My old Durkopp is driving me up the wall!

[toxo]

You've done me again Mike! I've done just that a few times in the past. In fact I have an imgur account somewhere. (Don't think imgur does video)

Here's the one breaking M60 tread.

And then I dismantled the lower disc and had another fiddle. Things seemed to be better so I loaded up with TKT20 and a 140 needle and, hooray! I don't have to throw it away. Still a way to go with presser feet and tension and stitch length but I'm a lot happier now.

https://youtu.be/g5bU5A38NbI

 

[kgg]

Looking at your video I am wondering why you have your thread path through all the holes in the pin guide. I think you have threaded the thread pin guide incorrectly. You threaded from your spool of thread through the bottom hole in the thread pin guide up through all the holes too the top then onto the main top thread tensioner. I think the thread pin guide on your machine is the same or similar to the one used in a double needle machine, two threads with one thread pin guide. I think the way you have threaded the thread pin guide has added way to much top tension to your thread causing the thread to fray and break at the thread lever just past the main thread tensioner. I would try threading from your thread spool to the top hole in the thread pin guide and then through one more hole before going to the main thread tensioner.

kgg

[Constabulary]

Agree what kgg said AND you have not pulled the thread over the small hook (prong) in the tension unit  - see this Video. I mentioned the small hook in my post from June 27th.

 

Edited July 11, 2019 by Constabulary

[toxo]

Thanks guys.

kgg, haven't thought about that for a long time. Have seen vids threaded this way and started off with fewer holes but nothing seemed to work. Have since changed the whole tension unit so definitely will look at that again.

Constabulary, have been using the back hook since you told me about it but the thread  was still jumping out and snagging on the knurled knob. It only seemed to work properly after I fiddled with the adjuster thing in back of the tension unit. Maybe I did something wrong when installing it but there were times when it just wouldn't pull through at all even with next to no tension. That disc is still a complete mystery to me but at least it's working now. The bit when, after you finish sewing and pull the work away is still a battle sometimes and I rock the wheel and sometimes it 's free and sometimes it just won't free up. Is there a trick to this or is it just fine tuning?

Now I'm looking forward to playing with it.

Constabulary, do you happen to know the size of the shaft on the Jack motor. I have a 40mm pulley I can put on if it's 15mm.

[Gymnast]

I noticed, that you use M60 thread, and it is like tex 40 or tex 45. In your latest video you sew three layers of veg tan leather. I think your thread in general will be too thin for that, and I should use at least tex 70 (M40) to this kind of material. I think this thinner thread will be easier to break for materials like veg tan leather, because you need to have quite high thread tension to pull the lock into the leather.

I suppose you have checked the lower thread tension to be right and not too high.

Your video shows the thread to be damaged before breaking right behind the check spring. I should check the tensions discs and all the thread guides around it for any wear that may damage your thread on its way. It may also be the hole in the thread take-up. If you have got a dynamometer to measure thread tension you look for any anormalities in tension, when thread passes the tensioner and its surroundings. You may also feel tension variations by hand while pulling the thread there.

[toxo]

Thanks Gymnast.

As I explained earlier, the lower disc would sometimes lock up solid and I couldn't see why so I dismantled it and then I realised the purpose of the adjuster that's fixed to the machine (I think the thread was getting behind it). Then I realised it was to adjust the position of the spring. I altered that and things were a lot better. That's when I switched to TKT20 thread and a 140 needle and tried it on the leather. The main reason for trying to persevere with the M60 is firstly because I have a lot of it (anyone wanna swap some?) and secondly because I wanted a contrasting colour for the bottom thread when I was playing with the tension. The TKT20 and TKT40 that I have are both white. I've ordered some TKT20 in another colour. This has been going on for a long time. I took it to two "repair" shops who said they couldn't do it. I've changed parts on it and every time something didn't work I had to get away from it until the enthusiasm came back. Now that I know (With the grateful help of you guys on here) it wasn't all in vain I'm really happy and can actually think about projects to do with it.

[Gymnast]

Good, that the machine works much better for you now.

I see now, that I did not read your text carefully about your change in thread size.

I do not have use for the M60 and hopefully you find some other guy able to use it.

[shoepatcher]

You cannot pull thread out from the hook area until the take up lever is at it's highest point.  That is when it free from the hook.  That is also when you want to lift the foot and pull your work out.

glenn

[toxo]

I'll watch that shoe but sometimes it locks up and I can't move the hand wheel either way.

[mikesc]

Sometimes you'll find it easier to remove your work just after the take up lever has reached it's highest point and it, and the needle are just beginning to come down again, when the take up lever has moved back down about a quarter to a half an inch..Seen a few machines like this, they lock up and the hand wheel has to be "rocked back by a gnat's smidgen, and then forwards, just a touch".

Probably means that the timing is "off" by a related gnat's smidgen..:)

But, if your machine is now stitching well then you may not want to get "fine tuning the timing" until you have had it running for a while and eased your way into feeling comfortable with it, making sure that the "race" is oiled each time that you run the machine also helps..People tend to forget that when doing the "oil all the holes and moving parts".