My old Durkopp is driving me up the wall!

[toxo]

Thanks Gymnast.

As I explained earlier, the lower disc would sometimes lock up solid and I couldn't see why so I dismantled it and then I realised the purpose of the adjuster that's fixed to the machine (I think the thread was getting behind it). Then I realised it was to adjust the position of the spring. I altered that and things were a lot better. That's when I switched to TKT20 thread and a 140 needle and tried it on the leather. The main reason for trying to persevere with the M60 is firstly because I have a lot of it (anyone wanna swap some?) and secondly because I wanted a contrasting colour for the bottom thread when I was playing with the tension. The TKT20 and TKT40 that I have are both white. I've ordered some TKT20 in another colour. This has been going on for a long time. I took it to two "repair" shops who said they couldn't do it. I've changed parts on it and every time something didn't work I had to get away from it until the enthusiasm came back. Now that I know (With the grateful help of you guys on here) it wasn't all in vain I'm really happy and can actually think about projects to do with it.

[Gymnast]

Good, that the machine works much better for you now.

I see now, that I did not read your text carefully about your change in thread size.

I do not have use for the M60 and hopefully you find some other guy able to use it.

[shoepatcher]

You cannot pull thread out from the hook area until the take up lever is at it's highest point.  That is when it free from the hook.  That is also when you want to lift the foot and pull your work out.

glenn

[toxo]

I'll watch that shoe but sometimes it locks up and I can't move the hand wheel either way.

[mikesc]

Sometimes you'll find it easier to remove your work just after the take up lever has reached it's highest point and it, and the needle are just beginning to come down again, when the take up lever has moved back down about a quarter to a half an inch..Seen a few machines like this, they lock up and the hand wheel has to be "rocked back by a gnat's smidgen, and then forwards, just a touch".

Probably means that the timing is "off" by a related gnat's smidgen..:)

But, if your machine is now stitching well then you may not want to get "fine tuning the timing" until you have had it running for a while and eased your way into feeling comfortable with it, making sure that the "race" is oiled each time that you run the machine also helps..People tend to forget that when doing the "oil all the holes and moving parts".

[toxo]

I think you've nailed it Mike. Just wanna get used to it now.

[Wizcrafts]

17 hours ago, toxo said:

I think you've nailed it Mike. Just wanna get used to it now.

The check spring travel limiter and position may help tune the snap out of the thread coming around the bobbin. The spring has to keep the top thread taut until the needle pierces the top of the material. How much longer it stays taut is up for experimentation. If your check spring mechanism has a little screw inside a curved slot, try moving the discs one way then the other. There will be a position that gives a little more slack in the top thread that should ease the tension going around the hook.

[Wishful]

Parts and possibly manuals are available for machines at manufacturer. I’ve had pretty good luck. https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/Support/parts/

[toxo]

Thanks guys. Appreciate all these little gems of information. This is the stuff the books don't tell you.