5250b392c96cb46cd99e11.JPG

Edited by Danne

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6 minutes ago, nokiddin said:

Thanks for quick reply! 

Love this forum 

 

 

Also, you can't stitch it in the middle of the bottom part. I have not picture of this. But googled

3187_alt2.jpg

 

Edited by Danne

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I bought a pattern that measures about 3.25" x 9" and the interior is 3.25" x 8.56".  So roughly 7/16" shorter. Maybe those dimensions will help you or give you an idea. Also the middle has about 7/8" spacing without any stitching.

 

-Bryan

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@nokiddin Hi.  I see your are from the Winnipeg area according to your IP address.  You might like to add your location to your profile.

Here are a couple wallet liner patterns that have a piece in the middle that adjusts as you open wallet flat and when folded.  I don't recall where I collected them from so can't credit the originator. Probably found them here on Leatherworker.net.  I trace the pattern onto a manila file folder and cut it out, then assemble it (with staples) to make sure the parts fit and operate correctly.  You may need to change the distance between the slots and the length of the tabs that fit into the slots.  Once I'm sure of the dimensions and fit, I trace onto pigskin.  I find pigskin thin enough and quite durable for wallet liners.

Tom

Walletpatterns.pdf

Liner_photo.pdf

 

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You can visit Make Supply's website for some free templates.  You will notice the "outers" are bigger.  There are tons of threads on this forum that deal with wallets.  Search around to see examples and issues that others are having or have asked for advice about.

Yes, the inner bits have to be smaller to allow for the outer (wallet back) layer to fold.  It really varies depending upon thickness.  That is a combination of factors, number of pockets, whether you cut them in "T" style to avoid bulk, thickness of leather, etc.  So every one is different.  Having said that, I would say 3/8" at a minimum and probably 1/2" or so on the high side.  Any more than that and the outer piece gets a bit "sloppy" I think.

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I made wallets for YEARS with the innies about 1/4" shorter (lengthwise) than the outies.  Leaves a slight bend in it when it's open - doesn't go completely flat (which, you wouldn't want anyway).  And you absolutely can (and I absolutely DO) sew through the middle -- all the way around back to the starting point.  I've always thought it looked stupid with that little patch between the stitching.  Looks lazy - like the maker just couldn't be bothered with an extra dozen or so stitches.

Long as this has come up, might as well say here that this is the same thing that happens with lined belts.  The thicker the inside is, the longer the outside needs to be.  I sew all the way around those, too.

 

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2 hours ago, JLSleather said:

I made wallets for YEARS with the innies about 1/4" shorter (lengthwise) than the outies.  Leaves a slight bend in it when it's open - doesn't go completely flat (which, you wouldn't want anyway).  And you absolutely can (and I absolutely DO) sew through the middle -- all the way around back to the starting point.  I've always thought it looked stupid with that little patch between the stitching.  Looks lazy - like the maker just couldn't be bothered with an extra dozen or so stitches.

Long as this has come up, might as well say here that this is the same thing that happens with lined belts.  The thicker the inside is, the longer the outside needs to be.  I sew all the way around those, too.

 

I wrote "you can't stitch it in the middle of the bottom part." and I should have expressed it a little different. I haven't made a construction where I stitch the inner section all the way, but I do stitch my lining (which is shorter) all the way both glued around large curves and tight curved without glue in the middle (Except edges) And depending on the leather weights used by nokiddin it would require different length on the inner section, If he doesn't stitch the middle part it's easier in my opinion.

Btw, do you have a picture of your wallet stitched all the way, it's not so common so hard to find when I Google.

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1 hour ago, Danne said:

Btw, do you have a picture of your wallet stitched all the way

Hello Danne, I do some wallets also and to tell you the truth i have not made any the way you are talking about. there is another way which i got from wallet i was given when i was 16 yrs old (i am now 52) it has long fallen apart because i packed it too much Lol.... and have found it to be a nice way to do it. here are some pictures.

20190409_185821.thumb.jpg.04b55d44efef6c8de5f2eaa2a1e53e60.jpg20190409_185906.thumb.jpg.9a7b88f9354a8dfa323a3afaec4e30b0.jpg20190409_185946.jpg.2a1269ad38b3e8406308c9f532cbc36d.jpg20190409_185957.jpg.e019feb4deaf6e55b888c67d9d6060da.jpg20190409_190003.jpg.d41716e14914956456455eb6e5c43b8b.jpg

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6 minutes ago, jimi said:

Hello Danne, I do some wallets also and to tell you the truth i have not made any the way you are talking about. there is another way which i got from wallet i was given when i was 16 yrs old (i am now 52) it has long fallen apart because i packed it too much Lol.... and have found it to be a nice way to do it. here are some pictures.

20190409_185821.thumb.jpg.04b55d44efef6c8de5f2eaa2a1e53e60.jpg20190409_185906.thumb.jpg.9a7b88f9354a8dfa323a3afaec4e30b0.jpg20190409_185946.jpg.2a1269ad38b3e8406308c9f532cbc36d.jpg20190409_185957.jpg.e019feb4deaf6e55b888c67d9d6060da.jpg20190409_190003.jpg.d41716e14914956456455eb6e5c43b8b.jpg

20190409_190035.jpg.2ad489debcbd949a3e3aa6afeebdaec8.jpg

20190409_190050.jpg

20190409_190104.jpg

20190409_190137.jpg

20190409_190148.jpg

Really nice wallets. The Patina on the first wallet is beautiful.

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This is the parts for the wallet excluding the lining for the pockets etc.. the lining i use is thin and has a pvc or something like coating on one side.you could also line the note pocket. the white cardboard resembles a small piece of lining cut,glued and sewn on which later joins over on the right hand side inside the hidden pocket and sewn together with the right side when the edge is folded, whether it be the symmetrical type or not. (you can see this small tab in one of the pictures inside the pocket)

20190409_190837.thumb.jpg.9602b3e58faa0e7b03d42472325f1ee3.jpg20190409_191145.jpg.fbfe9fd50ce88104dad9259dc599925e.jpg

Edited by jimi

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7 minutes ago, Danne said:

Really nice wallets. The Patina on the first wallet is beautiful.

Thank you, yes this is what they look like after a few months-1yr. they are made from Veg tan horse leather.

So yes we can have a wallet lay flat, why not guys....:lol:

Edited by jimi

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When the small strip of lining is getting glued before stitching i usually bend the wallet backwards then snip it, that way it is a little longer on the inside allowing for bulk afterwards. (just in case)

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Can you send me pics of what you are talking about; when you say that you bend the wallet backwards and snap it. I won't have a snap on mine; I'm sure I can figure something out for that when it comes time. Ya, I was wandering how I was going to account for the bulk of my cards, and cash. I would appreciate it if you could send me a photo of how to just that; if so, thanks!

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21 hours ago, NoBody8835 said:

Can you send me pics of what you are talking about; when you say that you bend the wallet backwards and snap it. I won't have a snap on mine; I'm sure I can figure something out for that when it comes time. Ya, I was wandering how I was going to account for the bulk of my cards, and cash. I would appreciate it if you could send me a photo of how to just that; if so, thanks!

You realize that this thread is over 4 years old?

 

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I own the original notetaker wallet, and it is perfect for me, except that having to fold and unfold cash is a hassle, has caused the stitching to rip out, and the in-use thickness is also greater with cash folded over. I'm considering buying the trifold notetaker wallet, and wondered how the ballistic cloth version is holding up over time, and if stretching of credit card pockets, etc., is a problem. The only apparent downside to the design of the trifold for me, is the added thickness of the front credit card flap. I.e., I get along fine with the two credit card slots in my original wallet, however I do have four cards in one of them, so the extra thickness of the flap on the trifold would be partially offset by this fact. (Note that I have no problem pulling out any of the four cards; I'm more about compactness.) Thanks.

Edited by Northmount
removed quote w/ spam link, member's PW compromised

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