Sig P365 n shark

[JLSleather]

Blue shark.  It's black, but the SPECIES is blue shark.  Know ... never mind .

Edited May 15, 2019 by JLSleather

[garypl]

Jeff - another nice holster.  Do you sew, then trim edges before you mold the holster to the gun?  

Thanks for all the good information and templates you provide.

Gary

[JLSleather]

Not sure i'm followin' yer question.  I cut the parts, glue the shark to the stiffener (4/5 oz tooling), then glue and sew those to the front panel, with some arch in it. 

Then glue, trim, punch slot, and sew the front section.  I sew it after it's already trimmed to match.

Then glue, trim, punch slot, and sew the "back end".  I sew it after it's already trimmed to match.

When I'm done sewing, dye the edge and burnish (first pass) before wet forming the holster. I hit the edges again when it's nearly dry, though depending on the  work load it sometimes gets away from me and i end up re-wetting the edges to burnish later.  Doesn't change the result one way or other, but hitting it while its "right" moisture content first time saves time in the end.

Maybe something in there answered your question ...  

[garypl]

The reason I asked is that your stitching looks so close to the edge.  I don’t feel comfortable stitching that close to the edge.  I try to leave an extra 1/8-1/4” and then trim to the stitch line after in stitch.  When I have tried to sew really close to the edge I have ended up with stitches that punched through the edge on the back side.  Guess I need more practice!

[JLSleather]

Oh, yeah - gotcha.  I have everything all done.. including edging .. before I sew the edges.  Once it's edged, THEN I mark the sewing line "a strong 1/8" in from the edges, including the edge of the slot (with the disclaimer that on some models I go a little wider from the slot ONLY, just found it fits the look of some models better).

You do have to watch when sewing with a machine that you don't get SUCKED DOWN IN the slot in the plate, which can result in that angled stitch.  I dn't get a lot of that, but I've had it happen so I know what you mean.  I USUALLY (again, I almost never say 'never') sew with the left toe and with the holster to the outside, so only that 1/8+" is over the slot.  This is due to the holster being a #curvedpanel - with a 50/50 you could easily put it to the inside, and then your issue is eliminated.  Or, you could sew and then trim

 

[JLSleather]

I didn't get a pic of the back of this one - in the box and gone. But this pic is the same P365, done the same way with the same pattern.

[garypl]

Got it now - I will give it a try your way and see if it works for me

[Scoutmom103]

Very Nice.  Thanks for all the great info.

[JLSleather]

11 hours ago, garypl said:

When I have tried to sew really close to the edge I have ended up with stitches that punched through the edge on the back side.  

I wonder if aguycould raise the feed dog just a tad and stop that?  I don't race around a holster - much slower than I go down the side of a belt - so I'm sure that helps.  The dog should be at or just above the plate when the needle enters.  If it's still below the plate, that could result in stitching angling toward the back edge. (note, in MN "aguycould" is one word).

[garypl]

1 minute ago, JLSleather said:

I wonder if aguycould raise the feed dog just a tad and stop that?  I don't race around a holster - much slower than I go down the side of a belt - so I'm sure that helps.  The dog should be at or just above the plate when the needle enters.  If it's still below the plate, that could result in stitching angling toward the back edge. (note, in MN "aguycould" is one word).

Thanks for the tip.  I am going to sew that holster today and I’ll check the feed dog height before I commit.  

On another subject, I left MN in 1986 to move to GA and I sure miss walleye fishing on Mille Lacs lake!