Toddo Report post Posted June 13, 2019 Here's my final sheath sewed onto the outside of the right side panel for the trail bag project. Front and back of sheath sponge wiped with no antique. And I remember now why I antiqued the side side panels to begin with even though there is no tooling on them. It's because I'll have a tooled design on the front of the bag so the entire front panel will be antiqued and so I had to antique the side panels also so the color would match over the entire bag. The sheath is just a touch darker. Not bad though. Here's the right and left side panels together. I got a LOT more to do finish the bag. I hope the dye job on the front panel comes out even. The front panel is huge. It's like 9 inches wide by around 3 feet long. It's gonna wrap around the side panel sewing tabs, come back around the top and hang down more than half way down the front of the bag. I hope the overlapping wipes with the sponge don't show dark sections on the overlaps. The Fiebings pro dye is oil dye so I "shouldn't" have a problem as long as the wipes are even and I don't let dye pool on top anywhere. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted June 13, 2019 On 6/7/2019 at 8:20 PM, TargetRockLeather said: @Bob Blea Interesting idea to use the baby wipes. I'll have to try that some time. I have tried spray on finish and it does seem to be the best way to avoid streaking/smearing on top of antiquing. I used Saddle Lac and that seems to work well. The thing I don't like about Saddle Lac is that it seals the leather completely which prevents conditioners such as neatsfoot oil from penetrating. I would prefer if years down the line someone will be able to oil the leather. Also it makes the piece look like plastic which isn't desirable in my opinion. I wonder if your approach works better. I put the WyoSheen on in very thin coats (usually two) and gives the leather some shine but it doesn't feel like plastic unless I get a lot on it. It does seal the leather up pretty well. It leaves it pretty water resistant but I think I've seen times where Neatsfoot oil has gotten through. I've been told by other leatherworkers they have oiled things after a lot of wear that have been sealed, but I suspect that only worked because the seal had worn off. I need to test it sometime. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robs456 Report post Posted June 13, 2019 40 minutes ago, Bob Blea said: Neatsfoot oil has gotten through. I've been told by other leatherworkers they have oiled things after a lot of wear that have been sealed, but I suspect that only worked because the seal had worn off. I need to test it sometime. Neatsfoot oil will go through anything! Ok, maybe not. But I once managed to get a finished piece (super sheen I think) stained by accident by neatsfoot oil, so another time when after finishing with Angelus finisher (by airbrush) I noticed that the piece was too stiff so I put a thick layer on top of it and had it on overnight. Then in the morning most of it was still there but enough had seeped through to make the piece pliable. Removing the left over neatsfoot oil took a while and a few rags but in the end it worked. The piece was black, and I didn't notice any dark(er) spots, but I wonder how a lighter piece would look... If this is all rambling and no sense please excuse me, I'm hopped up on Taurine and vitamin B...AKA energy drinks...dangerous things... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
